Corum chose to unveil their latest version of the Corum Admiral’s Cup Tides 48 at the prestigious Salon Belles Montres held in the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris last weekend.

Corum have a well established bond with the world of sailing, one which has seen the Admiral’s Cup evolve from the elegant Carré case-shape of the 1960′s to the chunky instantly recognisable rounded 12-sided case of today.  The Admiral’s Cup Tides or “Marées” was first launched in 1993 and was developed with the assistance of the Geneva Astronomical Observatory and the Hydrographic and Oceanographic Service of the French Navy.  Functions of the Tides 48 include tide times, strength of currents and strength and size of tides.  If you wear this piece when you set out to sea, calibrate it properly and pay attention to the indications then this watch will be your sailor’s friend.  If you run aground while wearing this watch maybe you should quit sailing and take up golf.

The latest edition of the Admiral’s Cup Tides 48 is naturally a 48mm piece, constructed from either titanium or 18ct red gold.  The dial has been refreshed, gone are the outsize Arabic  “60″ and “30″ numerals of previous editions and the colourful pennant hour markers have for this piece been toned down to monochrome.

The Corum Admiral’s Cup Tides 48 2010

The sub-dials have been tidied up and the ingenious addition of transparent hour and minute hands is both functional and fabulous.  At the 12 o’clock position is the moonphase and tidal range indicator, the counter at 6 o’clock indicates tide times and over at 9 o’clock is the strength of current and tide position indicator.  A date aperture is at the 3 o’clock position.  Inside is the Corum C0277  tide movement with power reserve of 42 hours.

The Corum Admiral’s Cup Tides 48 comes presented on the sculpted Corum black rubber strap.

The 1960 Corum Admirals Cup

Popularity: 12% [?]

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the “Friends of  Paris Opera”, Vacheron Constantin present a very special and unique piece, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers”.

Preservation of applied arts is an integral part of the philosophy at Vacheron Constantin, a commitment evident in the brand’s Métiers d’Art collection.  The latest piece sets a new standard in what can be achieved in miniature Grand Feu enamel painting techniques.

The Masterwork of the collection the "Tribute to Famous Composers"

In 1963 the French Minister of Culture commissioned the Russian-born artist Marc Chagall to re-paint the 220 square metre ceiling of the Paris Opéra also known as Palais Garnier.  Taking one year to complete, he created a vividly colourful tribute to honour the greatest composers, a work split into five sections each featuring a dominant colour – blue, green, white, yellow and red.

For their Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris watch Vacheron Constantin achieved a seemingly impossible task – to reproduce Chagall’s entire artwork in miniature on an enamel dial measuring just 31mm.  The challenge took over three and a half months to complete using traditional techniques.  The result is beyond exquisite.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris

At the edge of the hand painted enamel dial tiny little Nymph heads each measuring 2mm (also a feature of the Palais ceiling) have been reproduced and the resplendent artwork is framed by a trim polished gold bezel.  Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s automatic Calibre 2460.

The collection will consist of 15 unique pieces.  The remaining 14 will be created over the next two years and each will honour one of the composers featured on the original ceiling painting.  The first piece in the collection featured here is quite literally priceless, it will not be sold and will remain part of the Vacheron Constantin collection.

Chagall's ceiling at l’Opéra de Paris

Popularity: 8% [?]

Cartier present a new limited edition watch to house their highly technical 9451 MC movement – the Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon Calibre 9451 MC.

At the SIHH 2010, Cartier unveiled the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon featuring the Calibre 9451 MC, a movement which the brand had spent five years perfecting.   Whereas that piece, available in both pink gold and white gold versions was classical and elegant the lastest release is like a bigger, bolder cousin, a very masculine piece which should dispel any notion that Cartier just make girly stuff.

The Calibre 9451 MC relocates the Tourbillon carriage to the centre of the movement which provides it with a unique rotational axis -  a construction which required a re-designed gear train.  For visual effect and a “we can therefore we will” ethos the balance staff and escapement wheel staff are located to the side of the carriage in a linear position instead of on the same rotational axis as the carriage.  The Tourbillon carriage itself is positioned on the dial above the movement with a once per minute revolution and the arrow-shaped balance bridge serves as a seconds indicator.

The Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon Calibre 9451 MC

Invented more that 200 years ago, the Tourbillon counters the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage.  Basically the Tourbillon consists of a mobile carriage which carries the escapement, the balance and the spring assembly components.  The cage or carriage will usually complete one revolution in a period of time, usually one minute and in doing so will compensate for the change in position of the timepiece i.e. the fact that it is on your wrist and you are moving about.  Quality and construction of modern day mechanical movements mean that a Tourbillon is technically no longer needed to enhance accuracy, however the Tourbillon remains a tricky thing to construct, watch lovers remain fascinated by Tourbillons and watchmakers remain focused on improving the design of this micro mechanical wonder.  It is a mesmerising feature which should not be hidden from view – if your watch has one it will usually appear where it can be appreciated, a symbol of watchmaking prowess and your horological good taste.  However do memorise what the little thing actually does, just in case you are asked……..

The Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon Calibre 9451 MC

This splendid watch measures a generous 47mm but thanks to its titanium construction should be wrist-friendly.  It has sapphire crystal front and back and water resistance to 30 metres.  The Astrotourbillon movement is manual winding with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

Presented on a black alligator strap, the Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon Calibre 9451 MC is a limited edition of 100 pieces.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Stepan Sarpaneva presents a new DLC coated version of his stunning Konona K2 named KAMMOS in honour of the “Polar Night” during which the sun barely rises for more than 5o days in the most northernly parts of his native country Finland.

Finland  – the most sparsely populated country in the E.U.  and not a country which you would expect to associate with creative and original watchmaking.  It is a curious fact that Finland has produced a succession of F1 drivers – Keke Rosberg, Mika Häkkinen, Heikki Kovalainen, Kimi Räikkönen and don’t get me started on rally drivers, from Ari Vatanen to Mikko Hirvonen the country is surely a big bubbling melting pot of automotive talent.  Why?  Maybe the challenging forest roads and the fact that young Finns have to sit a proper driving test, forget 3-point turns, they have to prove that they can handle a power slide on icy terrain before they can pass,  is perhaps the reason why Finland has such an enviable racing driver heritage, but watchmaking?  Thanks to the world famous School of Watchmaking in Tapiola the Finns also have that niche covered.  Two rising stars of Independent Watchmaking, Kari Voutilainen and Stepan Sarapaneva are graduates.

The Sarpaneva Korona K2 KAAMOS is like all the watches in the Sarpaneva collection designed and created by Stepan and is adventurous and beautiful.  The characteristic sculpted case is particularly suited to its dark, shadowy DLC coating, the end result is dramatic and daring.

Sarpaneva Korona K2 KAAMOS

The piece features a three-part dial and date disc, its darkness illuminated by black rhodium-plated hands which along with the indexes have had a liberal luminous coating applied.  This is a stunning dial design, an impressive spider’s web-like skeletonisation which will not appeal to the average watch fan, but of course this is not an average watch.  Beneath the durable DLC the watch is constructed from stainless steel and measures 42mm.  Inside is a Soprod A10 Calibre automatic movement with a power reserve of 42 hours, modified to house the Sarpaneva see-through date disc and decorated with perlage.

The Sarpaneva Korona K2 KAAMOS comes presented on a leather strap.

Sarpaneva Korona K2 KAAMOS

Popularity: 27% [?]

Girard Perregaux present a new model in the build up to the Salon Internationale de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) 2011 – the Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds.  The latest model represents the 1966 Collection, which celebrates a time when the brand received recognition for their research and development of high frequency movements beautifully.

Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds

The piece features an enamel dial created in the totally traditional Grand Feu technique reminiscent of classical pocket watches.  Created using fine powders which are applied then fired using high temperatures it is a process which can perplex even the most patient of Master dial makers, but is one which produces the most pure and pristine of dials  – a beauty which is  unattainable by any other method. Further traditional touches are the blued feuille-shaped hour and minute hands and the blued seconds hand on the subdial at the 6 o’clock position.  The little red “60″ on the small seconds dial is the only feature which rebels from the overall classical styling of this elegant piece.

