News of the new for 2012 Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Steel Anthracite DLC blasted into our inbox without any warning this morning, scattering our other emails into oblivion and leaving our inbox in tatters with cyber plasterboard fluttering from the walls! Cloaked in satin-smooth Diamond Like Carbon the latest offering from Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin certainly is a high-impact watch but it is clear (to me) that the guys have infused a little modern military ‘Stealth’ technology when at the drawing board stage of this fabulous creation.

Radar image of Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Steel Anthracite DLC

Undoubtedly one of the very coolest watch companies around,  Linde Werdelin have established themselves as the absolute masters when it comes to the entire umbrella process of designing, creating and bringing a new watch to market, and true to form the SpidoSpeed Steel Anthracite DLC extends that trend. Following in the sold-out footsteps of it’s predecessor, news of which we first broke here on The Watch Press, this evolution really is a fantastic looking piece!

Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Anthracite DLC

Unsurprisingly, a little more thought went into the evolution of this concept than ‘oh, we’ll make it black’.  Non monsieurs, dames! Au contraire, attention to detail was such that virtually every visible element of the watch, including the skeletonised multi-layered dial individually underwent precisely the same DLC treatment so as to achieve the agonisingly painstaking result of absolute uniform anthracite coloration throughout the watch. Recognising that even slightly differing exposure times to the DLC process would result in tiny variations in hue of the treated components and ultimately compromise the visual 3-D impact of the finished piece, which the anthracite colour accentuates to it’s optimum, merely added to the complexity of this task.

Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Anthracite DLC

The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Steel Anthracite DLC retains all of the technical specifications of the original, which I covered in my feature here last year, but to update that article, I will take this opportunity to correctly address the fully customised bespoke automatic self-winding movement – based on the legendary Valjoux 7750, except completely rebuilt using superior components and finishing by the Concepto high-end movement manufacture – with it’s true moniker, the LW03.

Now attired in a sleek, level 1000th of a millimetre coating of carbon, the new SpidoSpeed reinforces the ‘Stealth’ design characteristics as found on last year’s original. Bold angles and vents, lightweight yet highly effective, this is one piece whch is guaranteed to evade radar detection, but when captured by the naked eye it packs one hell of a punch!

Popularity: 22% [?]

Details have just been released of the Speake-Marin Renaissance Tourbillon Minute-Repeater.  At The Watch Press.com we do not normally mention prices – it’s simply not good “watch-etiquette”.  However, when Peter Speake-Marin released his last piece, the Spirit Pioneer, a fine and handsome limited edition watch, we couldn’t help ourselves – at just a shade under £7000, it was dare we say it …. a bit of a bargain, and unsuprisingly it quickly sold out.  The Renaissance, on the other hand, will be one of the most expensive created by Speake-Marin to date – but with both a tourbillon and a minute-repeater, an impressive open dial, superb hand engraving, hand finishing and the re-assurance of exclusivity as each piece will be a “piece unique” – you’d have to say it’s more than worth it.

If you know Speake-Marin’s work then you will recognise the Piccadilly case with its proudly protruding over-size lugs, the out-size sculpted crown, the shapely, playful hands and the inclusion of the “topping tool” motif, now an expected feature.  The Renaissance is a compendium of these Speake-Marin elements and represents a synopsis of his watchmaking attributes – just when it appeared that this Master Watchmaker had reached his own self-disciplined level of perfection, with the creation of this piece, it would appear that the man has outdone himself.

This is, at 44mm a slightly smaller Piccadilly case than before and at 11mm is positively skinny for a minute-repeater wristwatch.  The skeletonised dial is a labyrinth of angles, curves and screws.  Each component regardless of its size, function or importance has been hand-finished.  The blued-steel hands provide outstanding contrast, the topping-tool motif integrated within the tourbillon carriage is subtle and clever.

On the back of the piece the four plate construction of the movement provides a striking backdrop for hand engraving – in this piece a dragon is represented, but each Renaissance will feature unique artwork. The chime mechanism is a two-hammer minute-repeater which will sound the hours, quarter hours and minutes each time the slider on the case side at 9 o’clock is activated.  A glimpse of the hammers and gong can be seen through the case back with the enscription “London-Geneva” on the main-spring bridge of the repeater.

The superb Speake-Marin Renaissance is presented on a natural alligator leather strap.

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Popularity: 4% [?]

New for 2012 is the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT.  This is the first time that the brand have added a GMT complication to one of their “proprietary” movements – and on the dial things look a bit different too…..

The textured dial pattern, characteristic of Aqua Terra models remains – there would be a backlash from fans if that were fiddled with – no, the model has undergone as few changes as possible in order for it to become a timepiece capable of indicating two timezones.  Omega’s designers have taken the 24 hour ring from the outer edge of the dial, and have relocated it further into the dial so that its numerals rest between the razor-sharp tip of each spiked hour marker.  Furthermore, the date window has been moved to the 6 o’clock position, resting within the GMT ring for added balance/confusion?

