New from Antoine Preziuso is the “Power Inside”  Unlimited.  An unusual name for a watch perhaps?  Well this is an unusual watch created by one of the industry’s most accomplished watchmakers.

Antoine Preziuso is a bit of a master when it comes to creating timepieces.  When he graduated from the Geneva Watchmaking School he did so with the highest results.  When Antiquorum needed a guru to set up their first restoration and appraisal workshop they hired M. Preziuso.  When haute luxury goods brand Goldpfeil decided to dip a well pedicured toe into the balmy waters of horology, Antoine Preziuso was one of 7 AHCI members chosen to create their timepieces.  The brands who have called upon his services over the course of his career so far reads like a who’s who within the industry.

The “Power Inside” Unlimited is a bold and dramatic piece.  Against a backdrop of Côtes de Genève on the dial are chunky open-worked hands and a generous power reserve indicator with sun-burst decoration.

The power reserve in this piece is termed the “Energy Indicator Segment”, but regardless of the marketing blurb it is the dominant feature of this somewhat handsome watch.  A big red open-worked hand serves to indicate power graduations from “Down” to “Fine” animating the otherwise monochrome dial.  The case is 48mm stainless steel with a chunky sculptured bezel secured to the middle by 12 pillars and 24 screws.

The “Power Inside” Unlimited is a combination of textures, from the dial finishes right down to the carbon fibre/leather strap with its red stitching.  Inside is the APG Calibre 297.  Incidently that power reserve will run to 42 hours, just keep your good old proverbial energy segments moving.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Glashütte Original present the Glashütte Original Seventies Panorama Date, part of their new releases for 2011.

The Saxony brand are not exactly shy about releasing retro styles, their superb Senator Sixties Collection is an authentic glance back at the watch styles of the 1960′s, that most influential of decades.  As for the 1970′s, not everything was brown, orange and had long lapels.  Despite the questionable tailoring of that era wristwatches managed to maintain a certain level of elegance and decorum and the Seventies Panorama Date is a virtuous compendium of the best bits of what was on offer back then.

The case is polished and satin finished steel, TV-style in shape and reminiscent of  Genta’s Patek Nautilus.  On the dial are hours, minutes and seconds.  The applied indices are razor-sharp and the aptly named date window is more than ample.  Three versions are available, galvanised silver with matt finish, galvanised ruthenium with sunburst or graded shading blue dial.  That link bracelet is pure seventies, think Oyster, Omega – browse any vintage auction site and you’ll see similar, for this model Glashütte Original have created a patented closing and adjusting feature which is both secure and user friendly.

Inside is the in-house automatic Calibre 39-47 movement with hand engraved detail viewable through the domed crystal caseback.  No details on case size etc. is available but that’s only a minor detail, it’s a stunner.

Popularity: 16% [?]

Alpina, the Geneva-based brand were founded in 1883, yet a quick glance at their portfolio and you realise that their watches are modern, fresh and contemporary.  The Startimer Pilot Collection is new for 2011 and is “inspired by original Alpina designs from the 1920′s and 30′s”.  Part of the new range is a rather handsome chronograph model.  Matt black dial, generous white numerals and markers, the red triangle on the seconds hand – it’s all good.

The minute and seconds counters are located at 9 and 3 o’clock, overlaid on the dial, obscuring what lies beneath, adding depth.  The case is satin-finished stainless steel, 43mm with nicely proportioned pushers.  Inside is the automatic AL-860 chronograph movement.  A vintage feature of these pieces is the leather strap which closes on the front of the wrist rather than on the back or lower side – a steel bracelet is also available, but I’d bet the leather looks better.  All told, the Startimer Chronograph is a worthy rival to other pilot watches out there.   Still not convinced?  Alpina add further kudos to the collection by collaborating with both Cessna Aviation and PrivatAir on this project, buy one of these watches and a Cessna Citation Mustang scale model in PrivatAir livery will be included in the box.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Of course you will already know the Hermès brand.  From a heritage of producing saddlery and such-like for upper-class horsey types in Europe and beyond to signature scarves etc. for the privileged, you might think that owning a Hermès watch would be like a membership card for the Snooty Club who dine at Snobby-Ville.  However as it turns out, the Montre Hermès section of the group are quite serious about watch production and in 2008 the brand launched its first proprietary movement, the H1, developed with Fleurier-based Vaucher – a company part owned by Hermès.  Back in 1978 when Hermès created a designated watchmaking division, the first piece released was the Arceau, inspired by the shape of a stirrup.  The Arceau Grande Lune continues the theme with the addition of a moonphase module created for the piece by Dubois-Dépraz.

