30 years have passed since the founding of Chronoswiss.  25 years have passed since the first Chronoswiss Régulateur was unveiled and 16 months have passed since   Chronoswiss was sold, leaving its creator in the role of “Consultant”.  For 2013 a new celebratory piece, the Régulateur 30 was presented to the industry, but first allow me to acquaint you with Gerd-R Lang,  founding father of Chronoswiss and vanguard of the industry.

Gerd-R Lang founded his watchmaking workshop in 1981, concentrating firstly on his preferred genre at that time – the development of chronograph movements.  This was a familiar starting point for this particular watchmaker’s new independent enterprise because on serving his apprenticeship he had found employment with the Heuer watch company where he served from 1964 working on the famous Heuer sports chronographs and stopwatches.  This position had a few perks too, as in 1970 he found himself involved on behalf of Heuer with Steve McQueen in the classic ‘Le Mans’ movie – the iconic actor having a long-standing affair with the company’s Monaco chronograph watch, Gerd also shared McQueen’s passion for motor racing  and his passion for all things mechanical would was to become his company slogan: “Faszination der Mechanik”.

Following the death of its Patron, the Heuer brand had struggled for some years, and it was this period of instability (ultimately culminating in the takeover by Technologies d’Avant-Garde later in 1984) which triggered G-R Langs’ departure, taking with him in lieu of severance a stock of Heuer chronograph movements.

To embark on such a project at a time when the industry was engulfed by quartz technology required commitment and ingenuity.  Mr. Lang had both, and within a few years his unique hand assembled timepieces had caught the eye of enthusiasts and collectors alike.

His portfolio featured a broad selection of styles and functions ranging from Chronographs and Rattrapante, the Chronoscope, the Delphis (featuring retrograde minutes and digital hour display), through to remarkable pieces like the Digiteur (above), which combines the analogue movement with a non-analogue display, the stunning Régulateur Tourbillon and Répétition á quarts timepieces, and the fabulous Chronoswiss Sauterelle (Grasshopper!) models, complete with that famous quartz movement signature – jumping seconds – even though the movement is wholly mechanical.

Having moved into a new purpose-built facility in Karlsfeld, Munich in 2006 the long term future for Chronoswiss appeared to be extremely positive, but  it was with great sadness that we reported the news in January 2012 that the company had been sold.  New CEO Oliver Ebstein is described as a “passionate connoisseur” of watches, and as a man who is respectful of Mr. Lang’s achievements – but, perhaps most reassuring is the fact that this unique watchmaking company will continue trading as an independent family-owned business and not one which is part of a luxury goods conglomerate.

The unveiling of a new Régulateur in celebration of the company’s anniversary is entirely appropriate because when it was unveiled in 1987,  it  showcased the design direction which would become the company signature.   Here for the first time was the milled bezel, the oversize ‘onion’ crown, the exhibition caseback and soldered lugs which would become synonymous with the brand.  The piece had the distinction of being another ‘world’s first’ in that it was the first presentation of such a timepiece, with hours and minutes displayed separately, in wristwatch form – and it was quite simply stunning.

The highly decorative face of the  new Régulateur 30 features a duo of guilloché techniques, the symmetry of “chess board” finishing on the inner subdials and the more diminutive intricacy of a barleycorn pattern on the surrounding area.   These contrast with the plainness of the subdial rims and that superb digital jumping hours aperture at 12 o’clock.  The milled bezel and the outsize crown conform to the elaborateness and provide their own contrast to those proud outstretched lugs.

Two editions of the Chronoswiss Régulateur 30 will be available – rose gold case limited to 130 pieces, and stainless steel case limited to 200 pieces, each 40mm across and each powered by the Chronoswiss automatic C283 Calibre.

More details can be found at Chronoswiss here.

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Chronoswiss, the Munich-based watch company founded by Gerd-R Lang has been sold.  A 100% takeover has been agreed and the new owner is reported to be a Swiss investor.  Recognisable by their out-size “onion” crown, Chronoswiss timepieces are also known for their outstanding attention to detail and innovative mechanical movements.

