Halloween?  It’s the perfect excuse for us to indulge in some blatant product placement and bring you images of  Daniel Strom’s Memento Mori Carpe Diem.  The piece was released last year and forms part of the Strom Agonium collection -  it’s arty, spooky, curious and strangely appealing…….

At the time of its release I recall some disagreeable reviews for this piece, which is what you expect with such a strongly styled watch, if it’s eerie stuff we’re talking, I prefer the more subtle wickedly seductive Sarpaneva Korona Moonshine watch, but on the global scale of horology there has to be something for everyone, and this one will please more than a few.  As for the name, well Guinness have been telling us to “seize the day” for a year or two but the “Memento Mori” simply means remember your mortality or put simply ….. you will die.

Limited edtions of the watch are available in silver, gold, palladium or platinium.  Inside is the Automatic 2824 Calibre.  Each is presented on an alligator strap and the skull theme continues with the addition of a miniature skull on the buckle.

In addition to the limited edtion releases, the Daniel Strom Memento Mori Carpe Diem is available for personalisation, what you say goes.

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Popularity: 4% [?]

Blancpain release a new piece the Blancpain X Fathoms Dive watch described by the brand as “the most high performance diving watch ever produced”

Brilliant -  there has been so little “hyped” up press launches since the flurry of activity that is Baselworld that we presumed they had become a thing of the past.  But Blancpain have been administering manageable little doses of excitement-inducing press releases for over a week now – seek peeks, teaser videos – it’s just like old times!!  Not only that, the brand also choose to mix the exteme theme of the watch with an extreme location, the wonderfully over-the-top Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Mall in Dubai Zoo, that’s the biggest mall in the world and the biggest aquarium in the world with nibbles and press chit chat to follow over dinner with the world’s biggest fountain show at the foot of the world’s biggest tower in the world, Burj Khalifa.  Hoopla !!

So, is the watch worthy of its launch? You bet it is -  and with only a hint of Fifty Fathoms around the bezel, the “X” is an all new piece.  It is huge  – 55.65mm across, with a case constructed from titanium with satin brushed finishing, but never mind its size, the dial is what you will notice first – it is bursting with activity and indications including a mechanical depth gauge capable of measuring current and maximum depths up to 90 metres.

A combination of hands in various colours are required to make it all work: a small red-tipped hand on the inner dial displays maximum depth; the yellow-tipped hand displays current depth; a blue-tipped hand marks the first 0 to 15 metres of  dive distance using a scale on the outer dial and at 10 o’clock is a clever retrograde 5 minute counter display used to time decompression stops.  A wealth of information, all usable and still readable, a serious diver will have no problem taking a reading from this piece at a glance.

A new movement, the Blancpain Calibre 9918B was created to power the X Fathoms, a three-barrel mechanism which gives 5 days of power reserve and water resistance of 300m.

The impressive Blancpain X Fathoms comes presented on a high-tech rubber strap and with only sketchy details and specifications available thus far, expect this one to continue to grab headlines for a day or two.

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Popularity: 4% [?]

It is with sadess that we have to report that Dr. George Daniels has died at the age of 85.  Widely regarded as one of the greatest watchmakers – ever, he leaves behind a lifetime of achievements, most notably the invention of the Co-Axial Escapement which was purchased by Omega.

To innovate and improve on the lever escapement which had largely remained unchanged for 200 years required a skillful and resourceful mind, for an Englishman to then take his invention to doubtful Swiss watch manufacturers for approval and potential sponsorship proved to be a formidable undertaking, and one which required Dr. Daniels to be steadfast and more than a little stubborn.

A Breguet enthusiast, George Daniels endorsed the handworking techniques of past Masters.  He inspired many others including Roger Smith, who he encountered when the young under-graduate was in his second year at Manchester’s School of Horology.  The pair recently collaborated on an exquisite series of limited edition Co-Axial Anniversary watches.