The classic features are still there, the distinctive case shape and lugs, a herringbone motif stamped onto the dial and the sloping numerals (if any of your friends poke fun at the upside down numbers on your watch dial – drop them they are philistines).  The moonphase is large-ish but sits nicely proportioned on the dial and is combined with a calendar display.  Day and month indications are located just below the Hermès logo. The piece is constructed from stainless steel and measures 43mm.  Two dial versions will be available, opaline silvered and galvanic black.  Both pieces will be presented on a matching alligator strap of the finest quality, after all it is a Hermès.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Eberhard & Co present a new piece, the Chrono 4 Géant Limited Edition.  The brand have been creating precision timekeepers since 1887, progressing to wristwatch chronographs just over twenty years later.  Their latest piece celebrates the founding year of the company and will be a limited edition of 1887 pieces.

Eberhard & Co’s Chrono 4 collection does for a chronograph dial what a straight-six does for an engine – presents itself in an orderly linear design.  The subdials of the Chrono 4 Géant watch line up neatly to count the minutes, hours, 24-hours and small seconds, and are displayed on a black/anthracite dial with a rather tasty Côtes de Genève central ring.  A tachometric scale is located on the inner bezel ring with a date window at 12 o’clock, just above that retro-tastic Eberhard logo.  Touches of red on the scale and hands animate this multi-layered fairly monochrome dial to perfection.

After all the recent articles here at the WatchPress about slimmed down watches, it has to be said that this one’s a bit of a bruiser…. the 46mm titanium watchcase, the more than chunky unidirectional bezel featuring those no-nonsense PVD treated screws make this a piece which thumbs its nose at all those skinny classics and kicks sand in the face of those flimsy ultra-thins….. Inside is the Calibre ED 251, water resistant to 200m, the caseback is satin-brushed and engraved with the words “never forget who you are”.

The Eberhard & Co Chrono 4 Géant Limited Edition comes presented on a sculpted rubber strap as shown or on a titanium bracelet.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Cuervo y Sobrinos present the Historiador Retrograde which will be formally unveiled at BaselWorld 2011.

There are some in the industry who are a little scornful about the Cuban connection with the Cuervo y Sobrinos name of today.  The brand name and assets were purchased back in 1997 by Luca Musumeci, and when production began in 2001 it did so in Switzerland not Havana.  Perhaps if Cuba had not experienced such a political shake-up, the Cuervo family store would still be welcoming clients from around the world but alas nothing pours cold water on the luxury goods industry quite like a revolution.  The Cuervo y Sobrinos business like so many others in downtown Havana in the 1950′s and 60′s fell into decline quickly followed by disappearance.  Since its re-birth the portfolio of timepieces released under the original name have taken design inspiration from their historical pieces.  This one is no exception.

The stainless steel case is a modest 40mm and features those much admired big distinctive polished lugs.  On the dial are three retrograde displays: date at 3 o’clock, power reserve at 6 and day of the week at 9.  These are set on a quite beautiful “Clous de Paris” guilloché centre section.  Blue hands contrast with the silver.  Inside is the automatic CYS 240 movement with 42 hours power reserve.

