With a refreshing change from recent new watch releases featuring cutting edge composite construction materials comes a new collection from the world’s oldest manufacturer of watches, Vacheron Constantin – the Métiers d’Art La Symbolique des Laques.

Preservation of Haute Horlogerie traditions, especially with regard to applied arts – enamelling, engraving and engine turning is an integral part of the philosophy of the Vacheron Constantin brand and a demonstration of this commitment is evident in the Métiers d’Art collections the latest of which, La Symbolique des Laques has just been unveiled.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Ensemble

The Symbolique des Laques will feature craftsmanship carried out outside Geneva, a first for the Métiers d’Art collection.  This will be “out-sourcing” at its most delicate, in the form of lacquer decoration carried out by the House of Zôhiko, Japan, experts in this craft since 1661.

Like its predecessor the “Les Masques” collection, La Symbolique des Laques will be a staged release, this time in a set of three new watches per year, each in a limited release of twenty for a period of three years, with each set depicting symbolic designs synonymous with Far East traditions.

A traditional Japanese lacquering technique will be used, a method which involves sprinkling gold or silver dust over still-wet lacquer, a sophisticated procedure known as “maki-e”.  The pieces in this exceptional collection will have lacquered scenes front and back framing Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin Calibre 1003, crafted in 14 carat white gold and appearing in its skeletonized form.

The Vacheron Constantin craftsmen were not entirely redundant on this project, the bevelling visible through the front and back sapphire crystals as expected will be of an unsurpassed quality.  Each piece will be presented in an elegantly rounded watchcase, each an individual mini masterpiece ……… and not a fragment of forged carbon in sight.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The folk at Hublot appear to have come over all lovey recently when the launch of the latest edition of the Big Bang series was announced!

Specially manufactured for St Valentine’s Day 2010, (and don’t forget it’s February 14th!)  the new piece is somewhat of a departure from the ‘typical’ Big Bang in that it is aimed (like Cupid’s arrow) directly at the fairer sex or the male collector whose sweetheart may be feeling a little overlooked in the watch department and whose conscience is pulling at his heartstrings.

The Hublot Big Bang in Red

The Hublot Big Bang in Red edition should surely tick that box. In keeping with the company’s Art of Fusion ethos, it is produced in a white ceramic and red composite resin 38mm case on a red alligator and natural rubber strap it is a dazzling affair indeed with it’s 126 diamonds on the steel bezel in particular catching the eye.

The watch features a quartz movement whose functions are; hours, minutes and seconds.

Featured on the Hublot site under ‘Novelties’, the Big Bang in Red further underlines the company’s fun, funky  – and no doubt opportunistic – approach to it’s place among watchmakers with it’s eye on the more youthful, sporty and funloving client.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Jaeger-LeCoultre made some ‘noise’ at the SIHH 2010, held in Geneva last week, when the company recalled one their past icons with the unveiling of not one, but two new Memovox models.

Originally debuted in the 1950s, the Memovox was a representation of a new period in history, where the austerity of the previous decade was finally set aside and bright new concepts were pushed to the fore, symbolising commerce, travel, modernity, style and futuristic technology.

Almost 60 years after the Memovox was introduced, the new models – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox and the Master Memovox International, or WorldTimer, are contemporary impressions of this classic timepiece yet both still radiate the styling of the era.

The Memovox watches do owe a nod of debt to their predecessor, as they  are fitted with the new and evolutionary calibre 956, a result of progressive development of the original calibre 812 over the years since it became the first automatic movement featuring an alarm function.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox is available in 18Kt pink gold or stainless steel 40mm case – the bezel a little broader around the domed crystal than the original, but still it’s heritage is unmistakable. The two crowns include one for setting the alarm arrow to the required time.

Released in a limited production of 250 pieces in 18Kt pink gold or 750 pieces in stainless steel, the Memovox International has at the centre of it’s dial a rotating disc divided into 12 sectors, each featuring two cities which are naturally separated by 12 hours, so providing the world time function.

