Vacheron Constantin – does any other watch brand do more with regard to preservation of Haute Horlogerie traditions, especially the applied arts?  The traditional techniques of  hand-gulloché, cloisonné enamelling and champlevé enamelling are not only time consuming,  they require investment – not just in machinery, but in people too.  Years of training, years of  practice and years of mentoring are required to bring each individual up to the standards expected, but it is an investment more than worth it – the results are beyond exquisite.   The Manufacture has just received an award from the Florens Foundation, in recognition for its commitment to the promotion and protection of artistic crafts – the perfect tie in to this, the latest showcase for the brand’s artistic patronage, the Méitiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac which begins with the year of the snake.

As with all pieces in the Méitiers d’Art collection, teamwork is paramount.  Each dial moves back and forth from bench to bench as each artisan completes his or her individual painstaking part of the process.  First the leaf motif is hand-etched onto the dial then the splendid snake is reproduced in the dial centre, his scales alone requiring up to 30 hours of hand-crafting.

Then comes the highly specialised technique of Grand Feu enamelling, built up layer upon layer, timed and fired to perfection with no room for error.  The entire scene presents a 3-D aspect, particularly the snake, who is so imposing that he commands, and deserves dial domination.  This is achieved thanks to a hands-free time display featuring four apertures which indicate the hours, minutes ( via drag display) and the day and date (using  much more compelling jump mechanisms).

The intrinsics are as admirable as the extrinsics, inside the Calibre 2460 G4 has the superlative finishing required by the Hallmark of Geneva with the added luxury of a 22 carat gold rotor, characterised by the brand’s Maltese Cross form.  Each piece is presented in a 40mm polished case in either 18K pink gold or platinum, limited to 12 pieces of each variation.

More like this? Peruse our extensive Vacheron Constantin archives here.

Popularity: 1% [?]

Is the classically styled, slender-cased wristwatch experiencing an up-size? There was a time when a timepiece such as the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding model would have a case measurement which stopped well short of 40mm, 38mm being customary – now it would seem ultra-slim cases are getting broader dial-side yet at 41mm this piece is by no means voluminous.  For example, Hamilton have a “catch-all” attitude -  their Thin-O-Matic and Intra-Matic are available in both 38mm and 42mm cases, Piaget’s Altiplano may be svelte on the flank, but edge-to-edge it is a substantial 42mm and Cartier’s Extra-Flat Ballon Bleu de Cartier may be side-on skinny, but is in fact an almost beastly 46mm across.

The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding is elegantly beautiful, but cleverly styled.  The silvered, opaline dial, although uncluttered and wide appears less empty thanks to the elongated markers, the railtrack edge shrinks it further still and faceted dauphine hands are just enough to absorb the middle dial plainness.  So – if your yearning is for classy and classical but with added wrist presence then a 42mm case may be the answer, and this model would make for a sophisticated and educated choice.

Of course, with Vacheron Constantin you also partake of the brand’s rich history, both in years and also accomplishments.  This piece is powered by the brand’s acclaimed ultra-thin Calibre 1120, built and finished to the fastidious standard expected in order to meet the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva.  This meticulous handworking is all the more appreciable through the sapphire caseback because the rotor has been skeletonised and thus the panorama is as unbroken as possible.

For this model Vacheron Constantin choose pink gold for the case, applied markers and hands and here the exemplary finishing standards continue – the Hallmark of Geneva celebrated its 125th Anniversary last year with a new set of regulations which now take into account the exterior components as well as the calibre.  The Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 Day Tourbillon was the first watch to achieve the all-new Geneva Hallmark as we were pleased to report back in November.

The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding comes presented on a hand-stitched brown alligator leather strap.

More Vacheron Constantin? Dip into our extensive archives here.

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Popularity: 2% [?]

This year Vacheron Constantin celebrate the 100th Anniversary of their Malte Collection.  When presented to the industry in 1912, the first Malte wristwatches must have been veiwed as very snazzy indeed, with their generous but slender tonneau-shaped cases.

In celebration, four new models have been released, each featuring a re-worked case which stretches its barrel-shape a little further – a subtlety which slightly extends the dial space and one which adds more middle-case drama.

