The Christophe Claret Adagio is the second timepiece presented by the Master Watchmaker.  His first, the DualTow was a bold and powerful debut, a highly technical piece featuring a number of complications, a synopsis of his skills gained thus far.  His second piece, the Adagio oozes refinement and is so different from its predecessor that were it not for M.Claret’s name on the dial you would be inclined to dispute its genealogy.

Christophe Claret is a man who considers the tourbillon to be an entry level complication.  One of his specialities is the development and manufacture of chiming watches of the purest sound. The Cathedral Gongs contained within the Adagio’s Calibre SLB88 strike the hours, quarters and minutes on demand without the slightest vibration thanks to a patented system.  On the dial is a second time zone at 2 o’clock with day and night indicator, a seconds display at 9 o’clock and large date at 6 o’clock.  The hammers and gongs acoustically signal the hours with a low pitch, the quarter-hours with alternating low and high-pitched tones and the minutes with a high pitched tone.  Clumsy fingers will not be an issue, the clever winding stem on the Adagio will disconnect when the mainspring is fully wound.

Christophe Claret has been a principle developer and manufacturer of high-end complicated movements for some of the most prestigious brand names in the business for more than twenty years; that he considers the production of pieces such as this one as a mere diversification to the recent economic downturn is somewhat alluring.  His talents of Master Watchmaker are combined with astonishing business acumen, strengths which do not always go hand-in-hand.  His strategy for the future includes investment in the development of pioneering machinery so when eventually equilibrium returns, his company will be already be equipped with the tools necessary.

The Christophe Claret Adagio is available in 44mm 18 carat white gold, 18 carat rose gold or platinum case with hand-guilloché, gemset or rhodiumed anthracite gold dial.  Production will be limited to 8 pieces of each dial and case version.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Vacheron Constantin had an extremely successful SIHH 2011, one which allowed the world’s oldest watch manufacture to fill up their order books and look forward to an extremely productive year.  Two new in-house Calibres were unveiled, one of which powers the unique Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time model.  The piece displays all of the world’s time zones, 37 instead of the usual 24, and is therefore the first to include all those cities with 1/2 and 1/4 hour off-sets.  The result is a piece with a busy yet beautiful dial, a superb study of world time.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time

At the centre of the dial is a sapphire dial which rotates with the hands and is shaded to represent day and night around the globe, beneath this is a metal dial with a global map displaying the names of 37 cities, black for full time zone, red for fractional off-set time zones.  Rotating around this two-part centre is a metal chapter ring with applied gold hour markers.

If it sounds complex that’s because it is.  It took the Master Watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin three years to perfect the time module and incorporate it into their Calibre 2460 thus producing the Calibre 2460WT.  To account for the fractional time zones the minute hand is linked to the time zone disc, whereas other time zone watches only require the hour hand to be linked to the time zone disc.   Their efforts ensure ease of use for the wearer, all indications are adjusted using the crown.  The reference time is lined up with the black triangle at the 6 o’clock position and can be read using the hour hand or the 24 hour disc, all other time zones can be read simultaneously.  Wear this piece and you will never phone at an unreasonable hour no matter where you or they might be, no excuse.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time measures 42.5mm across and has a power reserve of 40 hours.  The piece will be initially only be available with an 18 carat rose gold watchcase with other versions to follow.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Initially, I thought ‘no, don’t post the YouTube video, folk will think I don’t know what I’m talking about and I’m cheaping it by not having to explain. Write a feature instead.’ Well, you know, the first time we see something, maybe it is reasonable – and more honest (to myself anyway) -  to say to yourself  ‘OK, I don’t have an in-depth understanding of what I’m looking at. I can see what it is, I can see what it does, I can see how it does it,’ and I can then sit back in my desk chair and still say ‘what kind of mind thinks that up!’

Yes, it’s the new Urwerk UR-110 Torpedo, the latest offering from Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, so by definition it is going to be a little more than out of the ordinary, and true to their style,  the guys do not disappoint.