Technical specification:

Master Memovox:-

Movement:
• mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 45-hour power reserve
• 268 parts
• 23 jewels
• 7.45 mm high

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds
• date, alarm

Dial:
• silvered with numerals and hour-markers

Hands:
• rhodium-plated or gold-plated

Case:
• ø 40 mm, thickness: 14 mm
• solid back with new engraved “MASTER CONTROL” logo
• water resistance: 5 atm

Strap:
• alligator leather with folding clasp

Reference numbers:
• Q1412430, 18-carat pink gold
• Q1418430, steel

Master Memovox International:-

Movement:
• mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand
• 28,800 vibrations per hour
• 45-hour power reserve
• 268 parts
• 23 jewels
• 7.45 mm high

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds
• date, alarm

Dial:
• black with numerals, hour-markers and transferred city names

Hands:
• rhodium-plated or gold-plated

Case:
• ø 40 mm, thickness: 14 mm
• solid back with new engraved “MASTER CONTROL” logo
• water resistance: 5 atm

Strap:
• alligator leather with folding clasp

Reference numbers:
• Q1412471, 18-carat pink gold
• Q1418471, steel

Popularity: 27% [?]

Among other amazing creations unveiled by A. Lange & Söhne at this year’s SIHH watch exhibition in Geneva was this beautiful Saxonia Annual Calendar.

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

Available in either pink or white gold 38.5mm case, this piece is certainly easy on the eye, due to the unfussy layout of the solid silver dial and the use of oxidized blued steel hands (or rhodiumized pink gold on the pink gold version). It features the familiar outsize date windows at the 12 o’clock positon with month and weekday displayed at the 3 and 9 respectively. The subsidiary seconds share the subdial at the 6 with the moonphase display, which according to the manufacture will require no correction for 122 years! Must make a date in my diary….

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

Power is delivered from the L085.1 SAX-0-MAT, fully in-house self-winding movement which also features the A. Lange Zero Reset function – allows time to be accurately set by zeroing the small seconds when correcting the minutes.

A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Annual Calendar Technical specification

Movement: Lange manufacture calibre L085.1 SAX-0-MAT, self-winding, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards and largely decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver with integrated three-quarter rotor in 21-carat gold and centrifugal mass in platinum, reversing and reduction gear with four ball bearings; balance cock engraved by hand

No. of movement parts: 476

No. of jewels: 43

Escapement: Lever escapement

Oscillation system: Shock-resistant glucydur screw balance, Nivarox balance spring, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, whiplash precision index adjuster with patented beat adjustment mechanism

Power reserve: 46 hours when fully wound

Functions: Time indication with hours and minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop seconds and ZERO-RESET function, annual calendar with patented outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays

Operating elements: Crown for winding the watch and setting the time, one recessed push piece each to advance the outsize date, day-of-week, month, and moon-phase displays

Case dimensions: Diameter: 38.5 millimeters; height: 9.8 millimeters

Movement dimensions: Diameter: 30.4 millimeters; height: 5.4 millimeters

References: 330.026, 330.032

Case: White gold Pink gold

Dial: Solid silver, argenté Solid silver, argenté

Hands: Blued steel Rhodiumed pink gold; blued steel

Glass and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap and Lange prong buckle in solid white or pink gold

Popularity: 28% [?]

I was really impressed with IWC’s offerings on display at SIHH this week in Geneva. I wrote about the Da Vinci Chrono Ceramic already and indeed have gone back to admire it some more. Very cool watches seem to be the IWC mantra this time round, although many would argue that they are never too far away from the mark in creating desirable watches.

Another series to have been ‘breathed on’ for this years show by the designers at Schaffhausen is the Portuguese. Already a classic, no-frills mainstay of the IWC range, this time in the revisited Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph, the company have achieved another winning combination of progressive styling while yet not straying too far from unmistakable profile and layout of the Portuguese model.

The IWC Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph

Available in a choice of rose gold (with dark bronze dial) or stainless steel (with silver dial) 45.5mm cases, the new piece has a sporty personality, emphasised by being mounted on a black natural rubber strap with tang buckle, the red chrono seconds and by the ‘T’- chrono pushers.

The dial maintains that ‘widescreen’ appearance which has been synonymous with the model. It’s large applied arabic numerals ensure that it is a clear and legible display. As in the aforementioned Da Vinci, the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph features the chrono minutes and hours sharing the same subdial at the 12 o’clock position. The date is at 3, small seconds subdial at the 6.

The Calibre 89360 self-winding movement can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.

I’m not on the IWC payroll, so I should maybe leave our readers to decide for yourselves about the new models.