An unusual GMT dial layout then, but not completely original, Seiko have used a similar format for their Grand Seiko Automatic GMT and I distinctly remember an ultra-busy Glycine Airman which used both inner and outer dial space in order to display three timezones.

The Aqua Terra is a suberb collection, which you would have to say will always have appeal, good looks aside though this piece also has another “unique selling point” – inside is Omega’s Co-Axial Calibre 8605/8615 in which the brand have invested and now perfected – a movement which, once regulated should remain not only precise, but also maintenance-free for longer as it requires almost no lubrication.  In addition to the rather handsome steel model featured here, an 18 carat red gold case and a steel and red gold case edition are also available.

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT comes presented on a choice of either bracelet or matching leather strap.

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Popularity: 9% [?]

This is the Nomos Zürich watch, a supreme example of minimalist styling.  It has just been awarded the Good Design Award 2011 – proof that in an industry interspersed with complications and decorations, wristwatches with  pure and simple functionality are still meritorious.

Nomos are a Glashütte-based manufacture, founded in 1991 -  a youthful brand then, and one with a reassuringly fresh attitude to not only the manufacturing and design of their timepieces, but also to marketing, communication – even the care of its employees.  Roland Schwertner has organically grown his company from one with only three employees to an enviable manufactory producing a portfolio of beautifully designed, understated “timeless” pieces.  It is difficult to pinpoint exactly what it is that makes these watches special – many would describe them as nondescript.  Perhaps, in this case it would be true to say that sometimes the unremarkable can be truly remarkable.

The Nomos Zürich has a 39.7mm stainless steel case, with a simplicity which belies its complex octopartite construction.  On the white silver-plated dial are elongated markers and eyelash-slim hands.  The piece is so-named in honour of its Swiss designer, the late Hannes Wettstein.

Nomos are no strangers to accolades having previously won both the iF Product Design Award and the Red Dot Award.

More at the Nomos Official Website.

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Popularity: 4% [?]

The year may be young, but here’s a date for your diary – the upcoming Automates & Merveilles Exhibition which will run from April 28th to September 30th 2012.  This will be a co-operative event – three museums in three cities – the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire in Neuchâtel will host the Jaquet Droz and Jean-Frederic Leschot exhibit, the Musée International d’Horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds will focus on “Marvellous Movements and Amazing Mechanisms” and in Le Locle the Musée d’Horlogerie will feature Masterpieces of Luxury Miniaturization.  Whether you be a horological historian, an fan of eclectic engineering or simply a lover of all things beautiful, prepare to be amazed – this will be the event of the year.

Readers of the Watch Press.com will already know the name Jaquet Droz – we love these exceptional, flawless timepieces.  The Swatch Group, a very modern-thinking company may own the brand now, but between 1768 and 1774 Pierre Jaquet Droz had an ingenious marketing idea to help sell his timepieces.  Along with his son, Henri-Louis and also Jean-Frederic Leschot he created three astounding Automata, the Musician, the Drawer and the Writer – human-like mechanical dolls so-named because each could realistically perform their given task.  The concept was simple – almost Biver-esque in its resourcefulness, those who viewed these superb Automata would be suitably impressed, making the timepieces produced under the Jaquet Droz name highly desirable, and those who he sought to excite were no ordinary individuals, these potential clients were the Kings and Emperors of Europe, China and beyond.

Modern wristwatch calibres contain hundreds of micro components, with added desirability gained from the hours and days invested in its assembly.   The Automatons were constructed from parts numbering in the thousands, and are considered by many to be the first computers, such was their ability to be “programmed” albeit via the use of mechanical cams and switches – complexities made even more astonishing considering the conditions under which they were made – no power tools or well-lit clinically clean workshops.  What is, perhaps even more astonishing is that all three survive to this day, bought by the History and Archeology society of Neuchâtel and donated to the local museum who have cared for them ever since.

Curiously, the art of the illusionist and the art of Automata are intrinsically linked.  Movie fans may have seen Martin Scorsese’s “Hugo” – an adventure based on the life story of Georges Méliès – film maker, illusionist and automated toymaker.  “Hugo” is Hugo Cabret, son of a Master Clockmaker, who when orphaned takes responsibility for his late father’s project – restoration of a broken automaton – who writes with a pen.   It is a movie with a story so interwoven with horology that it is simply unmissable for anyone in the industry – see if you can spot a cameo appearance by an exquisite “Mystery Clock”.

The trio of Automates & Merveilles exhibitions will run simultaneously in French, English and German, with pieces from both private and public collections on loan for the first time.

