Parmigiani the Fleurier manufacture present the Parmigiani Tonda 1950.

Ah, the dress watch, once an essential part of every gentleman’s attire – a timepiece which rests beneath the cuff modestly, with just a hint of a polished bezel on display.  None of the high tech stuff is required for a dress watch, no carbon fibre, no engine-inspired bits on the case side, and certainly no chronograph clutter on the dial.  Despite all the advances that the industry has made in the exploration of avant-garde materials and techniques, the quintessential gold dress watch simply refuses to disappear from brand portfolios.

Any piece which is enscribed with the iconic Parmigiani Fleurier oval logo is endowed with a certain expected level of quality and the Tonda 1950 is no exception.  The attention to detail is to be found in the construction and finishing of the in-house PF700 automatic movement – Côtes de Genève, hand bevelled bridges and a platinium rotor can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal caseback,  round the front however all is plain and pure, unadorned and classical.

The Parmigiani Tonda 1950 White Gold

The 1950 model is constructed from 18 carat rose gold or white gold, measures 39mm across and is a slim and trim 7.8mm thick, its extra flat design suits the satisfyingly rounded tonda case shape and those big curvy Parmigiani lugs to perfection.  The dial is uncluttered featuring feuille-shaped lume-coated hands, whisker slender markers and a pristine little small seconds at 6 o’clock.  Two dial versions are available, graphite and grained white both of which are framed with an eye pleasing polished bezel.  Water resistance is to 30m and the pieces are presented on an alligator strap with case-matching buckle.

The Parmigiani Tonda 1950 represents the very essence of understated charm, timeless and traditional, the kind of watch which makes a man want to unearth his cufflinks, put on a tuxedo and take his girl somewhere fancy for dinner and therefore one which I would thoroughly recommend.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Corum present a new watch for their Artisan collection the Corum Romvlvs Billionaire Tourbillon.

The Romvlvs collection was created at a time when the youthful Corum brand enlivened many otherwise dull watch industry fairs with their unconventional designs.  The story goes that as the unveiling of the Romvlvs drew closer, the dial of the piece was still unfinished, so the decision was taken to engrave the numerals directly onto the bezel, an instantly recognisable design which remains a strong presence in the Corum portfolio today.  For the latest piece those synonymous Roman numerals take the form of baguette-set diamonds.

The Corum Romvlvs Billionaire Tourbillon

Almost the entire surface of the 45mm white gold case and crown are diamond set, but don’t be fooled the Romvlvs Billionaire Tourbillon is not simply a bling bling watch, it is a Haute Horlogerie piece on many levels – it features a highly complicated movement, there are astounding  technical challenges involved in the construction of the sapphire crystal plate and bridges around the tourbillon and an exceptional level of craftsmanship is  required for the gem-setting techniques which give the piece its glitzy covering.

Inside is the C0372 hand wound movement with 90 hours power reserve and water resistance to 30m (as if you’d dare to let even a micro droplet of water near it) and the piece comes presented on a leather strap.  The Corum Romvlvs Billionaire Tourbillon has been selected for the Jewellery Watch category in the forthcoming Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.  Win or lose one thing is for sure, if it is true that the watch you wear says a lot about you then this one will definitely say it louder.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Nivrel present a new special edition to their collection, La Grande Manuelle X47.

Nivrel are a German-based company who produce timepieces with exquisite finishing and attention to detail,  their portfolio is a varied one ranging from classically styled automatic pieces to the handmade Pièce Unique models.  For their latest release Nivrel collaborate with X47, producers of ingenious personal organisers and calendars and the result is a unique special edition which is both functional and beautiful.

The watch features a 42mm steel case and a pure uncluttered silver dial.  A traditional minutes track, small seconds at 5 o’clock and large plain Arabic numerals add to the classical crispness of the design.  Inside is a manual-wind Unitas 6498-1 movement with flame-blued swan’s neck fine adjustment and screws and Côtes de Genève finishing – refinements synonymous with Nivrel.