Inside is a new automatic movement, a modified version of the Girard Perregaux Calibre 3300, its traditional decorative techniques of Côtes de Genève and Perlage visable through the sapphire case back.  Available in 40mm pink gold or white gold case, the Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds is presented on an alligator strap.

The Girard Perregaux 1966 Small Seconds

Popularity: 8% [?]

Maurice Lacroix release a new dial colour for their classical Pontos portfolio – the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Jours Date Blue Dial.

Blue – the official colour of the Conservative Party in the UK, the preferred colour of Corporate America, symbol of trust, loyalty and sincerity.  In F1 a waved blue flag tells the driver of a lapped car to move aside and let the faster car through, on a beach a blue flag tells of its high environmental standards.  You are twice as likely to be bitten by a mosquito when wearing blue, and if you are the boss of a luxury Swiss Watch Manufacture twice as likely to consider adding a blue dial watch to your collection, if this year’s new releases are anything to go by – blue dials are more popular than ever.

The latest Pontos Day/Date watch features a particularly rich “solar” blue dial, sun-brushed to catch the light and perfectly framed by the polished bezel and rounded Pontos case shape.  Elongated hour markers and a combination of dial surface finishing along with an inner chapter ring add interest to this rather elegant piece.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Jours Date

There is something satisfyingly old fashioned about a watch dial which displays the day of the week in its own aperture.  Of course in this media-driven age few need a reminder of what day of the week it is, after all there is an “app” to meet almost every need.  I know of no-one but myself who uses a calendar in the traditional way, marking off each day with a large “X” in an almost childlike manner.  In this piece the  Day and Date apertures at 12 and 6 o’clock each have their own “metal stamped” slice of the dial which emphasise the functions beautifully and produce a slightly 3D effect.

The movement is the ML 09 self-winding Calibre with hand decorated  Côtes de Genève and Perlage, viewable through the exhibition caseback. Power reserve is 38 hours and the piece is water resistant to 50m.

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos Jours Date with blue dial is presented on a black crocodile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.

Maurice Lacroix Pontos Jours Date

Popularity: 17% [?]

Greubel Forsey collected the L’Aiguille d’Or or “Golden Hand”, recognised to be the most prestigious of all the industry’s awards at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève held tonight at the Grand Théâtre de Genève.  Their winning piece, the Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique is a superb piece of horological engineering, released in an ultra exclusive edition of just 22 pieces and one which we reviewed earlier this year here.

The Greubel Forsey Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique

Other winners at the event were:

• The Special Jury Prize AHCI – Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants
• Ladies Watch Prize – The Van Cleef & Arpels Le Pont des Amoureux (a must-have for all true romantics)
• Men’s Watch Prize – The Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral
• Jewellery Watch Prize – Chopard’s High Jewellery Owl Watch
• The Design and Concept Watch Prize – The MB&F  Horological Machine N°4 Thunderbolt
• Complicated Watch Prize – FP Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance (we predicted he would not go home empty-handed in a previous article.
• The Prize for Sports Watch  – Seiko’s Spring Drive Spacewalk Commemorative Edition
• La Petite L’Aiguille or “Small Hand” – TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronograph
• The prize for best Watchmaker – Jean-François Mojon
• Public prize – The Vacheron Constantin Historique Ultra-fine 1955

This was the event’s 10th Anniversary and in celebration a new category, La Petite L’Aiguille was added to be awarded to the best watch which retails at under 5,000 CHF.

If you are lucky enough to be in Paris between Nov 26th and Nov 28th you can view all the prize winners and nominated watches from the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie at the Salon Belles Montres exhibition to be held at the Carrousel du Louvre.

Popularity: 6% [?]

TW Steel present a new piece in tribute to the legendary F1 and IndyCar racer – the TW Steel Emerson Fittipaldi Signature Edtion.  The watch forms part of the Grandeur Tech collection, boldly styled, technical and modern.  The brand have a strong involvement in Formula One as timing partner of the Renault F1 team and if you watch BBC’s coverage of the sport, look closely – the brand have “scooped” almost the whole BBC F1 team, David Coulthard, Eddie Jordan and Lee McKenzie are all TW Steel ambassadors.  The celebratory Fittipaldi watch is available in two sizes, big and bigger.