“Watchmaking” by George Daniels is, without doubt the definitive horology reference book, and it is a fitting testimony to this great man that his shared techniques and insights will continue to inspire and educate the watchmakers of the future for generations to come.

More information at George Daniel’s Official Website

Popularity: 2% [?]

Two years ago Corum celebrated the 50th anniversary of its Admiral’s Cup collection by releasing a complex edition featuring both a Tourbillon and a Minute Repeater – ultra-complex and ultra limited edition.  Just ten pieces were made.   Now it’s back – in an icily cool titanium case – if you missed it first time around, all good things come to those who wait – if you bought the first edition in red gold, you’ll want to kick yourself, this one looks even better.

The movement developed to power this piece, the C0 010 took two years to develop and has become a very fine feather in the Corum Cap of horological achievements.  A Minute Repeater function is a delicate and complicated piece of micro mechanics which, during the development of this calibre, Corum believe they have improved in almost every way possible.  Their Master Watchmakers have taken the minute rack, turned it around and made it bigger to improve the strength and accuracy of each note, fine tuning has lead to more harmonious tones, both the Tourbillon and the silicon escapement ensure greater precision – minutiae that would not concern all but the most discerning enthusiast, yet they are details which Corum have, in their mission of raising their standards sought to amend.

A showcase piece then, and one with the immaculate hand decoration that you would expect from such a fine timepiece, circular graining, circular satin-brushing, Côtes de Genève, the look-see through the sapphire caseback displays standards worthy of intense inspection.

The dial of this piece is crafted using smoky sapphire, a unique feature which suits that titanium frame even more than the first edition.  The chevrons and hands are rhodium-coated, the pennants are monochrome – shadowy in comparison to the colourful ones of times gone by.  The Tourbillon appears in an opening at 5 o’clock.

Even though it is perhaps masquerading as a Haute Horlogerie watch, this is an Admiral’s Cup so technically speaking is a sports watch.  A Minute Repeater complication is not something you would normally associate with a sporty timer – the little slide mechanism on the case side used to operate the system would be more than a little obtrusive.  At best you could injure yourself or your opponent while playing your favourite rough and tumble sport, at worst you could damage this watch.  Corum’s skilfull craftsmen have developed a clever system which activates the chimes using the bezel so with a quick  27-degree turn in the clockwise direction you can chime away the time, with no slide on the side.  They have quite simply thought of everything….

The superb Corum Admiral’s Cup 45 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Titanium will be a limited edition of just 15 pieces each presented on a black crocodile leather strap.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

The Graham Silverstone Stowe GMT Blue and Yellow edition is the perfect antidote to dreary Autumnal skies.  This is the brightest edition of the Stowe GMT so far and although some might think that its animated colours are just a touch unseasonable, Graham don’t give a hoot – and neither will their “wear it loud and wear it proud” diehard fans.

This is a big, busy and functional watch.  On the dial are a 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock, blue-rimmed and snailed; seconds at 9; a big double date window at 6; a tachymeter scale and a GMT function with 24 hour indication on that brilliant blue bezel.  Chunky yellow numerals and lume-coated hands enliven the black dial.  The GMT hand is black, and with a coating of lume only on its arrow-head will appear to float around the edge of the dial after dark.  Sportier still, the chronograph has a fly-back function which makes immediate reuse of the chronograph hand with one push – perfect for quick succession timing …….  and you’ll have no problem locating those huge pushers which peep out so boldly from your cuff that they announce to the world that you are have a Graham on your wrist.

F1 fans will already know the name “Silverstone”, home of the British Grand Prix and one of the most historical circuits still in use by the FIA.  Graham choose to honour not only the super-quick race track with a watch collection, but to also name the models in the collection after corners on the circuit.  This one takes the name of the renowned Stowe corner into which the cars arrive flat out from Hangar Straight and which many enthusiasts agree is a marvellous spot from which to watch a race unfold.