Having spent his formative years at the watchmakers bench as an apprentice, Gerd-R Lang worked his way across the industry. On serving his apprenticeship, he found employment with the Heuer watch company where he served from 1964 working on the famous Heuer sports chronographs and stopwatches.

Following the death of its’ Patron, the Heuer brand had struggled for some years, and it was this period of instability (ultimately culminating in the takeover by Technologies d’Avant-Garde later in 1984) which triggered G-R Langs’ departure, taking with him in lieu of severance a stock of Heuer chronograph movements.

In 1980, having returned to further study his profession in Würzburg, Gerd-R Lang emerged with his new title of ‘Master Watchmaker’ and immediately commenced setting in place the corner stones for what would, in a few short years, become Chronoswiss.

Gerd-R Lang’s passion for mechanical watchmaking during a time when the industry had turned “quartz” produced a series of remarkable timepieces including the Chronoswiss Régulateur and Chronoswiss Sauterelle models.

Having moved into a new purpose-built facility in Karlsfeld, Munich in 2006 the long term future for Chronoswiss appeared to be extremely positive.  At this time it is not clear if financial difficulties are responsible for the re-sale of the brand or if the Lang family simply wish to turn away from watchmaking, whatever the reason for this news, we at The Watch Press wish them every success in the future.

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An extensive history of the Chronoswiss brand – and images of some remarkable Chronoswiss timepieces.

Our reviews of Chronoswiss watches.

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Chronoswiss present the Pacific Collection which will include the retro-tastic Pacific Chronograph.

You may be familiar with those faceted hour markers….. and those hands, well let’s just say that particular shape is not uncommon among the collections of other brands.  However these are design touches reminiscent of an era rather than other people’s portfolios, add the exceptional quality associated with Chronoswiss and this could be an extremely successful new/old mix for the brand.

What’s this…. no outsize onion crown?  No coin edging?  Think it’s not very Chronoswiss for a Chronoswiss?  You are so right -  that 42.5mm stainless steel case is polished but smooth-rimmed.  That winding crown is flat, restrained and wearable.  Of course what gets the Pacific Chronograph noticed is the use of green, on the pushers, the chronograph hands and that lean and lanky central seconds hand.

Inside is a Valjoux 7750 Chronograph movement with 42 hours power reserve.  Two dial variations are available, silver or black each with the clean, uncluttered design which Chronoswiss accomplish so beautifully.  The Pacific Chronograph will be officially unveiled during BaselWorld later this week and if Chronoswiss are revisiting this collection simply as a crowd-pleaser the design department have a winner.

The Chronoswiss Pacific Chronograph comes presented on a black leather strap with optional green stitching.

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To celebrate the Singapore Grand Prix 2010 Chronoswiss release a limited editon of its Grand Opus.

You may remember that the brand released the Opus Black Magic at Baselworld 2010 featuring the brand’s patented version of DLC – Dianor, which framed the  hand-skeletonisation and hand-engraving of the movement to superb effect, well the latest piece does a similar job with a few subtle changes.

Bright orange takes the place of red for the steel hands adding a striking contrast, with the title of the watch Opus Grand Prix featuring on the lower edge of the dial.  The Chronoswiss C 741 Calibre also powers this piece with a power reserve of 46 hours.  The individual number of each piece is engraved onto the sapphire crystal case back.

The Singapore Grand Prix, the first night-time event in F1 history takes place this year on the 26th September.  When Bernie Ecclestone signed the event up for a five year deal it was timed so European viewers could watch the event at convenient times i.e. night time in Singapore (we at the Watch Press would have simply stayed up all night and had a bit of a GP party..), yet it has become the most spectacular spectacle of the F1 calendar, second only to the Monaco event.  Other brands have chosen to release limited edition pieces in tribute to the Marina Bay Street Circuit race including Audemars Piguet, with their Off Shore and a monster of a piece from Franck Muller in the form of the Conquistador Singapore GP Racing Chronograph in 2009 well why not?  with every marketing department of every brand looking to the east this is hardly a suprise and commemorative pieces this year will include two pieces from TAG Heuer, a  Monaco Calibre 12 Chronograph and a Formula 1 Lady’s Ceramic limited edition.