The watchcases of  TW Steel’s portfolio are constructed from high grade steel, for this piece a liberal coating of black PVD results in a boldly dark design.  Two versions are available, 45mm and 48mm.  Emerson Fittipaldi collaborated on the project and his wish for his beloved Brazilian heritage to be represented is displayed through touches of yellow, on the hands and on the “pillars” which join the bezel to the caseback.   The piece is powered by a Miyota high precision Chrono movement.  For a tribute edition the “Emerson” in the Emerson piece is fairly subtle.  His name appears in yellow on the tachymeter ring, a little chequered flag appears at the dial centre and the caseback features his signature and career achievements.

TW Steel Emerson Fittipaldi Edition Watch

Presented on the 40th anniversary of the Brazilian’s first F1 win, TW Steel have gained an iconic brand ambassador in Emerson Fittipaldi.  Known in the pit lane for his calmness and good natured humour, he was hired by the visionary Colin Chapman in 1970 as an understudy to the Team Lotus drivers.  When Jochen Rindt was killed in practice for the Monza Grand Prix the same year, the team’s other driver John Miles felt unable to continue and quit F1 forever.  The youthful Fittipaldi was left to take the seat as the team’s main driver.  He became World Champion with Lotus in 1972 and again with McLaren in 1974.  His transition to IndyCar racing produced another championship, in 1989 – one of the few drivers to achieve championship status in both disciplines.

Emerson Fittipaldi on his way to victory at Watkins Glen in 1970

Emerson Fittipaldi remains involved in F1 to this day and appears in the pit lane as a much loved and respected individual, recognisable by his “rock star” side burns, still handsome and still charismatic.

The TW Steel Emerson Fittipaldi Edition comes presented on a chunky silicon rubber strap.

Emerson Fittiipaldi and his TW Steel Signature Watch

Popularity: 18% [?]

JeanRichard present the Diverscope Titanium, the piece forms part of their sports portfolio which also includes the Aquascope, Chronoscope and 2 TimeZone pieces.

This latest release, as its name suggests has a case constructed from titanium, sand-blasted for a bold, matt, tactile finish – exceptionally light, tough and stylish.  Everything about this watch is chunky – a satisfyingly generous 43mm cushion-shaped case, outsize Arabic number 12 and big rectangle hour markers, yet the designers at JeanRichard manage to tame these hardy elements to produce an elegantly handsome piece which would not be out of place under a fine tailored cuff.

JeanRichard Diverscope Titanium

The JeanRichard Diverscope line of watches features two crowns, the one at 3 o’clock sets the time and date and the other one, at the 9 o’clock position adjusts to record the dive time on the internal bidirectional bezel which is tucked safely beneath thicker than average sapphire crystal.  As a safety measure,  re-adjustment is only possible by unscrewing the crowns.

The JeanRichard brand is a historic name re-awakened by the Sowind Group and it is with their support, financial and technical which has enabled JeanRichard to produce their first manufactured movement, the JR1000 first presented in 2004.  This self-winding mechanical calibre is at the heart of the brand’s portfolio, including this piece.  Sowind may have provided some of the credentials needed to enable initial production of the JR1000 Calbire  but development is on-going, a modified version of the same movement provides the power for the very tasty Bressel 1665 Chronograph Foudroyante Ago – a tribute piece to the “daddy-of-all” motorbike racers Giacomo Agostini.  Incidently to add further kudos to this youthful watch brand they are also associated with MV Agusta (an partnership guaranteed to induce a hushed reverence amongst bike fans).

The JeanRichard Diverscope Titanium model comes presented on anthracite fabric and black rubber straps.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Bulgari present a new piece part of the Bulgari Daniel Roth collection – the Bulgari Grande Lune.

The piece features a two-tone dial, part white lacquer and part black satin finished.  At the left of the dial is the unique seconds indicator – three arms or hands which spin on an axis, each of which cover 20 seconds.  Between 5 and 6 o’clock is the circular date indicator and the moonphase in a crescent-shaped aperture takes the form of a richly golden moon against a starry night sky.