The 48mm Graham Silverstone Stowe GMT Blue and Yellow is powered by the G1721 bi-compax chronograph movement and will be a limited edition of 250 pieces.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

Here’s the latest JLC/Aston Martin timepiece, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox World Chronograph LMP1, the ninth watch released to celebrate the partnership.  As you can imagine it’s a sporty collection of watches with lots of car-inspired stuff, air vent style chrono pushers etc. and high-tech construction materials.  The LMP1 in the title is for “Le Mans Prototype 1″ which means that this piece, like the Aston Martin Racing LMP1 cars steps out in the very tasty Gulf colours of orange and blue.

The piece combines a worldtimer, with 24 hour locations displayed on the disc, readable and useful, and a chronograph function, the perfect trackside accompaniment for arduous endurance races.

On the textured dial are stand-out white lume-coated hour and minute hands, a 30 minute counter is at 6 o’clock, a 12 hour counter is at 12 with a chronograph hand in the centre.  All of the timing function hands appear in vibrant orange.  The 44mm case is made from ceramic and titanium with grippy pushers on the side.  On the world timezone disc are 24 city locations from which the time can be instantly read, in place of London the Aston Martin winged logo is displayed.  Inside is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic 752 Calibre with a more than generous 65 hours of power reserve thanks to its twin barrel construction.

As  far as sporting events go, a Swiss watch manufacturer can have no better billboard on which to advertise its name than endurance racing.  We have avidly followed the fortunes of the Rebellion Racing Team this year but I have to admit it’s hard not to notice an Aston Martin going full throttle around the track with the iconic  “007″ number proudly displayed on its side.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox World Chronograph LMP1 will be a limited editon of 250 pieces each presented on a super-cool perforated black leather strap.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

It’s been a while since they have produced a new divers watch but the Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Manjuari has an abundance of unusual design details, from its jagged-edged bezel to its subtly rippled lugs – it has the special mix of Swiss precision and Latin presence that got us hooked on this brand in the first place…….

Cuervo y Sobrinos are perhaps better known for creating retrospective pieces – dress watches with big curvy lugs and unexpected dial designs – than for divers watches.  The brand was revived by businessman and enthusiast, Luca Musumeci and watch industry savvy Mario Villa after it had lain dormant for over forty years.  When production resumed in Switzerland in 2001, it was with the authentic accuracy of the drawings, designs and original watch cases and components discovered by Luca Musumeci in the Cuervo’s derelict shop on Havana’s Avenida Quinta, from which the family had hastily fled when the revolution took hold in Cuba – a momentous discovery, which provided the blueprint for the rebirth of Cuervo y Sobrinos and is perhaps what makes the watches produced by the brand today so special.

The Robusto Manjuari measures a very manageable 43mm across, its modular case is constructed from sections of steel, titanium and rubber.  On the titanium bezel the unidirectional rotating ring has a sapphire crystal inlay and is operated via the crown.

On the black dial, an ensemble of fine features – “sharpened” hour markers and chunky indices, a GMT subdial at 6 o’clock, its bright blue rim replicated in the background colour of the big date aperture, the Cuervo coat of arms logo, red script and the unique sword-shaped hands.  This is a watch which is built to withstand the depths and be highly legible yet unlike many divers watches available it won’t look like you have a survival device strapped to your wrist – its size and distinctive styling make it a wear-anywhere piece, and it’s dapper enough to get noticed too.

Inside the Robusto Manjuari is the automatic CyS 2511 Calibre, based on an ETA movement to which a GMT function and big date module have been added.  Power reserve is 42 hours.  The case back features an engraving of the big scary Cuban fish, the Manjuari, from which the piece takes its name.  In honour of the year Don Armando Rio Cuervo first founded his watchmaking business in downtown Havana, the piece is water resistant to 1882 feet or 600m.

The Cuervo y Sobrinos Robusto Manjuari comes presented on a black rubber strap with constrasting red stitching.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

The Ari watch by Eva Leube follows the contours of the wrist forming a striking and substantial arc shape, but this is no run-of-the-mill cuff watch, inside is a handmade  movement which has been designed to fill the entire case in a stunning front-on view.  Eva Leube has quite literally curved the calibre.