The Chronoswiss Grand Opus Singapore Grand Prix will be a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide.

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Chronoswiss add a new piece to their collection – the Chronoswiss Sirius Triple Date.

The piece features day and month windows below the 12 o’clock position with a date dial combined with moonphase indicator at 6 o’clock hence the term “triple date” otherwise known as the “no excuses dear, how could you have forgotten our anniversary?…. haven’t  you got that fancy triple date indicating watch…..”

Chronoswiss have an elegant knack for retaining a pristinely uncluttered design regardless of the amount of information displayed on the dial and the Sirius Triple Date is no exception.  Alternate numerals and applied markers and exquisite hand-finished feuille or leaf-shaped hands and a trim, polished bezel complete the classical styling.

The piece is powered by the Chronoswiss Calibre C931 automatic movement, is available in 18 carat rose gold or steel and measures 40mm.

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Chronoswiss

Everyone has their favourites, and at The Watch Press, Chronoswiss are one of our own favourite watchmakers.

Unlike many of the ‘Old Masters’ which rightly constitute the majority of today’s most illustrious watchmakers and manufactures, the Chronoswiss history does not go back a hundred years or more. In fact, Chronoswiss are only this year, 2009, celebrating the occasion of their first quarter-century of producing their distinctive timepieces.

The company’s beginnings actually go back a little further to 1981, when its’ charismatic founder Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, having been immersed in the watch industry in many guises since the early 1960s, established his own workshop in Munich where he principally concentrated on various concepts based around the chronograph movement.

Chronoswiss founder; Gerd-Rüdiger Lang

Having spent his formative years at the watchmakers bench as an apprentice, Gerd-R Lang worked his way across the industry. On serving his apprenticeship, he found employment with the Heuer watch company where he served from 1964 working on the famous Heuer sports chronographs and stopwatches. This position had a few perks too, as in 1970 he found himself involved on behalf of Heuer with Steve McQueen in the classic ‘Le Mans’ movie – the iconic actor having a long-standing affair with the company’s Monaco chronograph watch, Gerd also shared McQueen’s passion for motor racing (and to this day competes himself in prestigious classic car events in his beloved Jaguar XK120) – indeed his passion for things mechanical would, in time, become his company slogan: “Faszination der Mechanik”.

Following the death of its’ Patron, the Heuer brand had struggled for some years, and it was this period of instability (ultimately culminating in the takeover by Technologies d’Avant-Garde later in 1984) which triggered G-R Langs’ departure, taking with him in lieu of severance a stock of Heuer chronograph movements.

In 1980, having returned to further study his profession in Würzburg, Gerd-R Lang emerged with his new title of ‘Master Watchmaker’ and immediately commenced setting in place the corner stones for what would, in a few short years, become Chronoswiss.

In the same year, 1980, he would also enjoy the distinction of being Official Timekeeper for Swiss Timekeeping at the Moscow Olympic Games. Quite a coup for a German watchmaker!

The first indicator of what was to come was also a world’s first from the Lang werk in Munich.

In 1982, a new mechanical chronograph with moonphase which featured a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback was unveiled bearing for the first time the name Chronoswiss. At a time when most pundits were eschewing the mechanical watch as old hat compared to the new high-tech quartz watches, in the same manner they would later discard their vinyl for the CD, here almost unbelievably, was this eccentric whose passion and belief in his beloved profession had driven him to show that the modern world was missing the whole point of the mechanical watch. And how better to demonstrate his views than with this conceptually advanced debut.

The next year, 1983, saw Chronoswiss move into its’ new facility in Munich. The company name was to symbolise the utilisation of the Swiss watchmaking ethic and the components which were exclusively sourced for the watches. The company was then officially registered in 1984 by its’ founder.