The Nivrel La Grande Manuelle X47

The X47 organiser or “leather timer” features a steel spine rail which holds the inserts firmly and dispels with the need for the usual ring binder so the system is less bulky, has no punched holes in the sheets thus more space to write on and is super slim.  With this level of innovation and functionality you will probably have guessed that X47 are also a German company who, like Nivrel are based in the state of Saarland.  The X47 also uses a unique calendar system termed “Time Circles” – each page features a doodle-tastic diagram of a blank watch dial which you can use to split up your day with space below for notes etc.  If you are a visual planner rather than a lateral thinker then this might just change the way you sort out your day.

The Nivrel La Grande Manuelle X47 watch is presented on a brown alligator strap and the leather organiser has a calf-skin leather cover embossed with the Nivrel logo.  The special edition is limited to 250 pieces.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Graham London present the Mercedes GP Silverstone.  The brand are timing partners with the Mercedes Petronas F1 team and this latest piece should provide the perfect antidote to all the girly watches recently featured on the WatchPress.

The piece measures 48mm and features hours counter at 6 o’clock, small seconds and date at 9 o’clock and a minutes counter at the 12 o’clock position with Mercedes “silver arrows” on its scale.  Further partnership-pleasing design touches are the flashes of green on the seconds hand and on the rim of the hours counter representing the colour of  Petronas, the Malaysian petroleum company who are the team’s major partner.

The Graham Mercedes GP Silverstone

Two versions are available, black dial and white dial, both with “Mercedes GP” enscribed at 3 o’clock and both with “Mercedes GP Petronas” engraved onto the sapphire crystal caseback.  Inside is the Calibre G1735 automatic tri-compax chronograph movement with 48 hours power reserve.

Graham Mercedes GP Silverstone

Graham often use outsize Arabic numerals on their dials, but the use of hour markers on the Mercedes GP Silverstone gives this piece a sleek appearance and the white dial version in particular looks positively tame -  for a Graham that is.  The piece comes presented on the Graham chunky tyre tread rubber strap.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Breguet present a new ladies watch – the Reine de Naples Steel.

There are a few characteristics which define the luxuriously elegant Reine de Naples collection – the curvey “egg-shaped” case, the distinctive ball strap lug, the asymmetric design with crown at four o’clock, the off-centre chapter ring on mother of pearl dial and the haute-horlogerie combination of gold and diamonds used in its construction, until now that is, the latest piece is made from steel.

The Reine de Naples Steel is larger than previous models at 43.75 x 35.50mm, perhaps because the more economical steel allows for a larger case or maybe because this piece is less a dress watch and more for everyday wear given the lack of jewels (personally I have no problem wearing a diamond-set watch in daylight hours – nothing quite catches the sunlight like a bezel full of Top Wesseltons).

The Breguet Reine de Naples Steel

Breguet are one of the hallowed few who appear to give the same attention to the mechanics of ladies watches as they do for their mens collections and inside this one is the Calibre 591C self-winding movement.  The use of high precision silicon escapement and balance-spring and the handfinished 22 carat gold oscillating weight say a lot about the direction Breguet is taking, respecting the traditional watchmaking methods whilst embracing the use of cutting-edge materials.

The Breguet Reine de Naples Steel is water resistant to 30m and comes presented on a grey alligator strap.  The piece is not entirely lacking in sparkle, somebody in Breguet’s design department must have stamped their foot and insisted that the curious little drop-shaped diamond set into the crown must remain, steel case or not, and quite right too.

Popularity: 5% [?]

The Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) will celebrate it’s tenth anniversary this year with the prize-giving ceremony taking place on 18th November 2010 at the Grand Théâtre de Genève.  Open to all watchmaking brands the awards comprise ten pre-selected watches in seven categories plus a public prize, best watchmaker prize, special jury prize and the ultimate feather in the cap, l’Aiguille d’Or – the Golden Hand.  Master Watchmakers are a unique breed – don’t be fooled by the stereotypical image of a patient, quietspoken craftsman, content only when in the comfort zone of the bench, unassuming and private…….. this profession is as ruthlessly competitive as any other!  New projects are protected with a cloak of secrecy that would put the secret service to shame, accusations of “copy cat” activities are often leaked to the press and when it comes to the most prestigious industry awards, no matter what they say, they all have their eyes on the big prize.

François-Paul Journe, a WatchPress favourite is quite a character – often outspoken, always ambitious and innovative.  Having learned his skills (often self-taught) through the restoration and maintenance of some of the oldest and most important horological collections in his Uncle’s Parisian workshop, Journe is a self-confessed respector of the techniques of the “Old Masters”.  Not only that, through the continued refinement of grande complications, he has become one of the most accomplished Master Watchmakers of our time, a statement which belies his age – he is only 53 years old.  For the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Journe enters no less than four timepieces.

In the Complications category two F P Journe watches are short listed.  The Chronomètre à Résonance edition submitted is a 10th anniversary celebration of the groundbreaking watch which many agree firmly established M.Journe’s reputation.  The addition of a 24 hour indicator at the  9 o’clock position adds to the complexity of this piece making it extra special.

The F P Journe Chronomètre à Résonance

Also in the category Complications, the Répétition Souveraine – at just 8.7mm the ultimate ultra-thin watch.  The minute repeater movement itself barely measures 4mm – an example of horological micro-surgery considering the complex mechanics required, yet it is still one of the purist sounding minute repeaters available.

The F P Journe Répétition Souveraine

In the design and Concept category, F P Journe submit the tortue-shaped Vagabondage II a manual winding mechanical piece with “jumping” original digital display.  An unusual piece, not only for its design, but interestingly the watchmakers name does not appear on the dial.

The F P Journe Vagabondage II

Finally, in the men’s category the Chronomètre Bleu, a manual wind mechanical watch, its 56 hour power reserve produced from twin barrels.  It is exquisitely finished and features one of  the most sublime blue dials I have seen.

The F P Journe Chronomètre Bleu

F P Journe has already won the Aiguille d’Or.  The only disadvantage of being winner is the obligation to become a judge on the panel for the event the following year and therefore excluded from entry to the competition.  Journe won in 2004 (became a judge for 2005), won in 2006 (became a judge for 2007), won in 2008 (became a judge for 2009)……………..perhaps you notice a pattern emerging.  If you want to read more about this remarkable talent read Johnny’s biography of F P Journe here.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Saskia Maaike Bouvier launched her first collection at Baselworld 2010 titled L’Heure d’Eté & d’Hiver – Summer & Winter Time and as the end of daylight saving time is almost upon us this is perhaps the perfect time to introduce her to readers of the WatchPress.

Saskia Maaike Bouvier – ACHI candidate, independent master watchmaker, designer, artist and rising star of the watch industry.  Having acquired her watchmaking degree in 1997, Saskia worked for some of the watch industry’s major players mainly on research and development of mechanical movements.  An independent since 2004, she realised her ambitions to create her own brand of women’s mechanical timepieces, a niche often neglected by luxury watch brands, in 2009.

Watch brand research and development departments here is the news….women do have an awareness for mechanical timepieces: women do appreciate complications and the skills involved in their creation: women do want to wear bigger watches: women do not just want a “pinked-up” version of a man’s watch – facts which industry savvy Saskia recognised and which inspired her to create a very unique first collection.

The dial of L’Heure d’Eté & d’Hiver collection features two time displays, the top half for summertime, the lower for wintertime.  The concept is complex yet playful, technical yet imaginative.  Of course there is no specific need for two seasonal time displays – it is a whimsical take on the mundane daylight saving activity.  Make no mistake, this is not a dual timezone watch, the one hour difference is fixed, when you adjust one set of hands, the other also adjusts making it impossible to set them separately.

