Corum present a new limited edition piece, the Corum Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 48 Bol d’Or Mirabaud.  Corum are the new sponsors of the classic European regatta, the Bol d’or Mirabaud which has been taking place since 1939.

There is something very special about the Corum Admiral’s Cup collection.  The rounded 12-sided case and nautical pennants in place of hour markers design has been more or less the same since the early 80′s and Corum sensibly have not messed too much with the original concept.  This makes the Admiral’s Cup distinctive, even from a distance -  I noticed one on a guy’s wrist through a restaurant window last year, and was trying to work out which model it was when I saw that his lady friend was throwing daggers at me with her eyes, so I moved swiftly on my way.

Corum Admiral's Cup Bol d'Or Mirabaud

The latest piece takes the Admiral’s Cup away from recent black/monochrome editions into the blue, quite literally with a rich blue dial complimented by red gold hands, markers etc.  The watch is powered by Corum’s CO753 self-winding movement and is COSC certified.

The Corum Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 48 Bol d’Or Mirabaud is of course almost unattainable, just 35 pieces will be available worldwide, but hopefully Corum will take some of the styling touches and use them on further, less exclusive editions.

Popularity: 7% [?]

The Big Bang, signature collection of the Hublot brand is quite simply a fine example of the perfect horological business model – one product (-ish) with infinite possibilities for limited edition versions, all credit to Hublot’s enigmatic CEO Jean-Claude Biver, a master in global product placement.

A new edition, the Hublot Aero Bang FMM, a collaboration with the Mexican Football Federation (FMM) has just been unveiled and will be a limited edition of 250 pieces.   This is the second tribute piece released in this sporting partnership, the first in 2007 was a fairly tame affair compared to the latest boldly styled piece which features strong use of the green and red Mexican team colours on the openworked dial and hands.

Hublot Aero Bang FMM

Other football-themed releases by Hublot include pieces forManchester United, the Swiss National team and a recent tribute to Diego Maradona.  A few weeks ago Hublot became the first official timekeeper in the history of the FIFA World Cup, perhaps marketing strategists at Omega etc also deserve a Big Bang….on the ear, for letting that one slip by.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Jaeger-LeCoultre present a new piece – the AMVOX5 World Chronograph.

Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin formed a partnership in 2004 and this latest release is the fifth timepiece created in honor of these two historical brands, although it is the first in the collection to combine a chronograph with a worldtimer.

Worldtimers make for a busy dial, and the AMVOX5 is no exception although legibility is made easier by the large Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 8 and 10 o’clock – a distinctive feature of the collection. The movement is the Jaeger-LeCoultre 752 Calibre self-winding with column wheel chronograph (considered by many to be the only “true” chronograph) and 65 hours of power reserve.  The 24 time zones are indicated on the inner ring of the bezel denoted by the names of cities, London having being replaced by the town of Gaydon, Warwickshire where Aston Martin have their H.Q. and factory.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX 5 World Chronograph

The 44mm watchcase has the right combination of high tech materials required for a motorsport tribute piece, in this case yttrium oxide mixed with zirconium oxide -  the pursuit of the perfect weight vs durability ratio continues.  The AMVOX5 World Chronograph will be limited to 300 with ceramic and titanium case and 200 pieces with the ceramic and pink gold case.

True connoisseurs of the Aston Martin marque will appreciate two further limited edition releases, 100 per version which feature the addition of carbon fibre around the chronograph counters and flashes of orange on the dial and strap.  However although less exclusive, I think the ceramic and titanium release which has the day/night disc in a perfect white/red combination ticks all the boxes in terms of design – if you can bear the lack of carbon fibre that is.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Porsche Design receive the Red Dot Product Design Award 2010 in the category “watches and jewellery” for their P’6920 Rattrapante Limited Edition flyback chronograph.

This is another release from the masters of functionality, the  striking 45mm  black PVD coated titanium watchcase from the pioneers of the ultra lightweight sports watch combines with a black honeycomb dial, large Arabic numerals and flashes of colour on the tips of the centred second, fly back hand and counters creating a legible, usable and desirable piece.