More information at the Jaquet Droz website.

Popularity: 3% [?]

This is the Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Tachydate.

Of course, Montblanc are one of the best known luxury brand names worldwide – it’s  difficult to believe that they have only been producing watches since 1997.  Marketing know-how and brand familiarity have perhaps been responsible in part for the brand’s ascendency into the upper echelons of horology, but the purchase of the historical Minerva movement manufacture has ensured success.  Montblanc continue to pay tribute to the year Minerva was founded, 1858, with the strongly vintage-styled Villeret 1858 collection with a limited edition release of 1, 8 or 58 pieces each year.

The Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Tachydate is presented in a classically rounded case, which at 43.5mm is perhaps a little on the large side for vintage.  Mono-pusher operation of the chronograph via the crown keeps the polished case side unfussy and tidy.  On the pristine dial are counters for 30 mins at 3 o’clock and for small seconds at 9.  A Pointer Date indicator, always an eye-pleasing feature is at 6 o’clock.

The Montblanc Villeret 1858 Tachydate will be officially unveiled at SIHH 2012 and will be a limited release of 58 pieces with white gold case and 58 with rose gold case.

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Popularity: 3% [?]

Details have just been released of the Blancpain Saint-Valentin 2012.  The Le Brassus manufacture have an excellent tradition – each year they pay tribute to the most romantic day in the calendar with a special limited edition ladies watch.

The Saint-Valentin collection is exquisite and thematic of all the amorous stuff you might expect – hearts, touches of red and sprinkles of sparkles, but what’s best about this very feminine niche in Blanpain’s portfolio is that these timepieces are not syrupy, candy-coated love tokens – they are powered by mechanical calibres, some even have complications -when we wrote about last year’s edition we stated that it had “what every girl really wants ….” this year Blancpain have done it again. The 2012 piece is be-jewelled, it is pretty, it even has a pink oscillating weight, but inside that very girly watchcase is the mechanical self-winding Calibre F185 with a very nifty flyback chronograph function.

The Saint-Valentin 2012 has 2.95 carats of stones all put to good use on the bezel, the lugs, the dial, even on the caseband.  The crown is diamond-set, the pushers have rubies and those little heart-shaped subdials on the engraved mother-of-pearl dial are playful additions.  The chronograph function is displayed by the central sweep seconds hand which features a perfect little heart-shaped counterweight.  The piece will be constructed from white gold and measures 36mm, small enough to be wearable, big enough to get noticed.

The Blancpain Saint-Valentin 2012 will be a limited edition of just 14 pieces.

Like to see last year’s Saint-Valentin edition?

……. And the one before that?

Popularity: 5% [?]

This is the Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch which will be unveiled at SIHH 2012, a piece which in the true heritage of traditional watchmaking has its creation measured in the hours, days – weeks even, taken by the craftsmen chosen to produce it.

This is a timepiece with a compendium of fine features, the instantly recognisable Cartier Roman Numerals have been painstakenly cutaway, revealing themselves taller and prouder than ever, blued steel hands (-what else?) are in complete entente with the crowning blue cabochon, the “C” bridge tourbillon – all combine to make this a striking and substantial piece.

The manual winding Calibre 9436MC features not only a tourbillon, but also a mono pusher chronograph and a perpetual calendar.  The latter uses its marvellous mechanical memory to count the days, weeks and months while taking into account variations of the months and also leap years – only a quirk in the Gregorian calendar which rules that 2100 will be a Secular year causes it confusion, so adjustment will be required on March 1st of that year.

This is a tactile and considerable piece handcrafted from 18 carat gold and measuring 59mm across.  As you”d imagine it is fairly weighty too but Cartier have thought of that and each piece comes with an equally grandiose obsidian and rock crystal stand.

The Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch will be a limited release of 10 pieces with a 5 piece diamond set edition to follow in 2012.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

Just released are details of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar.

Not everyone likes the fussiness of a decorated watch dial.  For some there’s nothing quite like the plain high-legibility of a classic Pilot’s watch.  IWC are more than accomplished in the creation of clean-cut aviation pieces – I know of no man who would not gain an extra swagger if he had one of their Pilot’s Chronos strapped to his wrist.

This one has the added bravado of IWC’s in-house Calibre 89365 with a flyback function and a mighty 168 hours of power reserve.  Maybe you’re more familiar with a pilot’s watch with a big black face and white numerals?  This one has a sharp combination of a matt anthracite dial with covert colours for the hands and chapter ring.  The case measures 48mm across (… great, the more the better when a watch looks this good …) and is made from anti-scratch grey ceramic.  A military-styled textile strap completes the utilitarian styling.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar will form part of the brands new releases to be presented a SIHH 2012.

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Popularity: 12% [?]