The Bulgari Grande Lune

The Bulgari Grande Lune is powered by the Daniel Roth Calibre 2300 movement which is hand finished to an exquisite standard.  The moonphase is an extremely accurate one requiring adjustment only once every 125 years.  Presented in a 44mm 18 carat rose gold elliptical case, the case shape synonymous with Daniel Roth, the model is fitted with an alligator strap.

When a young man chooses a career path and completes the education required for his chosen trade a few years of  “work experience” will generally be required before the individual will feel (if he has the ambition) qualified enough to reach the next stage, owning his own business.  Young watchmakers also conform to this genre, after a few years extensive training the decision must be taken, is it enough to continue anonymously creating designs or refining calibre components for your employer’s benefit or is it now the time found your own company which will have your own name on the dial and your own signature designs finally showcased as your own creations.  The rewards for success are high, industry awards, accolades and respect but the watchmaking business is just that -  a business and like any other, profit not praise is the currency needed for survival.

Master Watchmakers are a unique breed, totally focused on pushing the horological boundaries to the limit. Sadly artistic flair and mechanical genius are not often accompanied by business acumen and many of these talented individuals find themselves subject to acquisitions by retail giants.  Relinquishment of their family name along with the unique design features perfected over the years must surely be the most pungent of bitter pills to swallow.

In 1989 Daniel Roth set up his own watchmaking business and to house his perfectly finished movements and dials, created the unique and beautiful Double Elipse elongated watchcase.  The collections were a success, his reputation established -  then his distributing partner, unable to obtain the required bigger slice of the profits, dropped the brand.  Enter Singapore retail giant The Hour Glass who then became victims of the Asian crisis and sold in its entirety (the new owners wanted no less than 100%) the Daniel Roth brand.  Daniel Roth, the man saw his brand and family name leave his control as the  Bulgari luxury goods house assumed ownership.

Earlier this year Bulgari took the decision to integrate the previously independent Daniel Roth brand within the activities of the main watchmaking sector, effectively the end of the Daniel Roth watch, which now becomes the Bulgari Daniel Roth collection and soon many believe will disappear completely.  So, should Bulgari be critisized for this latest development? After all the Daniel Roth name has been their property for years.  Surely without regular input from its creator the watch collection becomes merely a brand name for a portfolio where only the “spirit” of the creator remains.  Perhaps it is true to say that Bulgari who acquired the Roth name to enable them to progress through to the upper echelon of watchmaking have done nothing wrong.  Bulgari have certainly remained true to the values instilled by Daniel Roth and the pieces which today bear his name albeit secondary on the dial to that of Bulgari are still examples of fine craftsmanship and innovation.

As I have mentioned, watchmaking is a business, but it is unlike any other.  Of course the giants of the industry are needed they provide global distribution and advertising for their  brands, some of which will seduce new clients who will become the watch collectors of the future, enticing the next generation to move away from virtual app-style timekeeping will need big names with big budgets, but Independent Watchmaking simply must be preserved.  Before the current economic crisis brand names of the past including Bovet, Jean Dunard and Badollet were re-awakened by businessmen and craftsmen intent on preserving names which had became dormant, it is the fear of many that under the umbrella of a major player such as Bulgari, that once a coveted name such as Daniel Roth is gone it will be lost forever.

Daniel Roth, Master Watchmaker resolved never again to be answerable to or controlled by anyone other than himself and now produces a limited number of timepieces each year under the brand name Jean Daniel Nicolas.

Popularity: 6% [?]

During the build up to the Brazilian Grand Prix, Hublot unveil two new pieces, the King Power Ayrton Senna and the King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna.  Previous Senna tribute pieces by Hublot have formed part of the Big Bang collection, but since the release of the King Power F1 to celebrate the brand becoming F1′s Official Watchmaker, it is a natural progression that these special timepieces should now form part of the King Power portfolio.