The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Ref. IW3902 features:

Chronograph with IWC-manufactured automatic movement and IWC’s double-pawl winding, flyback function, stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds, hour and minute counters combined in a single subdial at 12 o’clock, date display, small hacking seconds, crown protection

Movement:
Calibre: 89360 automatic self-winding
Beats: 28,800/h
Jewels: 40
Power reserve: 68 h

Case
Materials: watch in stainless steel with silver-plated dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in stainless steel with black dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in 18 ct red gold with slate-colored dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold

Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides

Back: see-through sapphire-glass back

Crown: screw-in

Water-resistant: 6 bar

Diameter: 45.4mm

Height: 14.5mm

Popularity: 23% [?]

Officine Panerai presented a number of new pieces at SIHH in Palexpo, Geneva this week. Among them, one of my favourites, the Officine Panerai Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 Giorni – PAM00339.

Officine Panerai Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 Giorni PAM00339

Released in a limited edition of just 1000 examples, this Radiomir exudes classic Panerai simplicity, evoking the memory of early models and mounted on a vintage leather hand-stitched strap, yet it marks a new milestone in materials technology. The silky 47mm case is constructed in a remarkable composite, new to watchmaking and developed by Panerai, which is harder than stainless steel, titanium and even conventional ceramics. Composed of ceramisised aluminium, the material is the result of an elaborate electrochemical process and is lighter and more durable than any other used by the manufacture to date.

The Militaire models have historically been official issue to the Italian Navy since the 1940s and nowadays only appear in limited numbers at intervals of several years, making them highly sought after and collectable.

The signature sandwich dial, a deep brown like the case, features small seconds at the 9 o’clock position and the 8 Giorni Brevatto legend at the 3, denoting the eight-day power reserve available from the fully in-house P.2002/7 Calibre manual-wound mechanical movement.

As the pursuit for futuristic materials remorselessly pushes forward, it is really nice to see a tasteful application of old and new technology as one, and Panerai have nailed it with the Radiomir Composite Marina Militare 8 Giorni.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Audemars Piguet have today revealed the latest additions to the iconic Royal Oak Offshore series at the SIHH Geneva. The Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Collection represents the manufacture’s dexterity in working with forged carbon and ceramic as base material for the watches, and the collection comprises three limited edition models which offer an all-carbon option (1750 pieces)  as well as variations with rose gold (650) and platinum (75) detail.

Forged carbon is exclusively used by Audemars Piguet and it is they who have developed all aspects of working with the material, from the manufacturing procedures through to the tooling required. The resulting pieces are therefore very light, extremely durable and, in keeping the Royal Oak Offshore family philosophy, distinctive watches.

Each model in the Grand Prix Collection features details unique to this edition and all draw their styling from various  elements otherwise associated with Grand Prix race cars, but across the collection you will find references to air intakes, ventilated brake discs, gear ratios, instumentation, wheel rims and even aerodynamic cues. This detailing makes the collection a little different in that it offers the collector more than a revision of existing case/crown/pusher and dial combinations, with many features not seen on any other Royal Oak Offshore model.

As is the expectation from Audemars Piguet, the degree of finishing and attention to the most miniscule detail on these watches is truly incredible – and will no doubt help the manufacture account for the as yet unannounced prices.

Powered by the tried and tested 3126/3840 selfwinding chronograph movement and housed in a 44mm case, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix Collection is sure to become a talking point on the watch forums in the coming days, weeks and months.

26290IO.OO.A001VE.01

Forged carbon case, forged carbon and black ceramic bezel, blackened titanium crown, black ceramic and titanium pushpieces, titanium pushpiece guards, titanium exhibition case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal.

Limited edition of 1750

26290RO.OO.A001VE.01

18-carat pink gold case, forged carbon and black ceramic bezel, pink gold crown, black ceramic and pink gold pushpieces, carbon pushpiece guards, pink gold exhibition case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal.

Limited edition of 650

26290PO.OO.A001VE.01

950 platinum, forged carbon and black ceramic bezel, white gold crown, black ceramic and white gold pushpieces, carbon pushpiece guards, platinum exhibition case-back fitted with a sapphire crystal.