The Porsche Design Chrono Rattrapante

The first Porsche Design Studio was founded in 1972 by Professor Ferdinand Porsche, grandson of the Porsche car marque founder and the studio have been designing men’s watches  since then, including a number of firsts such as the first wristwatch with integrated compass – in 1978, and the first titanium chronograph – in 1980.  IWC produced watches with the Porsche Design logo under license from 1976 until 1998, the cessation of this agreement co-incided with the purchase of Eterna by FAP-Beteiligungs-GmbH (also a Porsche family concern).  Eterna brought manufacturing prowess to this new-found and timely relationship while Porsche Design provided pure disciplined design.

The no nonsense P’6920 Rattrapante is a COSC certified chronograph limited to 200 pieces for this titanium edition.  It displays  the usual Porsche Design qualities – unashamed lack of fancy decoration of visible components and avoidance of delicate engraving or detailing.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The aptly named Chopard Happy Diamond portfolio of watches is I feel impossible to dislike, ok maybe some of the “mother-of-the-bride” pastel shaded chronograph editions are a bit too sugar coated but the collection has a broad appeal and without doubt has gained Chopard a younger client  base worldwide.

The original concept was apparently inspired by one of Chopard’s designers, who while walking in the woods noticed how the droplets of water from a waterfall sparkled in the sunlight and had the idea of recreating the mesmerising effect of movement on a watch dial.  Using diamonds with the underside rounded off and the top sides polished, the stones could move freely without causing scratching.  The first Happy Diamonds watch made its debut at Baselworld in 1977 featuring a square-ish watchcase with hours and minutes in a centre disc around which 30 Top Wesselton diamonds playfully moved.  The piece had a plain dial without numerals allowing for full effect of the free-moving stones, a plainness recreated for the 150th Anniversary Chopard Happy Sport Edition.

The Chopard Happy Sport 150th Anniversary

The Chopard Happy Sport 150th Anniversary edition features five star-shaped diamonds superbly contrasted with a midnight blue “aventurine-effect” lacquered dial, complimented by a midnight blue leather or satin strap.  Absence of numerals, an unfusssy dial and a colourway perfectly suited to showing off the full effect of the diamonds make this celebratory piece a brilliant little beauty.

The Chopard Happy Sport 150th Anniversary watch is limited to 1000 pieces, also available are  a blue sapphire set bezel version (here comes the fussyness) limited to 500 pieces and a diamond set bezel version (ditto) available, also limited to 500 pieces worldwide.

Popularity: 8% [?]

To promote their commercial partnership as Official Timekeeper to the World Rally Championship, Edox have taken the wraps off their new Edox Chronorally chronograph watch.

Incorporating several different automotive design cues such as the wheel-rim inspired caseback, the tyre-tread rubber strap and carbon fibre dial, the new Edox Chronorally chronograph is at once distinctive by the nature of it’s large crown and pushers and also the uncommon functions on offer which will be recognisable to the rally driver and co-driver for whose timekeeping requirements the watch is designed around.

Edox Chronorally

The Edox Chronorally allows the wearer to record the times of up to 15 stages, to overlay a stage time if the stage is repeated, accumulated time, countdown to start and a 1/10 seconds counter.  All functions are selectable by the oversized anodised red aluminium pusher near the 2 o’clock position.

It surely is a specialised piece and one whose functions would be superfluous to the needs of all but rally teams personel and the hardcore rally enthusiast, but having said that, there are a large number of folk who follow or participate in the sport and with the international visibility afforded them through their high-profile association with the WRC, Edox have produced a smart-looking sports watch which could do quite well for the company.

Edox Chronorally caseback

The Chronorally comes in a sizeable 48mm stainless steel case and is 15.2mm in height. It is powered by the Edox 36 calibre quartz movement with Soprod base.

Thanks to Laurence at Edox for his help explaining the functions.

Popularity: 34% [?]

Cuervo y Sobrinos present a new piece the Torpedo Historiador Pequenõs Segundos.