The large declined dial is partly openworked, the bridges take the form of trees and the wheels are decorated with flowers for summer and snowflakes for winter the sapphire crystal is laser engraved and coloured by hand.  Inside is the SmB selfwinding mechanical movement with 40 hours power reserve.

The 45mm watchcase features a plain classically rounded rim, the perfect frame for the exquisite artwork on the dial.  Termed by the lady herself as a collection “from a woman for women”  88 pieces will be available in stainless steel and 8 in the white gold with diamonds edition.  Each will be presented on a colour co-ordinated hand stitched leather strap with contrasting lining and customising to individual requirements is a possibility given the artistic nature of both the piece and its creator.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Armin Strom have been announced Official Timing Partner of the Virgin Racing F1 Team.

Virgin is of course a well known global brand – there is hardly a single commercial pie into which Richard Branson has not successfully dipped his finger, music, travel, financial services, communications to name only a few and of course Formula One.

Armin Strom AG founded in 2006 might sound like a very youthful watch brand yet when it was founded Armin Strom had already spent a long career at the bench producing exquisite handcrafted timepieces with characteristic skeletonisation of the highest quality. With a new movement, their first in-house Calibre the ARM09 unveiled almost a year ago and presented at Baselworld 2010 housed within the One Week Earth Collection, it has already been a great year for the brand.

That this will be an interesting marriage of these two very different companies is in no doubt.  I suspect that the offspring of this commercial daliance will be technical, superbly crafted limited editions, possibly forming part of the Armin by Armin Strom collection.

F1 fan? read more about F1 drivers and their watches from Senna to Schumacher and beyond here.

Popularity: 5% [?]

There’s no sign of the crushing recession being heralded by the international media – at least in the house of LVMH at any rate. In his article earlier today, London-based markets correspondent Simon Kennedy confirmed the further significant growth of the luxury goods giant as it continues on past it’s five year market high with stocks trading at €114 as of today, 14th October 2010. This compares nicely to the €68 52-week low of last November, with stocks having rallied almost 70% in that period.

LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton 12-month chart

“Luxury-goods giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton said Thursday its third-quarter sales rose 24% as wealthy customers snapped up designer watches and cases of Dom Perignon.

The group said total sales in the quarter were 5.11 billion euros ($7.19 billion), compared to €4.14 billion a year earlier.

LVMH said the performance confirmed the trends seen in the first half of the year, with very strong growth across Asia, Europe and the U.S. Sales were also stronger across every division, it added.

Champagne sales in the latest quarter showed “good return of consumer demand,” and contributed to a 24% rise in sales of wines and spirits to €846 million.

The company, which owns the Dom Perignon, Moet & Chandon and Krug champagne brands, among others, also said that demand for Hennessy cognac had continued to accelerate in Asia.

The strongest revenue growth was in the group’s luxury watches and jewelry business, where sales rose over 30% to €244 million in the third quarter, helped by the launch of new Tag Heuer models and increased market share for Hublot.

Overall sales were ahead of the €4.83 billion consensus forecast.

“On balance this was a very strong quarter, that should be good enough to keep the upward momentum in LVMH shares, despite their recent strong run,” said Credit Suisse analyst Rogerio Fujimori.

Among its other divisions, LVMH said fashion and leather-goods sales rose 26% to 1.95 billion euros as momentum returned to its Fendi and Donna Karan brands.

The group didn’t provide a detailed outlook, but said performance in the first nine months of the year “has confirmed its confidence for 2010.”

Popularity: 12% [?]

Images of a new timepiece from one of Independent Watchmaking’s most prestigious Atelier’s arrived at the WatchPress this week, the Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10.

The classically styled round case of the Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 features an intricate open dial which offers a mesmerising view of what must surely be the most challenging of complications, the minute repeater.  A minute repeater wristwatch is one which sounds the hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand, an astonishing achievement within the confines of a pocketwatch case, horological genius when the mechanics involved are integrated within a wristwatch case.