Regardless of their origins, Cuervo y Sobrinos watches are uniquely styled and meticulously crafted and we at the WatchPress think that they haven’t produced a dud yet.  The Historiador Retrograde comes presented on a black Louisiana crocodile strap.

Popularity: 10% [?]

A cult classic celebrates its 80th anniversary this year and in celebration Jaeger-LeCoultre present the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin “Tribute to 1931″ watch.  A number of birthday modifications could have been implimented, after all this is an enduring part of the brand’s portfolio and one which has appeared in various highly decorative and sometimes over-the-top editions.  Reassuringly Jaeger-LeCoultre have chosen to simply present the piece in the “Grande” version of its case and slim it down to a thickness of 7.2mm.  The thick side of ultra thin perhaps? – not when you consider that this also includes that rather ingenious carriage which makes the Reverso so special.  Two versions of the “Tribute to 1931″ will be available, a stainless steel case with black dial and a limited edition 18 carat pink gold case with white dial.

The Grande case measures 46mm x 27.5mm, but with a slight curve in its design along with the thin profile it is a piece which should wear comfortably.  Apart from the case size it is a tribute piece which stays true to the original.  The dial is unadorned save for the dagger-shaped hands and baton markers and numerals which replicate those of the original.  Even the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand name has been relinquished from the dial  – only the name “Reverso” appears, the company did not actually exist when the first one was created, although Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David LeCoultre must surely have realised their partnership would be a successful one.

The pieces are powered by the manual-wind Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822 with 45 hour power reserve and come presented on a black alligator leather strap.

Popularity: 15% [?]

Cartier present a new slender edition of their iconic dress watch the Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat.  At 46mm it’s almost out-size, but it is so slim that the signature blue cabochon crown bulges over the case sides accentuating its presence to stunning effect.

Three versions are available, 18 carat pink gold and white gold with silver guilloché dial and a platinum edition with an exquisite deep blue dial.  All are limited editions.

The Cartier Ballon Bleu is of course a bit of a classic – those substantial Roman numerals, the minute track which curves to accommodate that more than distinctive winding crown, it’s a watch that you would instantly recognise across a crowded room.  Cartier will always find customers for the Ballon Bleu, it will always sell.  That this one is flatter means it will rest easily on the wrist, that it is broader means that just a little bit more will peek out from beneath your tailored cuff, it’s a win/win on all accounts.

Popularity: 22% [?]

Last October we announced to you that Armin Strom and the Virgin Racing F1 team would soon be in cahoots in the paddock.  Well, the amorous banter has ceased and here’s a peek at their first off-spring, the Armin Racing Chronograph. Virgin Racing F1 are now Marussia Virgin Racing F1 and this is an Armin Strom, Armin but these are mere trivialities, here’s the watch – a big, bold sporty timer.

The case is titanium with matt black PVD coating, 44.4mm with sapphire front and back.  The Marussia Virgin F1 colours – red, black and white feature strongly but the branding is fairly subtle all the same.  It is hard to make out from the press images, but there is also a date window at 9 o’clock.  Inside is a mechanical movement with chronograph function and power reserve of 46 hours.

The Armin Strom Racing Chronograph comes presented on a black leather or black and red rubber strap with PVD coated buckle.

Popularity: 6% [?]

How do you make a dial which is bustling with activity appear utterly serene?  How do you create a dial which is alive with information seem totally harmonious?  Maurice Lacroix are accomplished in the art of dial design and every piece in their Masterpiece Collection confirms their expertise.  The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Double Rétrograde Limited Edition is no exception.

The piece features a retrograde 24-hour indication at the top of the dial, power reserve indication on the right, retrograde date function at the bottom and over on the right, an inset small seconds dial.  Hours and minutes are in the centre.

The Double Rétrograde dial with its arcs, curves and gliding wisp-like tapering hands will already be familiar to fans of the brand, but for the first time these functions are powered by an automatic movement, the ML 191 Calibre with 52 hours power reserve.  The blue dial is satin finished, those slender hands are crafted from 18 carat gold, a resplendent yet reserved mix – blue and gold never looked so good.   The case is 48mm, 18 carat satin/polished pink gold with the fine decoration reserved for the movement.