When Chronoswiss unveiled the Régulateur in 1987, it simultaneously showcased the design direction which would become the company signature. Here for the first time was the milled bezel, the oversize ‘onion’ crown, the exhibition caseback and soldered lugs which would become synonymous with the brand.

The Régulateur had the distinction of being another ‘world’s first’ in that it was the first presentation of such a timepiece, with hours and minutes displayed separately, in wristwatch form.

The Chronoswiss Régulateur

World’s firsts were to become something of a trademark which would be associated with Gerd R Lang’s brand, as many of the models which would come to make up the Chronoswiss portfolio were inventive interpretations of the wristwatch which pushed the boundaries of design, layout and functionality.

The distinctive design and function of Chronoswiss watches as well as Lang’s philosophical approach to showcasing and marketing his passion served to catapult the new watch brand into a respect among watch enthusiasts reserved normally for much older and illustrious manufactures.

A succession of new models would follow, each one in its’ own way a breakaway from the traditional, while at the same time still honouring the skills of the early master watchmakers in their functionality and complication.

The Chronoswiss Chronoscope

A browse across the Chronoswiss collection reveals a distinctive and comprehensive interpretation of complications, encompassing virtually all of the recognised watchmaking ‘masterpieces’.

As Chronoswiss matured, its’ following grew beyond the small number of enthusiasts who were interested in a quirky and headstrong German watchmaker.

Although not a ‘manufacture’ (the status afforded only to watchmakers where the entire design and construction of complication movements occurs in-house), here were hand assembled watches, with specialist skills such as the ‘skeletonisation’ of base movements outsourced to the very best craftsmen in their fields.

Due to this network of highly specialist watchmakers and decorators built up by G-R Lang in his years in the industry, the Chronoswiss catalogue could boast an impressive range of hand-assembled watches which offered a diverse array of functionality.

The Chronoswiss Digiteur

The Chronoswiss portfolio accommodates a broad selection of styles and functions ranging from Chronographs and Rattrapante, the Chronoscope, the Delphis (featuring retrograde minutes and digital hour display), through remarkable pieces like the Digiteur (above), which combines the analogue movement with a non-analogue display, its’ complete and perpetual calendars and moonphase watches on to the stunning Régulateur Tourbillon and Répétition á quarts timepieces.

In recent times, an important new addition to the portfolio has arrived and this piece, the fabulous Chronoswiss Sauterelle (Grasshopper!) models, complete with that famous quartz movement signature – jumping seconds – even though the movement is wholly mechanical!

The Chronoswiss Sauterelle 71

The new Sauterelle is noteworthy in that for the very first time, Chronoswiss have created this ground-breaking mechanical movement, from scratch, in-house, thereby becoming Chronoswiss’ first creation as a ‘manufacture’.

As well as paying tribute to the technical genius of his predecessors, G-R Langs’ Chronoswiss also worked with materials such as enamel – as seen on the beautiful Orea Handaufzug (or manual-wound) watch.

Ensuring continuity in the same mould as himself, Gerd-Rüdiger Lang proudly announced in 2003 the appointment as Junior President in the person of Natalie Lang, his own daughter, also a time-served and qualified watchmaker with business management skills.

Chronoswiss saw out 2006 with a December move into its’ brand new purpose-built manufacturing facility in Karlsfeld, a town in the suburbs of the Bavarian capitol, Munich.

A comparative newcomer then by industry standards, but a watchmaker whose naked passion for his craft, with a fine eye for distinctive design and layout combined with the essence of tradition has nonetheless elevated the Chronoswiss name to a level of respect across the industry and with aficionados enjoyed only by the highest echelons of the watchmaking world.

Gerd-Rüdiger Langs’ history may not reach back a hundred years or more, but those whose works so influenced him most certainly do!

We say “Thank heaven for people like Gerd-R!” and strongly recommend time spent delving deeper into his wonderful Chronoswiss brand and its’ philosophy.

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