Each of the new pieces is meritorious in its own way, the Malte Tourbillon provides a superb look-see through its ample dial opening, the Malte Small Seconds has a perfectly proportioned recessed seconds subdial, and the Malte Lady has a bezel be-speckled with celebratory diamonds.  For this feature, we focus on the Malte 100th Anniversary Edition – unembellished, pure, simple and the piece which I believe best personifies and showcases the re-design.

Unlike the other pieces in the Malte Collection, this one replaces applied hour markers with a full set of painted Roman Numerals which elongate and diminish beautifully to replicate the case shape.

Only that which is essential remains, two faceted hands, the brand name and its symbol – a polished, applied Maltese Cross.

Inside is a reformed hand wound Calibre 4400, developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, which recently celebrated its 125th anniversary with a revised set of regulations which include the quality of not just the calibre, but also exterior components too.  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 day Tourbillon had the honour of being the first piece tested to the new criteria, and was therefore the first piece to receive the first “new” Poinçon de Genève.

The Vacheron Constantin Malte 100th Anniversary Edition is encased in 950 Platinum and will be a 100 piece limited edition.

More information at the brand’s Official Site.

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Popularity: 2% [?]

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Blue Dial.

Blue – the official colour of the Conservative party in the UK, the preferred colour of corporate America, a  symbol of loyalty and trust.  On a beach a blue flag tells of high environmental standards, in F1 a waved blue flag tells the driver of a lapped car to move aside and let the faster car by.  A blue dial on a watch, especially when paired with steel catches the light and catches the eye.  It is just the right side of stylish – refined, but not in the least bit stuffy.

There is much to admire in the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph, aside from its rich dial colour.  It is, at 42mm, perfectly proportioned and has just enough case overspill to frame its “Maltese Cross” bezel.  It features a satisfyingly deep double date aperture, chubby hour markers and hands and, for this piece fine polishing at each subdial rim.

Each timepiece in Vacheron Constantin’s portfolio has been made with meticulous attention to detail.  The brand are the oldest continuous manufacturer of watches in the world and their popularity remains ever-strong, rarely do they leave SIHH with an order book which is not filled to capacity.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Blue Dial comes presented on a superb steel bracelet featuring the spiked points of the Maltese Cross.  Also available is a rose gold edition on brown alligator leather strap.

More information at the brand’s official website.

More Vacheron Constantin?  Dip into our original archives here.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Vacheron Constantin unveil images of the three designs which will form the last of the exquisite Métiers d’Art La Symbolique des Laques.  We first featured the collection back in 2010, and even though Vacheron Constantin are guardians of the applied arts and traditional horological techniques, it was considered to be an artistically challenging collection  from the beginning and rightly so.

“Maki-e”, an ancient Japanese lacquering art is used on each piece, not just on the dial, but also on the caseback – a delicate and sophisticated procedure. The method  involves sprinkling gold or silver dust over still-wet lacquer.    Not suprisingly each set of three watches released by Vacheron Constantin over a period of three years is strictly limited to 20 pieces.

The last set of three styles honour both the beauty of the seasons and the “Japanese tradition of contemplation”.  The pieces are named Hanami, Tsukimi and Yukimi and each portrays an admirable scene – Spring cherry blossom, an Autumnal full moon and Winter snowflakes.

Each is crafted from 18-carat gold and features an ultra-slim 40mm case.  Inside is the 1003SQ , the world’s thinnest hand-wound movement, created by Vacheron Constantin, stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva and meticulously finished by the brand’s Master Craftsmen and women – some of the best in the industry.  The calibre has been crafted from  18-carat gold then treated with ruthenium to compliment the unusual dials.  The hand-finishing techniques used include engraving, chamfering and straightgraining.   This is a showcase calibre for a showcase collection.

The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art La Symbolique des Laques for 2012 is the last staged release in the collection, all three designs will each be produced in a 20 piece limited edition.

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The Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris – Chagall’s entire Paris Opéra ceiling artwork reproduced on a watch dial (worth a second look…)

The Métiers d’Art – Les Univers Infinis - Presented this year at SIHH – “tessellation” and Dutch artist M.C. Escher inspire the collection.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Here is a look-see at the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 day Tourbillon which will be officially unveiled at SIHH 2012.  For the styling of the piece Vacheron Constantin’s Master Watchmakers dig deep into the classical pieces of the brand’s history …..  and quite a history it is too, Vacheron Constantin have  been continually making watches for longer than anyone else.