Presented on a black crocodile leather strap, the piece will be a limited edition of 50.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Oris present a new addition to their collection, the Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator.

If you’re a sporty type then you will love what Oris have to offer.  Whether your sport is in the air, on the road or beneath the sea, the brand from Hölstein have it covered.  Oris watches are pleasing on the eye and have the right mix of high quality/keen prices.  This piece falls into their Aviation category and on the dial has all the features you would expect to find on a solid, chunky, usable pilot’s watch.

The Big Crown X1 features hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph and slide rule – once a vital part of a pilot’s kit, used to calculate the fuel consumption during flight time and on this piece adjustable using the rotating bezel.  All of this is clearly and cleanly laid out on the monochrome dial with superluminova enhancing the readability.  The case measures 46mm and is stainless steel with a coating of grey PVD.  Inside is the ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic movement with 42 hours power reserve.

Oris produced their first pilot’s watch in the 1940′s and have continued to associate themselves with some of Europe’s finest aeronauts, including the Swiss Hunter Team and aerobatic pilot Don Vito Wypraechtiger, an incredible talent (with surely the best name a pilot could ever hope to possess…) who has helped the brand with some live testing in the cockpit.

The Oris Big Crown X1 Calculator takes inspiration from the first plane to break the sound barrier, the Bell X-1 and the chronograph pushers are engraved with X and 1 as a tribute to its namesake.

Popularity: 14% [?]

François-Paul Journe presents a new addition to his superb portfolio of timepieces, the F.P. Journe Octa UTC.

F.P. Journe is feisty, out-spoken, innovative, ambitious, in fact just how we at the WatchPress like our Master Watchmakers.  He is a respector of the techniques of the “Old Masters” which he blends with his own pioneering skills to produce some of the most desirable pieces available.  Famously he hates his innovations to be copied by other brands, rumour has it that he’d hate it even more not to be copied by other brands.

The F.P. Journe Octa UTC uniquely indicates the world’s different time zones linked with their geographical locations, including Summer and Winter time differences.  Journe’s dials are anything but plain but the colourful disc showing our world animates this one beautifully.

The main hour and minute subdial is located at 3 o’clock – blue hands indicate the current time zone, the rose gold hand provides indication for the second time zone.  Small seconds are displayed on a guilloché silvered dial at 4.30 with that vibrant earth dial at 7.30 and the power reserve is at the 9 0′clock position.  A large date window with instant jump indication is at 12 o’clock.

This is of course a complex piece, but an ingenious designer will always allow for an inept user.

Operation is as follows:

“The time of the main geographical place is set by pushing the small secured pusher at 4h00.  After having pulled the crown in position 2, the wearer positions the second geographical region on 0 for winter hour.  The gold hand automatically and simultaneously positions itself at the corresponding time of this region.,  The +1/-1 graduations purpose is to position the specific region for summer hour linked to the geographical location of the user, depending if it is positioned east or west of the chosen zone”

The F.P. Journe Octa UTC is available in two sizes, 38mm and 40mm with either platinum or 18 carat rose gold case.  The piece uses the FPJ Calibre 1300-3 impeccably finished with 18 carat rose gold plates and bridges and a 22 carat gold winding rotor.

Popularity: 7% [?]

One for the ladies – Armand Nicolet present a new exquisite addition to their portfolio, the Armand Nicolet LL9 Limited Edition.

Armand Nicolet, the Tramelan-based manufacture create some of the finest artisan timepieces available.  Hand-crafted guilloché faces and fine attention to detail are signature features of this very special brand.  Way back when the WatchPress was in its infancy and I didn’t know a ligne from a lug, Johnny wrote a bio on the brand and its history.  I was fascinated and quickly became hooked.