This has been a productive year for Eva Leube  – she has been accepted as a candidate for the AHCI, has presented her first timepiece the “Ari” and her creation, four years in the making has been chosen as a finalist for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the Design watch category …. that’s “design” not “designer” watch, there is a huge difference…

So.  How do you curve a calibre?  Re-write the rules and re-design almost everything – not just the components, but the tools required to make the components.  To create curved parts you need solid blocks of metal, not flat sheets. To cut and shape the curved parts you need to create tools capable of cutting and shaping curved parts. To finish curved parts once they have been cut, you need unique tools capable of finishing the curved parts …..  To complicate the process even further Ms. Leube lives and works in Sydney, just about as faraway as you can get from the industry’s comfort zone of suppliers and technical know-how.

Now it is not uncommon for an independent watchmaker to choose a location other than La Chaux-de-Fonds in which to create their timepieces.  George Daniels has made some of the watches which define the industry in his workshop on the Isle of Man, a location often buffeted by all that the Irish Sea can throw at it, storms which mean that sometimes the delivery man doesn’t deliver.  The McGonigles do some of their watchmaking down the road from us in Ireland, a country where as we know only too well the Monday post often doesn’t exist, a country where a weekend can sometimes stretch to four days, leaving it rather difficult to meet deadlines.  Independent watchmakers think differently, are different.  The mainstream environment can provide unnecessary distractions, and independent watchmakers are not only an artistic collection of individuals, they are extremely resourceful too.

Inside the Ari watch is Eva’s handmade calibre appearing in a unique linear form.  The large balance is at the top, followed by a subdial for seconds then in the centre is the hour and minutes dial with an Eva Leube engraved ratchet wheel completing the perfectly formal line-up.  The hands are heat-blued steel – traditional and superb.  The 53.44 x 21.6mm case is enclosed in a curved sapphire which reaches right over the case sides and is a feature in itself.  The crown is tucked away tidily beneath the 6 o’clock allowing for a pure uncluttered case.

Two case versions are available, either Platinum 950 or 18 carat gold.  On the caseback is a coat of arms designed by the watchmaker featuring the reversed escape wheel of the Ari watch.  Hand-finishing will be immaculate, each watch will be a work of art, an heirloom piece.  Due to the handcrafting involved the piece can be personalised for the individual.

Find out more at Eva Leube.com and if you like this piece as much as we do you the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has a public prize, you can click-and-vote for the Ari watch here.

Previous articles about Independent Watchmakers

McGonigle Tuscar – Irish Watchmaking – As Rare As Hen’s Teeth

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Marc Jenni JJJ Timepiece. Modern. History.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei aka “Urwerk” have just released images of a new and very limited, limited edtion watch – the Urwerk UR-110 ZrN Torpedo aka “Champagne Supernova”.  The ZrN in the name, as you would expect from Urwerk suggests something unusual, our feeling is that if Kryptonite could be mined and used in watchmaking then Mr. Baumgartner and Mr. Frei would be unafraid to use it.  In this case the material in question is Zirconium Nitrade which is used to coat the bezel.  This is an extreme, space-age material which, although ultimately tough and scratch-resistant adds a subtle almost ethereal frosting to Urwerk’s big techy beast.

Of course we have looked at the Ur-110 before, described it before – even posted moving images of it before …sometimes words are just not enough …. and at just 12 pieces the ZrN edition is perhaps too unattainable to deserve attention, but with a keen eye for the unusual we find that images of its extraordinary dial indications are simply irresistable.

A central carousel is at the heart of the UR-110′s mechanics.  On the dial are three hour satellites in parallel formation, each indicating or preparing to indicate the time.  This is such an active dial that a mere glance at the piece could result in serious loss of productivity as the wearer becomes immersed in its dynamics.