Recently I had a conversation with a young F1 fan about the current F1 season, and how exciting it is that the Driver’s Championship is still open as the last few races approach – obvious comparisons to the Prost/Senna end-of-season championship battles were made, and it was with great sadness that I realised that the young lad had never witnessed Senna race, had never seen him animate a qualifying session to claim pole position in the last few seconds.  In 1994 when the world mourned the premature death of Ayrton Senna even those who did not follow F1 racing quickly realised that someone very special had been lost.  This year Senna would have celebrated his fiftieth birthday.

The King Power Ayrton Senna measures 48mm and as you would expect the materials used are cutting-edge – carbon fibre and ceramic bezel with titanium screws, a 48mm carbon fibre case and a matt black carbon dial with a very trick power reserve indicator comprising green, blue and red dots an ingenious design which takes F1 inspired themes to a whole new level.

The Hublot King Power Senna - note the super cool power reserve indicator

The movement is the Hublot Calibre HUB4247 with Split Seconds Chronograph function.  The sapphire crystal is stamped with the signature of Ayrton Senna in yellow matching the hands and indices in this otherwise boldly dark timepiece.  The King Power Ayrton Senna comes presented on a black Nomex and rubber strap.

THe Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna

The King Power Tourbillon Ayrton Senna is powered by the Hublot Calibre  HUB6300, a column-wheel chronograph with clutch tourbillon escapement coupled directly onto the cage.  Again high-tech materials are used – carbon fibre case, ceramic bezel with circular satin finishing and titanium screws.  The power reserve is positioned over at the 9 o’clock position.

The Hublot King Power Ayrton Senna Tourbillon

This very special piece will be an exclusive edition of just 10, each will feature a caseback engraving of one of Ayrton’s career achievements chosen for inclusion by his family.  The King Power Ayrton Senna Tourbillon comes presented on a striking yellow strap with green and blue stitching in honour of his nationality.

In his lifetime Senna was an extremely generous individual donating large parts of his fortune to help the poor in Brazil, especially children and young people.  He was an astute businessman with a flair for marketing his own brand “Senna”.  On his death, this charitable work continued with the founding by his family of the “Instituto Ayrton Senna” which continues to transform the lives of thousands.  It is in keeping with this spirit of generousity that Hublot collaborate with the institution to create the Senna timepieces and share with them the profits.

Popularity: 17% [?]

Harry Winston, jeweller to the stars, supplier of diamonds to divas and red carpet rocks and also in more recent times creators of timepieces and not just sparkly ones either, serious pieces for the discerning collector.  The brand now present a new addition to their Ocean Collection, a rather tasty new Ocean Chronograph.

The dial of this splendid piece features an off-centre hours and minutes display at the top of the dial and a trio of retrograde indications comprising a large arc at 6 o’clock for the chronograph seconds, 30-minute counter at 4 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 8 o’clock.  A bold, broad section of Côtes de Genève takes up the middle of the dial……..off-centre hours and minutes dial?  Three retrogrades and Geneva Stripes?  You couldn’t visualise it but the design works perfectly.

The Harry Winston Ocean Chronograph

Blue tones on the hands, on the screws which secure the hours and minutes dial and on the little spinning Ninja Shuriken (just above 6 o’clock) are subtle yet rich.  For this piece the hours and minutes dial has markers in place of numerals adding the required touch of plainness to the upper dial. The watchcase measures 44mm and is available in white gold or red gold versions.   No information on the movement but I assume it is the Frédéric Piguet Calibre 1185 used in previous Ocean Chrono models, water resistant to 100m and with power reserve of 40 hours.  The new Harry Winston Ocean Chronograph comes presented on a black alligator strap.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Paul Picot, the Le Noirmont based watch brand present a new piece in their signature Atelier collection, the Atelier Slate 42mm.

A challenging economic climate often results in the survival of the fittest and the watch industry is no exception.  Responses to recent lean times have meant subtle changes in direction for many brands, some are re-visiting classic vintage pieces (yes a core trend, but one which also reduces the design budget), others are producing less of the haute horlogerie pieces and more entry and mid level models.  During the last watch industry crisis when the popularity of quartz movements changed everything, Mario Boiocchi remained stubbornly committed to traditional mechanical watchmaking and in 1976 when others were ducking and diving he created the Paul Picot watch brand.