The LL9 is the brand’s first Limited Edition piece exclusively for girls.  The silvered dial is a combination of mother-of-pearl, guilloché, applied numerals and diamonds.  There are more diamonds on the bezel – 54 Top Wesseltons.  It has a pretty face, of that there is no doubt but the beauty of this piece is certainly not just skin deep.  The open work on the dial allows the wearer (and envious on-looker) a glimpse of the automatic AN704 Calibre, a reworking of one of the brand’s vintage movements from the 1950′s.

The Armand Nicolet LL9 has a stainless steel case and is water resistant to 50m.  Rarety of the movement dictates that the piece will be a limited edition of just 500.  Other versions available are grey or black dial with matching alligator strap and a combination of steel case with 18 carat pink gold bezel and crown.  However I predict that the white-on-white version shown here will most definitely be the gem of the collection.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Kari Voutilainen adds another stunning creation to his exclusive portfolio, the Voutilainen Twenty-8, powered by a new in-house movement the Calibre 28.  The piece is fairly classical in style.  The 39mm case with its “tear drop” lugs is polished, pleasing on the eye, maybe a little bit plain.  But do not be fooled, this is no ordinary watch – this is a bespoke piece.  Yes the case is standard, but on the dial whatever you want you get.  The Voutilainen workshop has its own engine turner who will happily produce which ever combination of patterns you decide to have.  Your piece will be unique.

Work on the Calibre 28 began in 2008, hence its name but as with most innovations, especially those of a horological nature, I bet that the mechanics of making this one work has been on his mind for much longer.  The movement uses two escapement wheels which provide a “direct impulse system” to the balance resulting in improved accuracy and dispels with the need for lubrication.  This is an in-house calibre at its most self-sufficient – only the mainspring, hairspring and jewels are out-sourced.  The quality is exceptional, the hand finishing is perfect.  The plates and bridges are constructed from German Silver, the wheels in 18 carat rose gold.

Available in red gold, white gold or platinium case options, the Voutilainen Twenty-8 has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Popularity: 5% [?]

The pilot’s watch, once an essential piece of kit must above all be functional.  A clear dial, sturdy case, guaranteed accuracy – no frills just the basics.  The Bremont Watch Company was founded in 2002 by Nick and Giles English, two brothers with a heritage of historic aircraft and a love for all things mechanical which would put even James May in the shade.  Their watches are “conceived by pilots for pilots”.  Their aphorism is “tested beyond endurance”.  Their “Bremont People” include The Fighter Collection based at Duxford in the UK (take my advice, go early stay all day, camp in the carpark and go back the next day too).  In fact, if Bremont had been around during World War II then perhaps Longines wouldn’t have got that RAF contract after all……..

The Bremont P-51 uses original metal from a rather famous 1944 Mustang WWII aircraft the P-51K-10 in the construction of its dial and movement.  The dial reproduces features from the aircraft’s cockpit dials so as you’d expect it is clear-cut and highly legible.

The 43mm hardened steel case uses the brand’s registered Trip-Tick construction comprising three parts, the bezel containing the sapphire crystal, the central body and the sapphire crystal caseback.  Integrated into the case is Bremont’s new “Roto-Click” rotating inner bezel which uses four ball-bearings and is operated using the crown at 8 o’clock.  On the dial, the 30 minute counter at 12 o’clock is constructed using aluminium from the original aircraft.  Functions are hours, minutes and seconds with a  24 hour UTC hand and date window at 4 o’clock. The SuperLuminova is applied skillfully and patiently using many light applications building up to the required perfection.

Inside the movement is the Calibre BE-54AE with 42 hour power reserve and like all Bremont movements is C.O.S.C. certified.  The rotor is hand crafted from the original aircraft’s aluminium skin and is decorated with it’s motto “Fragile but Agile”.

The Bremont P-51 will be officially unveiled at BaselWorld 2011 and will be a limited edition of 251 pieces.

Popularity: 10% [?]