I have also used their press release to provide the technical spec which you will find beneath the video, because, well, you’d imagine that the parents of this baby might be able to portray their vision in a more eloquent way than I – another guy with his slobbering jaw resting on his knees, coming to terms with what he’s just seen.

Urwerk Official Press Release:

“The UR-110 is a watch with attitude. From the base of its unusual asymmetrical case to the three
arrow-shaped “torpedoes” flying in formation with the mission of indicating the time, the UR-110 has
serious attitude.

Enveloped in a secure titanium case, planetary gearing keeps the three hour satellites in parallel
formation as they take turns to indicate the time as they pass the 60-minute track. An “Oil Change”
indicator alerts the user when it is time for a service; a “Day/Night” indicator helps keep track of
changing time zones; and twin turbines on the back minimize wear in the automatic winding system.
This new complication is made possible thanks to a construction with three levels of complexity
- A central carousel providing the complication with stability and equilibrium
- Planetary gearing assuring the parallel rotation of the three hour satellites as they orbit the
dial
- Three counter-rotating hour modules – each comprising an hour satellite, minute hand and
counter balance – are each mounted on a planetary gear. These three modules are in
constant counter-rotation to counter the direction of rotation of the central carousel.

The UR-110 continues URWERK’s radical tradition of telling the time using orbiting satellite
complications. In the UR-110, the time is always shown on the right side of the watch. The satellites
follow a vertical line, graded from 0 to 60 minutes, in a downward motion. The ingenuity of this
layout lies in allowing the wearer to view the time discreetly and elegantly without the need to pull a
cuff or sleeve back.

“The UR-110 is a logical evolution of our creations. We imagined time as a ‘silent journey’ where the
hour satellites make a full rotation of the dial. But it is a velvet revolution; between rotation and
counter rotations the effect is subtle and fluid. There are things happening on the dial that are not
obvious at first glance. Everything looks normal; however, in fact they are everything but.” says
Martin Frei.
“The beauty of the UR-110 is in its apparent simplicity. The development of UR-110 mobilized our
entire team for nearly two years. Among the challenges posed by this complication was working out
the optimal architecture for supporting the central carousel and the rotating hour modules. We
finally opted for a technical solution that is radically different from any of our other creations:
instead of ball bearings, a fixed axis runs the full height of the watch, providing maximum rigidity and
minimum play. The whole complication is perfectly balanced on this axis ” explains Felix
Baumgartner.
The UR-110 is a timepiece in which its technology can be appreciated though the large panoramic
sapphire crystal. As well as indicating the hours and minutes, the UR-110 also features a Control
Board on the dial side with indicators for “Day/Night” and “Oil Change” – URWERK’s service interval
display, as well as small seconds on a sub dial.
The colour of metals prevails on the dial, a colour given pride of place on the predominately titanium
case. The UR-110 is sober with few frills; its ornaments only apparent in the subtle perfection of its
fine finishing. Turning the watch over, the titanium back encloses the innovative automatic winding
system regulated by dual turbines.
The UR-110, micro-mechanics have never looked so good!

Technical Specifications UR-110
Movement
Calibre: UR 9.01 mechanical, automatic winding
Balance: Monometallic
Jewels: 46
Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power: Single barrel
Power reserve: 39 hours
Winding system: Uni-directional rotor regulated by double turbines
Finish: Matting, circular graining and diamond-cuts
Indications
Satellite complication with rotating hour/minute modules mounted on planetary gears
Control Board: “Day/Night” indicator ; “Oil Change” alerting service intervals and small
seconds
Case
Case in Grade 5 titanium with bezel in 316L stainless steel
Dimensions: 47mm X 51mm X 16mm
Two position crown with integrated protection.
Water resistance: 3 ATM”

Popularity: 9% [?]

Panerai release the  Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo.  It’s not the only piece unveiled by Officine Panerai at SIHH 2011, and many would argue that it’s not the pick of the crop of their new releases, but with a watchcase constructed from bronze it is surely the most unusual.  Known as the PAM00382, it is symbolic of all things pelagic, a piece so aquatic in appearance that you can almost sense the saltiness of the sea.  If King Neptune wore a watch then this would be it.