This latest addition to the portfolio offered by the re-emerged Cuervo y Sobrinos brand follows the successful release of the Torpedo Historiador Semanal reviewed by the WatchPress on Feb 8th with its notably busy dial consisting of five different scales, yet the Historiador Pequenõs Segundos could not be more different in styling.  This is an understated piece – styling inspiration taken from the brand’s historical models of the 1950′s results in a modest 40mm case size with slightly curved sapphire crystal and the highly distinctive Cuervo y Sobrinos lugs.

Cuervo y Sobrinos Torpedo Historiador Pequenõs Segundos

The Cuervo y Sobrinos logo appears at 12 o’clock, date window is at 3 o’clock with the small seconds (or pequenõs segundos) at 6 o’clock and the dial features elongated applied hour markers.  Overall styling of this piece could be described as classical, elegant, refined or maybe even plain…….were it not for the history of this special brand. This piece remains true to the unique spirit of Cuervo y Sobrinos, a fulfillment of the new owners of this re-awakened brand when after forty years of hibernation, original watch drawings were discovered in the old premises on Avenida Quinta, Havana – drawings destined to be used in the current Historiador Collection.

The Torpedo Historiador Pequenõs Segundos is available in stainless steel case with black dial (released in April 2010), or rose gold case with white dial (due for release in September 2010)

Popularity: 14% [?]

I was browsing through the catalog for the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches sale and noticed a number of interesting pieces while doing so.

Among the many prestigious watches, one piece that did catch my eye was a Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen Chronograph dating back to c.1971. At first glance it’s a rather battered old thing whose crystal is heavily scratched and scuffed. There are dings and dents aplenty on the aging stainless steel case and the steel link bracelet could do with the watch version of a nip n’ tuck to tighten it up a little – well, a lot actually. In short, the watch is a sight in this condition. And, with a price guide estimate of between 6, – 8,000 CHF (or around £5,000) all add up to seems a little fanciful for a piece in this condition.

Clay Regazzoni Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen

But a quick read through the details of the sale reveals a little of the watch’s history. For once, long ago it had been the property of former Ferrari and Williams F1 pilot, Clay Regazzoni. Looking once more at the condition of the watch, it does begin to make sense in the end. Sure, it would be a real find to come across a piece with provenance in mint or very good condition, but the fact that the watch is unrestored only adds to it’s character. After all, we come to expect that any piece of machinery which has passed through the hands of a 1970′s racing driver would have been ‘well-lived’ and pretty second-hand.

Included in the sale is a bill of sale written in the hand of Regazzoni himself when the watch changed hands to one Clive Miller for a princely $80!

Regazzoni Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen bill of sale

Now it is fair to say that Clay Regazzoni was not the greatest F1 driver – of his or any generation, but he surely was a character, enjoying the life of the racing driver of his time and to me, it’s nice to see this old bird appearing for the short time before it goes to sale in Sotheby’s auction rooms in Geneva on 9th May 2010.

Battered and worn it may be, but I would be surprised if it didn’t reach the guide price and disappear once more into the hands of a collector to whom a watch like this might have less value if it were unworn and in mint condition – it wouldn’t have been lived-in.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Oris present a new addition to their portfolio – the Oris RAID Chronograph Limited Edition.

The latest release,  limited to 500 pieces,  is a celebration of the brand’s most recent connection with the world of motorsport – Oris are the new official partner of the RAID SUISSE-PARIS classic car rally which sets off from Basel on 26th August 2010.  Oris are perhaps better known to motorsport fans as official watch partner of the Williams Formula One team, a marriage which has produced a range of techy timekeepers with the right mix of high quality/keen prices.

The Oris RAID Chronograph Limited Edition

The Oris RAID Chronograph Limited Edition takes design inspiration from the car which won the 2009 RAID event, a 1952 Jaguar XK 120 – the hour and minute counters both have rev counter style red zones (which presumably indicate the max you can rev your classic Jag engine before its rally-over time…).  The piece measures 43mm is constructed from stainless steel with user-friendly chunky pushers and features slightly domed non-reflective sapphire crystal and hours, minutes and small seconds with date display between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Oris have been manufacturing mechanical watches in Hölstein, Switzerland for over 100 years and have become quite clever at producing high quality, usable watches with a refreshing lack of gimmicks and flowery speeches.  The latest piece is no exception.