Limited edition of 75

*

Technical specification (Courtesy of Audemars Piguet):

Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840 selfwinding
Total diameter: 29.94 mm (131/4 lignes)
Casing diameter: 26 mm
Thickness: 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and flat balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts meticulously decorated; mainplate circular-grained; bridges rhodium-plated, chamfered, snailed and adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif. Diamond-polished jewel sinks; wheels featuring chamfered arms and diamond-polished sinks, chamfered screw slots
22-carat gold oscillating weight partially blackened and decorated with two scoops

Cases
Diameter: 44 mm
Thickness: 15.65 mm
Case-back engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix – Limited Edition
Water resistance: 100 m

Dials
Black with central red negative-printed exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif in eloxed aluminium, anthracite small seconds counter (at 12 o’clock), silvered and yellow 30-minute counter (at 9 o‘clock), silvered and black 12-hour counter (at 6 o’clock), yellow eloxed aluminium flange

Anthracite with central black negative-printed exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif in eloxed aluminium, anthracite small seconds counter (at 12 o’clock), silvered and yellow 30-minute counter (at 9 o‘clock), silvered and black 12-hour counter (at 6 o’clock), black eloxed aluminium flange

Black with central blue negative-printed exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif in eloxed aluminium, anthracite small seconds counter (at 12 o’clock), black and red 30-minute counter (at 9 o‘clock), silvered and black 12-hour counter (at 6 o’clock), silvered aluminium flange

White gold hour-markers with luminescent coating

Openworked and luminescent hour and minute hands in white or pink gold

Straps
Black calfskin and alcantara, hand-sewn with alcantara inserts and edges, pin buckle in beadblasted titanium, or 18-carat pink gold or 950 platinum.

Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Flange with tachometric scale
Date

Popularity: 11% [?]

The JeanRichard manufacture have removed the covers from another new model at the SIHH exhibition in Geneva this week.

The JeanRichard Aquascope is a tribute to their own 1960s model and incorporates styling cues drawn from the era particularly with the square, cushion-shaped (or tonneau) case which contrasts the round dial. The polished and satin-finished 44.5mm x 40mm stainless steel case sits on an unusual ‘structured’ (or ridged) calfskin leather strap which in itself contributes to the overall styling and adds to the watch’s overall robust, rugged appearance.

The JeanRichard Aquascope

Notable features include a bidirectional rotating bezel, which as protection against accidental movement, can only be moved by using the screw-in corrector crown at the 9 o’clock position. Large luminous indices and hands make for a clearly legible display in poor light and indeed look quite the part in good light too!

The Aquascope is powered by the JR1000 calibre in-house movement and further extends the use of this new movement which has been incorporated across the range of JeanRichard models

As JeanRichard continue to build on their status as a manufacture in their own right, the designers are giving the brand a range of interesting models in which to showcase their technical abilities.

The JeanRichard Aquascope is certainly a handsome-looking watch, and being water resistant to 300m is a useful instrument too for the occasional owner who will take it with them as they go diving. But I imagine that for most folk, this is the only piece of diving gear you’ll need!

Popularity: 5% [?]

IWC today revealed their newest addition to the successful DaVinci series, using the occasion of the 2010 SIHH exhibiton in Geneva to debut the piece.

The IWC DaVinci Chronograph at the centre of attention certainly caused a stir among the many visitors as they sought to get a close-up look at the first IWC piece to use a ceramic case since 1986 when the marque utilized the same zirconium oxide ceramic in a release of DaVinci timepieces. Due to the level of difficulty associated with working with the material at the time, production of these watches was in small numbers.

However, modern fabrication techniques available today means that the restrictions on production are no longer a factor and IWC say that the watch will be available in unlimited numbers, which is probably as well because the DaVinci Chronograph Ceramic is a very attractive piece indeed and demand should be strong.

The IWC DaVinci Chronograph Ceramic IW3766

Complimenting the 44.35mm black ceramic case, IWC have used ultra-hard grade 5 titanium for the bezel, caseback, crown and pushers resulting in a hard-wearing scratch-resistant watch which has a silky feel on the wrist.

Powered by the IWC Calibre 89360 automatic movement, the functions of the watch include chrono hours and minutes sharing the subdial at the 12 o’clock position, small seconds and date at the 6 and flyback chrono seconds.

Popularity: 17% [?]

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2010 officially opened for business in the Palexpo, Geneva on the 18th January, running until the 22nd of the month.