The Urwerk UR-110 ZrN Torpedo will be a limited edition of just 12 pieces, available for purchase at four exclusive retailers across the globe.

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Bulgari have added a new collection to their portfolio of highly desirable ladies watches with the Bulgari Mediterranean Eden models.  Bulgari are not shy when it comes to displaying their logo on their creations, it is not uncommon for their watches to feature the Bulgari name boldly enscribed onto a chunky bezel – this is not the case with the Mediterranean Eden watches which feature a pivoting case cover which all but conceals both the dial and that covetable logo.

Few are unfamiliar with the Bulgari brand.  With a flair for design, the company have diversified and built up an enviable luxury product range which along with an astute marketing strategy have brought continued success.  Watches are a niche which Bulgari take very seriously, so seriously that they have acquired not only the Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta marques but also Cadrans Design -a top notch dial manufacture and Prestige D’or – a company specialising in metal watchstrap construction – that’s a lot of know-how and equipment, all gained since 2000.  The Mediterranean Eden collection of watches is an exquisite showcase for both the Bulgari watch designers and their gem-setting experts.

Three editions are available, rose gold case set with one pearl, a white gold case set with diamonds and 6 pearls or  a multi-coloured version, a spectrum of diamonds, amethyst, tourmaline, citrine, peridot and topaz with rose gold case.  Each has a cabochon-cut stone on its crown – pearl or tourmaline.  The open-worked cover pivots to display hours and minutes on a mother-of-pearl dial.  Inside is a quartz movement personalised for Bulgari, but don’t let that put you off, what you are paying for is the flawless gem-setting and the Italian style/Swiss construction mix that Bulgari watches are respected for in the industry.

The Bulgari Mediterranean Eden collection of watches come presented on a satin strap and have water resistance of 30m …. as if you would dare to let a drop of water near one of these beauties.

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Popularity: 3% [?]

This is the Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days 47mm, the brand’s most recent addition to its historical collection.  It’s big, it’s shiny, it has the cuff-shredding crown guard and at 47mm across has an abundance of wrist presence.  So far this year the brand have dabbled with cases made from “composites”, ceramic and even bronze, but the plain black dial/ polished steel case is such an emblematic combination and is so perfect that if you are considering joining the Panerai Club then you could do worse than make this piece your members card.

Once again Panerai take inspiration from the styling of classic models, for this piece they have rounded the case edges, used the vintage “Luminor Marina” branding and have added 3mm Plexiglass in place of sapphire crystal.  The dial uses the “sandwich” construction – is as it sounds – two dial layers between which a generous spreading of luminous substance has been added – the top layer has the numerals and markers cut out like a stencil so when it is assembled high readability is ensured.  This is a fairly plain dial, large markers, large numerals – no swirly number “9″  in its place is a small seconds dial with a chubby little seconds hand.

Vintage styling on the outside then, but inside all is thoroughly modern.  The Panerai P.3001 handwound calibre delivers its 3 days of power reserve thanks to two barrels and an extra large balance wheel.  Fans of  finely finished bridges may be astounded at the plainness of the P.3001 movement and wonder why Panerai choose to exhibit it through a sapphire crystal.  This is a very contemporary calibre both technically and aesthetically – chunky bridges, clean lines, minimal decoration.  On the larger of the bridges is a clever little power reserve indication which displays 0 through to 3.

The Panerai Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days 47mm (PAM 422) will be a limited edition of  2000 pieces and comes presented on an untreated leather strap with an additional interchangeable strap and tools required to change it also supplied.

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Popularity: 6% [?]

Hublot have just released details of their latest limited edition F1 piece, the Hublot F1 King Power Suzuka.  Last March Hublot announced that they were to become the “Official Watchmaker of F1″ – the ultimate product placement for any watch brand – yet Hublot have been remarkably restrained with their F1 watch releases.  We have not been inundated with F1 race-inspired editions, quite the opposite in fact – astute marketing which has left fans of both F1 and Hublot just wanting more – until now.