The Oris RAID Chronograph Limited Edition

Popularity: 10% [?]

Richard Mille release an exclusive new timepiece the RM027 Tourbillon, a watch designed for and in partnership with tennis ace Rafael Nadal.

Richard Mille is perhaps best described as a brand which creates and releases for sale to the public pieces which are so technically innovative that others in the industry would consider them to be “concept watches”. Although when I say ‘public’, I should also explain that to buy a Richard Mille you’d need to be in Mr Nadals’ salary bracket.

The technical achievement in the RM027 Tourbillon lies in its lightweight construction – the piece weighs in at an astounding 20 grams, including the strap – essential if, as reported Nadal will wear the piece during match play rather than simply during practice and post-match interviews.

Richard Mille RM027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Taking inspiration from the world of Formula 1 and the aerospace industry, both of which have been experimenting with the extremes of weight-reduction for years, the watchmakers at Richard Mille have once again applied cutting-edge materials to create the end product.  In this case the use of an alloy with a high lithium content is used in the construction of the RM027 Tourbillon movement, a material which is ultra-light, flexible and highly shock-resistant.  Carbon also plays a part in the construction of the watchcase and the back bezel and caseband are monobloc, adding to durability, lightness and aesthetic appeal.

The RM027 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal will be a limited release of 50 pieces worldwide and is priced at a racket dropping $525,000! It is expected to make its match debut at the Monte Carlo Masters 1000, which incidently is sponsored by ……….. Rolex.

Popularity: 34% [?]

Alpina release two new models of their Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture for 2010.

The Swiss manufacturer received acclaim at Baselworld 2009 for their full black version of the Extreme Tourbillon Regulator and the latest models added to the collection are enhanced with the use of a traditional material, pink gold.

Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The movement the AL Calibre 980 is unique and technically innovative – the use of a silicon escapement wheel and silicon pallet lever (in common with sister company Frédérique Constant) together with the brand’s Smart Weight Balancing™ ensure the ultimate in accuracy and reliability.  The AL Calibre 980 was conceived and developed within three years by a dedicated team of engineers and watchmakers driven by a common goal, the future sucess of this revived brand.

Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture

The two new models have 48mm cases constructed from titanium with pink gold bezel or pink gold with a black ceramic bezel.  The dial remains black but with some satin finishing and the characteristic Alpina double digit numerals add to the overall robustness of this piece.  Decoration of the bridges of the tourbillon cage, which also displays individual numbering add detail and hand finishing you would expect on such exclusive pieces.

The new Alpina Extreme Tourbillon Regulator Manufacture models will be a limited release of 18 pieces per version.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Gresso launch their first watch collection at Baselworld 2010 – the Gresso Grand Wind Skeleton Collection.

Gresso are manufacturers of luxury mobile phones (or “luxury communications devices”), which are high tech in both appearance and function.  Now after three years development, the company realise their horological ambitions and the result is anything but subtle. With a rose gold or white gold watchcase measuring 45mm x 12mm and strong comtemporary styling this is definately a “look-at-me” piece.

Gresso Grand Wind Skeleton

The watch front is split in two comprising the dial for indicating the hours and minutes and another window which shows a view of the rotor which is located right there – on the front of the watch, an unusual and perhaps distracting feature (the constant swaying of a rotor is no match for a mesmerising gently spinning tourbillon, I feel…).  The two windows on the watch front are framed with carbon inlays with large Roman numerals on the bezel at 12 and 6 o’clock adding to the bold technical styling.

The watchback features two more sapphire windows, directly opposite those on the front, one with a view of the movement, the other showing the second hand which takes the form of a three-blade propeller, rather like a Mercedes-Benz pointed star.  The movement is the Gresso G1 with the ETA 2671 as its base with a power reserve of 38 hours.

A particular feature of the Gresso company is the bespoke facility with which you can order a customised mobile phone, so it will be interesting to see how their watch manufacturing department develops.  In any case the Gresso Grand Wind Skeleton is reassuringly limited to a world wide release of 100 pieces in each version.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Armin Strom release the first collection of watches powered by their first in-house calibre – the ARM09 (Armin Reserve Marche 09).