If you know Panerai, then you’ll know this model, it has all the safety hardware – unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for dive time, the outsize security brake lever-locked crown, the raised studs on the bezel.  That bronze case ( ….sure to produce a patina which would impress even “Old Man” Harrison) has a tactile brushed finish and after a series of 44mm models across the Panerai portfolio big is back, this one is a cuff-busting 47mm across.

The stunning yet subtle green dial continues the aquatic theme, displaying by far the best Luminor dial layout – bar-markers and dots, with the small seconds at 9 o’clock and date window at 3 o’clock, another fine example of a reassuringly retro + refreshingly revamped mix which Panerai execute so brilliantly.

The  piece uses the formidable P9000 Calibre with its chunky 3/4 plate construction visible through the caseback.  Sensitive skin? fear not, a titanium ring frames the sapphire crystal on the caseback so no nasy rash.  The only possible problem with this big boy might be that weighty bronze case.

The Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo is a limited edition of 1000 pieces and comes presented on a vintage style leather strap with a spare strap and the tools required to fit it also supplied.

Popularity: 10% [?]

I know, I know, I haven’t been prolific this month, but I have been working tirelessly (as we do) on bringing our humble netzine on a few steps, but tonight amid much joy and celebration, I take to the keys once more as we bring you news, nay, confirmation of what you already knew by visiting TheWatchPress.

Yes friends, it’s official. The wraps have officially been swept off the latest incarnation of Linde Werdelin’s sensational Spido collection, in the guise of the awesome 3-Dimensional SpidoSpeed Chronograph which, and although we don’t like to make much fuss about ourselves here in TheWatchPress Towers, we guessed right first when we initially reviewed the two jigsaw puzzle-like ‘snipshot’ teasers of the watch which had been sent out by Linde Werdelin last month.

The intriguingly titled Series ‘A’ SpidoSpeed Chronograph is an exercise in the art of tasteful and modern skeletonisation with virtually every element of the watch, from the 32-piece microbille (or sandblasted) steel case through to the ten-layer (!) dial reduced back to the bare minimum of material while yet retaining the aura of ‘presence’, of being a substantial thing indeed. I mean, it doesn’t have the fragile, delicate characteristics of many skeletonised pieces – it’s anything but delicate or fragile, in fact not even close!

Cues obviously abound from it’s forerunner the SpidoLite such as the ‘vented’ bezel and it’s amazing ability for the watch to act as a carriage for the Linde Werdelin Reef and Rock activity instruments which can quickly be attached to the body of the watch, extending the functionality beyond the realms of what seems possible. Groundbreaking.

But being a chronograph, the company’s main men Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin looked back to the roots of such a complication, for it’s natural application was after all to measure elapsed time, and nowhere was such a function more suited than to the men and women whose holy grail it was to knock a few tenths of seconds off the existing lap record as they flung their tuned machines on the limits of adhesion around a racing circuit.

So the new Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Chronograph possesses many motor racing inspired features such as the black galvanic base dial with perlage (an effect much loved in racing wherever there was a spare inch of exposed stainless steel to be found) which underlies the opalin upper dial, containing the three subdials, which are themselves reminiscent of drilled ventillated brake discs, atop the outer minutes ring (opalin being the finish used for many years in dashboard dials). To cap off the racing theme, the strap features little round perforations à la the ubiquitous driver’s glove.

I digress. First impressions of the SpidoLite Chronograph are of a typically Linde Werdelin twist on ultra-modern watch design. Hailed by it’s creators as 3-Dimensional experience, it must truly effuse just such a sensation for as to consider the multi-layered construction, with the cutaway chassis which accomodate the chrono pushers and into which drops the central case element housing the Concepto 2251 automatic movement,  all sitting 15mm high on the wrist.

Turned over, and through the sapphire crystal caseback, the signed Spider Web skeletonised oscillating weight delivers drive to the movement with every pivotal swing.