This year’s proceedings mark the 20th anniversary of the event and is the second consecutive year in it’s new slot in January, a move (from springtime) which has been hailed all round as a masterstroke – enabling the exhibiting manufacturers of fine watches to showcase their new season collections at the start of the year.

Although not completely banished, the massing grey clouds of global recession which were prevalent twelve months ago would appear to have thinned somewhat recently and have been replaced by a cautious optimism as the industry picks itself up and gets moving again following a stark 2009.

The SIHH has truly forged it’s place in the horologic calendar, attracting this year 19 manufacturers – including newcomers Richard Mille and Greubel Forsey – as well as presenting a collection of antique timepieces, sympathetically restored by Parmigiani Fleurier and another collection of conceptual watch photography in two exclusive exhibitions.

Popularity: 3% [?]

At a cocktail reception hosted by the charismatic Jean-Claude Biver on the shores of Lake Geneva over the weekend, the all-new relationship between his Hublot brand and the Alinghi Americas Cup team became official by the unveiling of the Hublot King Power Alinghi Limited Edition, itself based on the hugely successful Hublot Big Bang series.

The Hublot King Power Alinghi Limited Edition

Present at the launch, and recipient of piece number 1, was Ernesto Bertarelli, President of the successful Alinghi team  who later this year will defend the Americas Cup for Switzerland against US challengers Team BMW Oracle Racing in the 33rd running of the famous yacht race.

While it is always interesting to see the launch of new a piece, whether it is to one’s taste or otherwise, this occasion was significant in that it represented the beginning of a new era for both Team Alinghi and the Hublot brand, for previously the Alinghi name was closely associated with Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore editions, a relationship which expired along with it’s contracts mid 2009. With the signature pieces from both watchmakers being so competitively poised in adversity, one imagines that when the opportunity came around for JC Biver’s Hublot brand to pick up the torch left behind by Audemars Piguet, that he moved in fairly quickly (as is his way). Indeed the deal was agreed in outline within 24 hours of Biver and Bertarelli discussing the potential at the unveiling of the Alinghi 5 catamaran last year.

The Hublot King Power Alinghi

The new Hublot Big Bang King Power Alinghi is striking in that it’s part-skeletonised dial – beneath which beats the new in-house Hublot UNICO Calibre movement – leaves the impression that the chronograph counters appear to ‘hover’ independently between crystal and dial, a feature which is exacerbated by the Alinghi motif at the 9 o’clock position.

Crafted in ceramic and rubber, the watch symbolizes the mutual interest in design and materials shared by both Hublot and the Alinghi team. It will be produced in a limited release of 333 numbered pieces.

Popularity: 19% [?]

This year Corum will present two new Golden Bridge models, the Corum Miss Golden Bridge and the Golden Bridge 2010.  Both pieces honour the 30th Anniversary of the resplendent Golden Bridge, first launched in 1980 and perhaps the most elegant of Corum’s Four Pillars.

The Corum Miss Golden Bridge

The Miss Golden Bridge is unusual in that it is a designated ladies watch design, previous releases have been irresistible but unattainable Haute Joaillerie editions or down-sized versions of the mens Golden Bridge.  The baguette movement, the ultra slim Calibre CO113 is as transpicuous as ever, viewable through both sides of the sapphire crystal, its miniature form accentuated by a trimmed bezel and open-worked hands.

Hand-winding is via a stem at the 6 o’clock position and the Miss Golden Bridge has a power reserve of 40 hours.  In its finished form the piece sits beautifully on the wrist thanks to the removal of the watch horns allowing the alligator strap to integrate into the watchcase.

The Miss Golden Bridge will be available in 18ct white gold and red gold versions limited to a total of 333 pieces per year.  A diamond edition adorned with 90 stones forms part of this range, although this is hardly necessary as the exquisite baguette movement is the real jewel in this collection.

The Corum Golden Bridge 2010

The Golden Bridge 2010 release will be a little less lucid than its transparent predecessors with the addition of a watch dial, the placement of which being located behind the movement instead of in front, continues the often eccentric design traditions of the brand.

With openings in the caseback and the dial, the craftsmanship and hand engraving of the Calibre CO113 is not wasted and the sunburst guilloché dial rather than becoming an obstacle becomes a harmonious addition. The piece is finished with skeleton watch hands and applique baton hour markers.