The Paul Picot portfolio consists of the distinctive Technograph models which feature a striking 3D dial composition with a raised central dial with subdials tucked in behind it on either side and the C-Type divers watch collection which includes an impressive carré version.  It is the rounded classical Atelier collection however which remains at the heart of the brand’s success.

The piece shown here forms part of the 2010 Atelier collection.  Crafted from 18 carat rose gold, the 42mm case features traditional fluting on the rim and a dial created from ultra-thin natural slate.  It takes an impressively patient craftsman to work with slate, and not suprisingly the reject rate during production is extraordinarily high.  Each section of slate which survives the process forms a 0.6mm thin highly original dial, as this is a natural material no two dials will be the same.

Inside is the Paul Picot Calibre PP1400 automatic movement with 42 hours and C.O.S.C. certification and the piece comes presented on a Louisiana leather strap.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Blancpain celebrate their signature divers watch with a unique exhibition at their boutique on the Place Vendôme, Paris and with a new watch – the Fifty Fathoms “Tribute to Fifty Fathoms”.

The Fifty Fathoms divers watch was created in the 1950′s, designed for and with the assistance of the elite French Navy divers, “Les Nagers de Combat”.  Their requirements were a sturdy, resistant, reliable and highly legible divers wristwatch thus the Fifty Fathoms was born, its bold yet functional epoxy unidirectional bezel and super-luminous chunky hands and markers were originally safety features yet they have become iconic features of the collection.  The watch was not initially meant for the commercial sector, but the new popularity of recreational deep-sea diving presented a lucrative market-place so the Fifty Fathoms destined for use on civilian wrists featured a “strike-through” version of the universal symbol for radioactivity to differentiate these models from those used by the military which used dangerous materials to achieve the readability needed for covert missions.

The Fifty Fathoms Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Watch

The Fifty Fathoms Tribute piece measures 45mm, is made from steel and has all the features loved by the “Fathomisti” – the robust hands and outsize hour markers, the unidirectional rotating bezel with the raised notches and is almost true to the original 1960′s piece from which its design takes inspiration.  The movement is the Blancpain Calibre 1315 with 120 hours power reserve and anti-magnetic shield.  Water resistance is to 300m and the piece comes presented on Blancpain’s black sail rubber lined canvas strap

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Exhibition

For those who prefer a visual history, the brand have created an exhibition of more than 60 pieces which showcases the Fifty Fathoms from its creation in 1953 to the 2010 models taking place at its Parisian boutique.  The event features pieces borrowed from collectors all over the world – real watches owned by real people, not just “museum” pieces, so expect scratches,dents and a unique overview of the collection.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Omega revive a 1950′s classic and present the 2010 Ladymatic collection.

The 2010 Ladymatic was first launched in 1955 and its classy refined case shape became a prominent part of the brands’s portfolio, loved for its style and also for the fact that it had a mechanical heart – it was powered by the brand’s smallest automatic movement created exclusively for use in the Omega ladies watch collection.

The 2010 Ladymatic  is available in a considerable array of editions, 18 carat red gold, 18 carat yellow gold or stainless steel case,  polished or diamond set bezel, white mother-of-pearl or black lacquer dial, diamond hour markers or none at all – in true Omega ladies collection tradition there is quite simply one to suit every taste.

The Omega Ladymatic 2010

Do not be fooled by the fashionista-pleasing selection however, this watch features the Omega Co-Axial Calibre 8520/8521 movement which is being gradually phased into the brands whole portfolio, having been tweaked and refined in preparation for mass-production.  It is not the first ladies watch to benefit from the “precision stability and durability” of the groundbreaking Calibre which was pioneered by George Daniels, the Omega Aqua Terra ladies watches also feature the Co-Axial movement and it is refreshing to note that the brand are not exercising a “gents collection only” policy.

The Omega Ladymatic 2010

The piece measures 34mm and the unique Omega “supernova” pattern which flows out from the dial centre adds the right touch of glamour which ever dial edition you might choose.   A perfectly placed little date window is located at the 3 o’clock position. The Omega Ladymatic comes presented on a choice of black or white alligator strap or case matching bracelet.

Popularity: 13% [?]