This is a bespoke piece, the Voutilainen workshop based in Môtiers creates small numbers of pieces to customers requirements.  Most of the parts are handmade, all are hand finished to perfection.  The Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 features a number of traditional finishing techniques – anglage (or beveling) on the bridges, springs and hammers, Geneva Stripes on the surface of the bridges and circular snail graining on the mainplate.

Kari Voutilainen hails from Finland where he attended the much respected watchmaking school in Tapiola, having gained experience in the restoration and repair of antique timepieces and at Parmigiani Mesure et Temps SA, he also spent part of his career sharing his knowledge through teaching.  An independent watchmaker since 2002, he is perhaps best known for his development of Decimal Repeater watches.

The Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 measures 38mm x 11mm and has a case constructed from Stavax, a hardened stainless steel which together with the design of the case produces the perfect acoustics required for a piece of this supreme quality.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Richard Mille present a new limited edition piece – the RM 011 Titanium Brown, for release in North and South America.

The latest version of the technically challenging RM011 features a watchcase coated with PVD resulting in a completely new look – rich brown, not only that, the bezel, crown, indicators and strap are all orange.  Now a combination of orange and brown might just conjure up images in your mind of 1970′s wallpaper, but the 50mm x40mm RM011 is meaty enough to get away with it, as you can see from the almost surreal image below.

The Richard Mille RM011 Titanium Brown

If you are a watch fan then you’ll know that the Richard Mille brand are producers of technical sports watches using the sharpest of cutting-edge materials, these watches are pricey, tasty and desirable and you’ll find them on the wrists of Rafael Nadal and Felipe Massa. The latest RM011 features the stunning skeletonised movement with flyback chronograph function, annual calendar, 55 hour power reserve and a rotor whose winding capabilities can be adjusted according to how sporty/inactive you are .

The RM011 Titanium Brown will be sold at Richard Mille boutiques in North and South America and will be a limited release of 30 pieces.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Audemars Piguet present a new limited edition piece – the Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli Chronograph.  The latest piece is a magnificent addition to the portfolio of limited edition Royal Oak Offshores, the chunky big brother of the Gérald Genta designed Royal Oak which dates back to 1972.

Jarno Trulli, F1 driver, wine-maker and all round nice guy has been associated with Audemars Piguet since 2008.  He has been struggling with his Lotus a bit this season, but remains dignified and likeable and to my knowledge hasn’t squeezed any other drivers up against a brick wall out on the track, unlike another famous F1 veteran.  It’s been a great week for AP’s sporting ambassadors, four of whom played for the victorious European team in the Ryder Cup, no doubt adding to the brand’s 135th Anniversary celebrations.

The Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli Chronograph is a splendid combination of high-tech materials – forged carbon, Cermet (a ceramic-metal composition) and titanium.  The result is a stunning mix of grey and black.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli Chronograph

Silvered counters and touches of red on the hour markers, hour and minute hands and on the chronograph seconds hand illuminate the grey and black to perfection.  The use of markers rather than numerals on editions such as this cleans up the dial giving the different textures and materials used centre stage.  Even the case is neat and tidy, gone are the “air extractor” style pushpieces seen on other F1-inspired Off-Shore Chronographs – this piece features smooth and sleek rounded titanium pushers.  Overall this is a superb version, in my opinion bettered only by the very tasty titanium and rubber Juan Pablo Montoya edition with race-suit inspired stitched strap released some years ago .

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli Chronograph

The 42mm Jarno Trulli Chronograph is powered by the mechanical self-winding Calibre 3126/3840 with power reserve of 60 hours.  Audemars Piguet are known for their high quality movements and immaculate finishing and this piece is no exception.  The craftsmanship can be viewed through the exhibition caseback which is also inscribed with Jarno’s signature.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Jarno Trulli Chronograph comes presented on a black rubber strap and will be a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Popularity: 16% [?]