The Corum Golden Bridge 2010 is available in 18ct red gold, 18ct  yellow or white gold and platinum versions complimented by black, grey or golden dial finishes depending on which case material  you choose and with an annual release of 333 pieces across the range.

It is interesting to note that Corum are perhaps the only manufacturer who can create enthusiasm within the industry by adding that most prominent of features – a watch dial – to one of their collections, surely a mark of the ingenious character of this unconventional brand.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Jaeger-LeCoultre continues its association with the elite corps of the U.S. Navy, the Navy SEALs, with the latest release in the series, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Alarm Navy SEALs Beverly Hills Boutique Incursion Edition.

These latest timepieces will be a Jaeger-LeCoultre first – a Beverly Hill Boutique exclusive and without doubt one which will cause rapture among the members of the JLCBHBC (or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Beverly Hills Boutique Connoisseurs Club, to give it its full title), who incidentally were also consulted during the creation of this edition.  The flagship store’s glitzy and glamorous site is in close enough proximity to the more austere Navy Amphibious Coronado base to make this collaboration authentic, location-wise at least.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Incursion Diving Alarm Navy SEALs

The 44mm watch case is available in either 18ct black gold or titanium PVD with a grey matte finish.  The movement is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 with 45-hour power reserve and hours, minutes, date aperture at three o’clock and rotating inner bezel ring.

The “covert” nature of these pieces results in a rather overcast character, however flashes of colour – yellow for the titanium PVD and orange for the black gold version on the seconds hand, crown and five seconds markings provide the required enlivenment. These colour-ways also feature as stitching on the ultra durable Cordoba strap.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Alarm Navy SEALs Beverly Hills Boutique Incursion Edition is a limited release of 62 pieces for the titanium PVD type and 19 pieces for the black gold version.

Popularity: 12% [?]

From the workshop of Maurice Lacroix comes a new limited edition piece, the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune.

Enthusiasts who appreciate unusual dial arrangements may have noticed previous Pontos Décentrique releases and this latest watch with its visually stunning atypical styling will not disappoint.

Display of hours, date and the exquisite moon phase are enabled via discs constantly rotating beneath the dial and are viewed through apertures positioned at the 4 o’clock position for the moon phase (which also doubles for the day/night feature),  the 10 o’clock for the hours and the 6 o’clock position for the date, leaving the only hand featured on the dial, the minutes hand to sweep around its off-centre dial alone.

The movement is the self-winding Calibre ML122 and the 45mm watchcase is constructed from titanium with a sand-blasted finish made all the more tactile with a coating of anti-fingermarking treatment.  The  Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune will be limited to 500 pieces world wide and will form part of the new 2010 portfolio.

*

Popularity: 10% [?]

From Montblanc comes a new release, the Montblanc Collection Villeret Vintage 1858 Chronographe.

The first Montblanc watch collection was unveiled in 1997 and this has evolved into an elegant and appealing portfolio of mens and ladies models.  Ambitions to be respected within the industry as a serious watch brand gained momentum when Montblanc’s parent company the Richemount Luxury Group also acquired Minerva, a manufacture acclaimed for its chronograph movements.  The combination of the uncompromising quality synonymous with the Montblanc brand together with the ingenious Minerva movements resulted in the birth of the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Collection, named in honour of the founding date of Minerva.

The Montblanc Collection Villeret Vintage 1858 Chronographe

The latest piece, the Villeret Vintage 1858 Chronographe is evocative of earlier chronographs with true retro styling. The beautifully clean grand feu enamel dial with blued steel hands features two timing devices: a telemetre scale for measuring distances based on the speed of sound located on the outer dial edge (perhaps familiar to enthusiasts of military pieces when this was once used as a crude type of range finder) and a tachymetre scale which due to lack of space is seductively curled in the centre of the dial in an intriguing snail-like spiral.

The technical yet refined piece features the Minerva 16-29 Calibre manual wind column wheel chronograph movement which has a crown operated monopusher for the chronograph allowing the 43.5mm wide case to maintain an uncluttered classically rounded shape.

Previous pieces in this collection have been limited releases of 1, 8 or 58 pieces – a further tribute to the year Minerva was founded and the Vintage 1858 Chronographe is no exception – 58 pieces will be released in 18ct red gold with white enamel dial presented on  a brown alligator straps with a further 58 released in 18ct white gold with black enamel dial presented on a black alligator strap.

Popularity: 6% [?]