A traditionally styled piece then, and one which has a number of fine features – an opaline silvered dial, facetted baton hour markers, a slender silhouette and a trim bezel.  The brand’s “Maltese Cross” logo, first introduced in 1880 forms the carriage of the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, a tourbillon so generously proportioned that the hour and minute hands are respectfully off-centred to allow it the dial presence it deserves.  At 12 o’clock is an exquisite horseshoe-shaped power reserve indicator.

Inside is the handwound Calibre 2260 which produces its more than ample 14 days of power from four barrels mounted in pairs.  When Vacheron Constantin construct a tourbillon movement they normally do so with three bridges, the Calibre 2260 has two which provides an eye-pleasingly large “canvas” for the finishing techniques used by the brand’s craftsmen and a technical challenge when it comes to the assembly and repair of the individual piece.

The Hallmark of Geneva recently celebrated its 125th anniversary with a revised set of regulations which include the quality of not just the calibre, but also exterior components too.  Watch collectors may wish to note, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 day Tourbillon has the honour of being the first piece tested to the new criteria, and therefore the first piece to receive the first “new” Poinçon de Genève.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle 14 day Tourbillon measures 42mm across, is constructed from 18 carat pink gold and comes presented on a brown handstitched alligator leather strap.

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The Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia

The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris

Popularity: 3% [?]

Watch industry news headlines have been awash with information on pieces released for the biennial charity “Only Watch” auction which will take place later this year in Monaco.  Each watch will be a “piece unique” and all proceeds will go towards the Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy charity.  The Vacheron Constantin Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia is also a one-of-a-kind watch.  Unlike the “Only Watch” auction pieces however, this one already has an owner.  A bit of a teaser then? No.  A fine example of what a Master Watchmaker can achieve when given the requirements of a discerning collector.  After all there are many people around the world who could easily afford a bespoke watch such as this one but who would never consider investing in such a creation, preferring instead to go with something altogether more mainstream and more recognisable.

Well known for having an ethos of preserving Haute Horlogerie traditions, especially with regard to fine arts such as enamelling, engraving and engine turning, Vacheron Constantin created their Atelier Cabinotiers in 2006.  It is perhaps entirely suitable that the world’s oldest watch manufacture should provide such a service bringing watchmaker and customer together to develop a timepiece from conception to final creation, taking the process back in time to when unique pocket watches were produced in single edtions for individual clients.

The Philosophia may look clean and uncluttered yet it is a very complicated timepiece.  Time is indicated by a single hand, for hours, on a 24 hour scale.  With no minutes indication you may assume that the exact time is unimportant to the wearer yet a generous openworked section of the dial showcases a precision-enhancing 60-second tourbillon, design choices which are sure to befuddle the purists.  When required the precise time can be obtained acoustically as the Philosophia features a minute repeater which will sound the hour, quarter hour and the minutes in pure, sweet tones.  The moonphase display at 9 o’clock looks unusual, is unusual – it has also been made to the customer’s exact needs and features a handcrafted moon with visible craters.  A sapphire crystal caseback gives a glimpse of some of the meticulous hand-decoration of the movement, the micro hammers of the minute repeater and the unique constellation-inspired power reserve indicator.  The Philosophia is presented in a 43mm rose gold watchcase.

Popularity: 3% [?]

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the “Friends of  Paris Opera”, Vacheron Constantin present a very special and unique piece, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris “Tribute to Famous Composers”.

Preservation of applied arts is an integral part of the philosophy at Vacheron Constantin, a commitment evident in the brand’s Métiers d’Art collection.  The latest piece sets a new standard in what can be achieved in miniature Grand Feu enamel painting techniques.

The Masterwork of the collection the "Tribute to Famous Composers"

In 1963 the French Minister of Culture commissioned the Russian-born artist Marc Chagall to re-paint the 220 square metre ceiling of the Paris Opéra also known as Palais Garnier.  Taking one year to complete, he created a vividly colourful tribute to honour the greatest composers, a work split into five sections each featuring a dominant colour – blue, green, white, yellow and red.