The movement was already given its debut in November 2009 but the new One Week Earth Collection remained under wraps until Baselworld 2010.

Armin Strom, co-founder of the brand is an acclaimed expert in hand-skeletonized pieces and the Armin Strom Blue Chip series of watches is viewed by many as one of the industry’s finest examples of this exquisite art.

The Armin Strom One Week Earth

The latest Earth Collection and the added achievement of the title “manufacture” follows a dynamic few years for the company which also saw them relocate to a new bespoke premises in Biel, Switzerland – not so much the realisation of a dream, more part of the strategic long term plans of this innovative marque, because although this is a brand which may use traditional finishing techniques it is one which is fully focused on the future.  It’s state-of-the-art production area would be the envy of many larger companies and the new calibre ARM09 certainly has development potential with provision in its design to add modules for more complicated pieces to come.

The dial of the One Week Earth Collection is split into three segments comprising off-centre hours and minutes, small seconds and power reserve at 9 o’clock and stunning visible crown wheels and hand-regulating mechanism.  The ARM09 Calibre consists of 146 components and has a 7 day power reserve.  Case variations are titanium, stainless steel, PVD coated stainless steel and 18 carat rose gold.

The four versions of the collection Earth, Water, Air, and Fire will be a limited release of 100 pieces per element.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Jaquet Droz unveil a new addition to their portfolio, the Grande Seconde Minute Repeater.

Pierre Jaquet Droz (1721-1790) was a creator and purveyor of fine watches to the Kings of Europe and beyond and the modern day Jaquet Droz brand, now part of the Swatch Group, takes inspiration from the techniques used by the founder to manufacture an exclusive collection of contemporary pieces.

The Minute Repeater is an ingenious complication which sounds the hours, quarter-hours and the minutes and the ability to reproduce the mechanisms required to operate it within the confines of a wristwatch case requires master watchmaking skills of the highest order.

The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Minute Repeater

The Grande Seconde Minute Repeater features the classic Jaquet Droz dial layout with the hours and minutes off-centred at 12 o’clock and large seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, the two interlocking to form a figure of 8.  Grand Feu enamelling of the dial, another feature synonymous of this brand, results in a finish of the utmost purity and this together with the extra trim red gold watch case edge creates an impression of plainless which belies the sophisticated interior of this superlative watch.  The  piece is powered by the Jaquet Droz 2635 Minute Repeater self-winding movement with power reserve of 48 hours.

Forming part of the “Numerus Clausus” collection, the Grande Seconde Minute Repeater will be a limited release of 28 pieces.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The latest addition to the H. Moser & Cie collection is highly unusual and technically unique in its construction.  The moonphase complication of this piece marks the passing of each phase through the use of a gear train so precise that the display will only deviate by one day in over 1000 years.

H. Moser Perpetual Moon

The moonphase itself is both visually stunning and highly unusual, the window located at 6 0′clock also displays the eight moon quarters represented as vertical lines and also a division into days which is applied directly onto the dial.  When one of the vertical lines (denoting the astronomical quarters of the moonphase) is aligned between the two triangles of the dial aperture, precise readabilityof a defined phase is therefore ensured.  Adjustment of the moonphase, if required is possible – a pin-type pushbutton is located at 9 o’clock and the use of an innovative wrap spring clutch mechanism allows for correction of the moonphase without changing the time display.

H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Moon

H. Moser & Cie was founded in 1825 but the original brand name was revived and re-registered once more as a watchmaking company in 2002.  Watch movements manufactured by this acclaimed brand are unique in their finish and construction – the pallet levers and escape wheels are constructed from solid gold – the only watch company to do so- and are fitted with a removable escapement providing a simple and safe solution to repairs.  Distinctive finishing on the plate and bridges in the form of broad and narrow double lines or “Moser ground stripes” and the use of gold chatons into which the jewels are set place this brand apart in terms of attention to detail.

The Moser Perpetual Moon is a striking piece – the moonphase is complimented by a rich dark blue fumé dial and features elongated appliquéd markers.  It is powered by the Moser Calibre HMC348.901 hand-wound movement and is available in two variations, 18 carat rose gold or platinium.

Popularity: 5% [?]