The use of the term Series ‘A’ leaves us to imagine that the Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Chronograph will be the first of goodness knows how many subsequent editions, but with this one being released in a production of only 100 pieces and the famous LW marketing machine ratcheting up it’s gears, demand will surely far outstrip availability.

There’s so much to look at, and I’ve just seen the freshly-released first images. I know that in the days to come, new aspects of this amazing machine will reveal themselves and I’ll find myself scurrying back to my keyboard to edit or update something I’ve written here. Mind you, it wouldn’t be before time that I did….

Popularity: 11% [?]

Piaget are so skillful in the art of creating ultra-thin mechanical watch movements that they make the process seem almost effortless, it is simply impossible to review a Piaget piece without measuring their achievements in millimetres.  With their latest release – the brand’s first Ultra-Thin Automatic Tourbillon (with a movement thickness of just 5.55mm)  they manage to push even their own boundaries just a little bit further.

The new Calibre 2270P uses a combination of the Calibre 600P, released in 2003 ( the world’s thinnest shaped tourbillon movement at  3.5mm) and the Calibre 1208P released in 2010 (the world’s thinnest automatic movment at 2.35mm) along with Piaget’s masterly knack for micro mechanics in its creation.  The resulting piece has a watchcase of just 10.4mm, but it’s no svelte and skinny lightweight piece – this one has poise and presence thanks to that handsome cushion-shaped Emperador case.

The Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin

The tourbillon carriage is positioned at 1 o’clock with the engraved micro rotor off-centred at 10 o’clock.  Hours and minutes are at 5 o’clock.  A new modern twist is provided by a laser guilloched sapphire crystal in place of a dial, adding depth and clarity to this remarkable piece.

The caseback is solid but with two openings, one for the power reserve indicator the other for the tourbillon carriage and is one which just begs to be admired, so beautiful that you’ll want to rest it on its side at your bedside every so often.

The Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin is available in 18 carat pink or white gold watchcase, measuring 46,5mm across.  Water resistance is to 30m and the piece is presented on a brown alligator strap with 18 carat gold folding clasp.

The Piaget Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Automatic Ultra-Thin

Popularity: 6% [?]

The horologic Master of Understatement has just pulled the covers off one of his latest creations in advance of this year’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

The new 2011 Richard Mille RM 028 Americas Diver is a 30-piece limited edition manufactured exclusively for the US and South American markets.

It’s an imposing instrument and unmistakably Richard Mille, despite it’s lesser-spotted round case which is cast in titanium with DLC coating and sits upon a natural rubber strap. Trademark Mille characteristics include the 3-dimensional aspect of the watch as you peer through what seems like layers of materials past the sapphire crystal, the crimson flange with recessed luminous dot markers, then the printed numerals, indices and other dial graphics, the rotating date ring which alligns beneath the aperture at the 7 and onwards into the depths of the skeletonised movement which itself looks like it’s very components have been salvaged from Terminator’s innards. I swear I saw something twitch like a hydraulic spasm just looking at it!

And then, as if not to be outdone, there’s the bezel. Strewn with twenty-two torque screws and boasting bold arabic numerals, it remains resolutely locked in place until the red arrow segment at the 12 o’clock position and it’s corresponding segment at the 30 are depressed in a finger and thumb pincer which releases the bezel and allows it to be rotated to the desired setting before locking in place once more.

As for it’s ‘dive’ credentials, well you’ll be reassured that your $82,000 watch has been put through it’s paces and comfortably conforms to the recognised ISO 9425 Diver’s Watch standard. The screw-in crown with it’s grippy rubber cladding adds to the overall viability of the watch as an instrument and it will function through to a depth of 300m.  The natural rubber strap nestles snugly against the case and as you pan out, all of the elements of the design combined effuse a robust, rugged and adventurous persona.

The Richard Mille RM028 Americas Diver won’t be to everyone’s taste, but then, as there will only be 30 examples it kind of deals with that problem quite niftily too! There won’t be anywhere near enough to go around and that only serves perpetuates the myth.

Popularity: 11% [?]