……….. The Suzuka circuit has been the backdrop for many end of season, edge of the sofa moments for F1 fans.  The circuit is a twisting figure of eight – just the sort of layout you would love to replicate with your scalextric track.  It’s the one with the big ferris wheel and an even bigger history to match – perhaps best known for the Prost/Senna duels of 1989 and 1990.  In 1989 both were racing for the championship, both driving for McLaren and when Prost “turned-in” on Senna during an all-or-nothing overtaking move, Prost was off – Senna got back on track, drove the race of his life but was later excluded for cutting a chicane.  Prost went on to win the championship.  Fast forward to 1990, same circuit, same rivalry with the added bitterness of the events of the previous year’s outcome.  Senna on pole but was denied his request to start the race on the “clean side” of the track and stated that if he was challenged going into the first corner by Prost he was not going to back-off.  He was challenged.  Both cars ended up in the sand-trap and Senna was champion. This was passionate racing, not the clinical corporate stuff we have become conditioned to today, it was damn-the-sponsors we want to win.  Missed it?  re-live it on YouTube……….

So a worthy circuit to honour with a new Hublot F1 piece then, and one which provides a new colourway for the latest King Power which looks more than tasty in Japan’s red and white.  As always it is techy both in looks and the construction materials used to create it  – that brake disc inspired ceramic bezel with the chunky Hublot screws, the superb dial layout and that outstanding King Power case – it’s all good.

The Hublot F1 King Power Suzuka comes presented on a Nomex/rubber combination strap and will be a limited edition of 250 pieces.

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Montblanc add to their collection a celebratory piece, the Montblanc Ricolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Edition watch.  Writing or indeed reading a watch review often involves a “free” history lesson.  No other industry commemorates important historical events quite so ardently and beautifully as the watchmaking business does.

Nicolas Rieussec was not only a talented young watchmaker, but also a man of vision.  His inquisitive mind led him to wonder how much more accurately a sporting event such as horseracing could be recorded, if only there were a device capable of registering the time of each horse as they completed an event.  In 1822 at Champ de Mars, a Parisian event, M. Rieussec tested his creation, a device  consisting of a box inside which a movement powered two dials which turned while the minute and seconds hands remained still.  At the push of a button when each horse crossed the finish line, an ink-tipped hand would leave a mark on a dial leaving it possible to time each one more or less accurately.  The French Patent Office granted the invention a patent that same year, an invention which we have since  become more than  familiar with, and one which the young man aptly named “chronograph”, because it was quite literally a time-writing device.

The revolving dials of Rieussec’s Chronograph are replicated in the Montblanc tribute piece – both the 60-seconds and the 30-minute counters are secured wiith a substantial bridge, they rotate while the counter hands remain fixed.  The hours and minutes dial is off-centred and around the edge of its skeletonised centre is a date indicator.  Fine guilloche decoration and blued screws complete the superb dial finishing.  Further fine details….. a mother-of-pearl Montblanc emblem appears in miniature on the crown and on the case side the chrono pushpiece is located in a tamper-free location, at 8 o’clock.

The MB R110 movement features an authentic column-wheel chronograph with a modern twist, its vertical coupling ensures friction free running even over long periods, and innovative design of the teeth of the going train components reduce wear and ensure that the power is transmitted efficiently.  Twin barrels power this hand-wound calibre producing 72 hours of reserve, and a traveller-friendly function allows quick-set of the hour hand and date indication in either direction without damaging the mechanism.

The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Anniversary Editon is available in 18-carat gold – 190 pieces, 18-carat white gold with black dial and white numerals – 90 pieces and platinum – 25 pieces all presented on alligator leather strap.

Popularity: 5% [?]

The watch industry: respectable, durable, established.  How to shock it – be unpredictable.  When MB&F release a new watch we all sit up and take note.  Their designs are just so original… whacky even.  Everyone expected to be reviewing a new MB&F time measuring machine this week, perhaps slightly gadety and techy in style but the MB&F Legacy Machine N° 1 is a tame and docile addition to the family, with more than a nod to traditional pocketwatch construction.