For their Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris watch Vacheron Constantin achieved a seemingly impossible task – to reproduce Chagall’s entire artwork in miniature on an enamel dial measuring just 31mm.  The challenge took over three and a half months to complete using traditional techniques.  The result is beyond exquisite.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chagall & l’Opéra de Paris

At the edge of the hand painted enamel dial tiny little Nymph heads each measuring 2mm (also a feature of the Palais ceiling) have been reproduced and the resplendent artwork is framed by a trim polished gold bezel.  Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s automatic Calibre 2460.

The collection will consist of 15 unique pieces.  The remaining 14 will be created over the next two years and each will honour one of the composers featured on the original ceiling painting.  The first piece in the collection featured here is quite literally priceless, it will not be sold and will remain part of the Vacheron Constantin collection.

Chagall's ceiling at l’Opéra de Paris

Popularity: 4% [?]

Vacheron Constantin present a new piece – the Overseas Dual Time Steel and Titanium.

Vacheron Constantin are the oldest continuous manufacturer of watches in the world, although in recent years its classically refined portfolio has been revised to include the more contemporary sporty Overseas collection first introduced in 1998. The latest addition uses both steel and titanium in its construction and is fairly monochrome in appearance, those with more traditional tastes would perhaps prefer one of the older models in rose gold with white dial.

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Steel and Titanium

The piece displays hours, minutes, sweep seconds, date, second time zone subdial at 6 o’clock, day/night indication and power reserve display, all packed into the slate grey dial which is well designed therefore highly legible.   This dark beauty also has secret powers, its  Calibre 1222 VC automatic movement has a precision booster in the form of a soft iron core magnetic field protector.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Steel and Titanium comes presented with a choice of grey leather or black rubber straps.

Popularity: 3% [?]

With a refreshing change from recent new watch releases featuring cutting edge composite construction materials comes a new collection from the world’s oldest manufacturer of watches, Vacheron Constantin – the Métiers d’Art La Symbolique des Laques.

Preservation of Haute Horlogerie traditions, especially with regard to applied arts – enamelling, engraving and engine turning is an integral part of the philosophy of the Vacheron Constantin brand and a demonstration of this commitment is evident in the Métiers d’Art collections the latest of which, La Symbolique des Laques has just been unveiled.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Ensemble

The Symbolique des Laques will feature craftsmanship carried out outside Geneva, a first for the Métiers d’Art collection.  This will be “out-sourcing” at its most delicate, in the form of lacquer decoration carried out by the House of Zôhiko, Japan, experts in this craft since 1661.

Like its predecessor the “Les Masques” collection, La Symbolique des Laques will be a staged release, this time in a set of three new watches per year, each in a limited release of twenty for a period of three years, with each set depicting symbolic designs synonymous with Far East traditions.

A traditional Japanese lacquering technique will be used, a method which involves sprinkling gold or silver dust over still-wet lacquer, a sophisticated procedure known as “maki-e”.  The pieces in this exceptional collection will have lacquered scenes front and back framing Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin Calibre 1003, crafted in 14 carat white gold and appearing in its skeletonized form.

The Vacheron Constantin craftsmen were not entirely redundant on this project, the bevelling visible through the front and back sapphire crystals as expected will be of an unsurpassed quality.  Each piece will be presented in an elegantly rounded watchcase, each an individual mini masterpiece ……… and not a fragment of forged carbon in sight.

Popularity: 3% [?]

On an evening of many awards, it was the Vacheron Constantin Historiques America 1921 upon which was eventually bestowed the night’s highest honour amid competition from Corum’s Ti-Bridge which claimed second prize and the Montblanc for its “Nicolas Rieussec Chronographe Monopoussoir” which merited third prize.

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 itself is one of those wonderfully liberated designs in an 18Kt pink gold cushion case and with a dial so offset that twelve o’clock actually resides where one would expect to find the two – on any other timepiece!

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

As with many less conventional designs, there is a good story behind this particular layout. The legend claiming that in 1921 a watch with this curious characteristic was specifically ordered from the manufacture by a man of the cloth who, on every holy day, would hold his flock in thrall while he fulfilled his role as their moral and spiritual guardian as he remonstrated and educated from his pulpit. Although to his congregation, whose eyes dared not look away from their shepherd, he was seemingly blissfully oblivious to the passing of time, he cunningly had his skewed wristwatch which he could glimpse without any discernable break in his rythym as his sermon rung out to his people!

The Vacheron Consantin Historiqes American 1921 houses the Calibre 4400 AS within its 40mm x 40mm case.

Popularity: 2% [?]