You may remember the fuss created by the MB&F Horological Machine No3 Frog when it was presented earlier this year (you can read my original article here).  It was a magnificent interpretation of the MB&F Horological Machine No3 (HM3) and was an incredible aptly-named bulbous-eyed technical sensation.

The House of Boucheron, Paris were given the task of turning the HM3  N03 Frog into a haute-joaillerie piece.  Producing a be-jewelled frog would, of course have been much too easy, instead the French jewellers have created an exquisite shimmering owl.  If you like sparkling pieces you’ll love this – if your eyes are sore, here is a sight for them!

MB&F JwlryMachine

Two versions will be released, an 18ct white gold piece with amethysts, diamonds and blue and violet sapphires….

MB&F JwlryMachine 18ct White Gold

……and an. 18ct red gold version with pink tourmalines, rose quartz, diamonds and pink sapphires………

MB&F JwlryMachine 18ct Red Gold

The pieces are pavé-set with brilliant-cut stones, so very little of the original piece is visible apart from the instantly recognisable time-indicating cones which form the owl’s eyes.  The rotor can just about be seen beneath the stones set on the owl’s breast which gives the impression that the opulent little fellow has in fact got a beating heart.  Maybe you think that for the price you will pay for something like this it would need to be alive……….. maybe you think it’s a little too ostentatious for our current global financial climate, maybe you think they should have spelled the name correctly………….. oh how cynical you are……  what this piece represents is a playful take on an extremely complicated technical timepiece, the end result is somewhere between a piece of art and a piece of jewellery, a charming wristwatch to behold and one which should not be analysed too much, unless you’re a gemologist looking for inspiration for your next collection.

The MB&F JwlryMachine is available to order with  individual customised pieces expected to be an option.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Even if you detest golf, you probably know that the Ryder Cup 2010 teed off yesterday at the Celtic Manor Resort course in Wales ….. before the rain sent the players back to the clubhouse and play was halted for the day.  Both teams read like a who’s who in the game, and this tournament unlike most others is played for honour not money.  I’m not smitted by the game, but I have to admit that the Ryder Cup is something special and it got me thinking about the ultimate golf accessory – the Golf Watch.

The best known is probably the TAG Heuer Professional Golf Watch, a slim square-cased piece which Tiger Woods helped design, and of course market.  But today I will focus instead on a lesser-known brand,  Jaermann & Stübi, experts in the creation of small series specialised watches for golfers.

The latest release from Jaermann & Stübi is the Seve Ballesteros II.  As the name suggests this is the second watch produced in collaboration with the legendary player and its dial and presentation box in his honour are an eye-pleasing dark blue, the Spaniard’s favourite colour.

The Jaermann & Stübi Seve Ballesteros II

Jaermann Stübi use Soprod Calibre A10 movements which they modify to suit their needs.  This one features a course timer and GMT function, ergonomic design with the pusher located at 2 o’clock and crown at 4 o’clock and of course shock absorbing abilities with a patented flexible stem system.  However it doesn’t really matter what this watch can do – even if it didn’t display time at all, golfers would still want one, even if it was so aesthetically challenged that you would want to keep your glove on long after the game had ended this would still be the watch you’d put on your wish list, why?……because the watchcase of each piece in the series is made from the melted down golf clubs of the man himself.  The last tournament which Seve Ballesteros won before he became ill was the 1995 Spanish Open.  The putting wedge, sand wedge and irons 2 to 9 which Seve used during the tournament have been divided into portions and melted – a cast piece was taken from each club so that each watch can be matched to whichever club was used in its construction, a detail which will be appreciated by fans of the player.

Fifty pieces of the Jaermann & Stübi Seve Ballestreros II will be made.  Each individually numbered piece will also be engraved on the caseback with the details of the club used in its creation and will include a certificate of authenticity signed by the player.

Popularity: 9% [?]