When a visionary Pablo Picasso presented Les Demoiselles d’Avignon it was received with a spectrum of strong opinions – horror, derision, admiration, a ground-breaking painting and one which brought much publicity, even so the painter was able to depart from extreme modernism many times in his career to re-discover the classically perfect form and line drawing taught to him as a child.  The same applies to watch design, perhaps there will be avant-garde MB&F pieces presented in the future, but for the Legacy Machine N° 1 Max Busser had a desire to revisit  the structure of the traditional pocketwatch with the addition of a few modern features, of course.

The “F” of MB&F stands for friends.  Max Busser assembles some of the best in the industry to assist him with his watches.  Jean-François Mojon …..  last year’s GPHG winner for Best Watchmaker and creator of the Opus X and Kari Voutilainen the Finnish Master Watchmaker, an expert in fine detailing, a man not used to signing his name on anything other than his own creations …… both worked on the LM1 Calibre.  This is a pocketwatch inspired calibre, hand wound with a large balance wheel and a slow rate of oscillation, at 18,000 bph you will notice the rest between the ticks.  Construction, design and finishing of the movement will be beyond perfect, as you would expect and with both of these gentlemen’s signatures on the back this will be an heirloom piece.

The 14mm balance wheel has been moved from the back of the movement to pride of place on the dial where it levitates above two glossy white subdials supported by two striking arches.  The subdials with their slightly domed dials display the time for two time zones and the hours and minutes on each can be set independently.  A vertical power reserve indicator, a world first is at 6 o’clock, its presence providing parity and symmetry to the dial design.  A high domed sappire crystal is required to accomodate the 3D elements of the dial and an exhibition caseback allows a view of the unique calibre.

The case of the piece measures 44mm across and has the addition of an extra crown, at 8 o’clock to allow adjustment of the left dial – the right side crown, located at 4 o’clock is used to adjust the time on the right dial and to wind the movement.  Two editions of the MB&F Legacy Machine are available constructed in either 18 carat red gold or 18 carat white gold both editions come presented on either black or brown hand-stitched alligator leather strap.

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Popularity: 3% [?]

New from Corum is the Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT, a very understated addition to the Corum portfolio and the first in the Admiral’s Cup collection to feature an automatic tourbillon.  Earlier this year Antonio Calce, the CEO of Corum announced that he would continue to develop the Admiral’s Cup which he described as the “most complete line of watches” ever produced by Corum.  Like many watch bosses Mr. Calce is completely committed to achieving his vision for the company.  So committed, in fact that he became a Corum shareholder last week, a man unafraid to “put his money where his mouth is” then.

First released in 1960 and re-born in 1980, the Admiral’s Cup collection has had a cherished upbringing.  Its development and progression has been gradual, the changes made to its design have been considered.  The 12-sided case shape has evolved but it remains.  Gone are the colourful pennants now replaced with monochrome markers.  The models in today’s portfolio have a broader appeal too – three domains “the Extreme, the Sport Chic and the Elegance” ensure there is something for everyone.  The Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT with its superb “Corum Key” adorned Tourbillon can be filed under Elegance.

This one has an 18-carat red gold 47mm case with contrasting charcoal dial.  At 3 o’clock is a pointer date indicator with a second time zone dial at 6.  The chevrons and the under-size Corum 60 at 12 o’clock are also constructed from gold and the Corum Admiral’s Cup logo is etched directly onto the sapphire crystal.  The indication at 7.30 is a day/night display and the pusher on the case side is used to adjust the second time zone.

Inside is the CO 397 self winding movement with 50 hours of power reserve.  The exhibition caseback provides a view of the unusual features of this calibre – a series of turbines turn while beneath each a wheel turns in the opposite direction -  a sporty and techy contrast to the reserved well-behaved dial.

The Corum Admiral’s Cup Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT comes presented on a black alligator leather strap.

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