St. Valentine’s Day watch editions.   The perfect excuse for watch manufacturers to “let it rip” in their ladies watch design department, an opportunity to add a bit of bling here and there and a chance to pinkify the portfolio.  Just harmless candy coating eh?  Actually Valentine’s “tribute” watches are becoming quite serious business.

Blancpain, for example present a new “Saint Valentin” piece each year, a sprinkling of girly-ness on the outside, but inside these editions are powered by self-winding calibres with added complications – flyback chronographs, moonphase indications and complete calendar functions.  And there’s more – Frédérique Constant have in their portfolio the Double Heart Beat Collection, some of which have exquisite intertwined hearts on the dial, and of course Hublot have a Big Bang Valentine edition.  All of these are quite appealing, all are contenders, but one piece stands out – not just for its aesthetics – because it too is a beauty, but because it is powered by the perfectly precise El Primero movement, the original – best? automatic chronograph.  This is the Zenith Queen of Love Star Open.

Inside the 37.5mm rounded case, the El Primero 4021 beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accurate time measuring to 1/10th of a second.  A solid bi-directional central rotor, decorated for the occasion produces a respectable power reserve of 50 hours.  A heart-shaped aperture allows a look-see through to the calibre and that little heart fluttering at the cut-away is not just a quaint love token, it serves as a seductive ever-moving small seconds display.  At 3 o’clock is a 30 minute counter and above 6 o’clock  is surely the most loved-up power reserve indicator ever produced with it’s graduating dispay and “Cupidon Love Hand”.  The dial is silvered with guilloché decoration a backdrop for those distinctive, curly-swirly Zenith numerals.  Not syrupy in the slightest, this is simply the most perfect Valentine’s Day/Birthday/Anyday gift ever… especially if she is calibre-conscious.

The piece shown here is in stainless steel, but also available were 18 carat yellow and rose gold editions, and an obligatory diamond-set option, all forming part of the Zenith portfolio of 2006 – missed it? Keep searching…. they’re out there.

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Chronoswiss, the Munich-based watch company founded by Gerd-R Lang has been sold.  A 100% takeover has been agreed and the new owner is reported to be a Swiss investor.  Recognisable by their out-size “onion” crown, Chronoswiss timepieces are also known for their outstanding attention to detail and innovative mechanical movements.

Having spent his formative years at the watchmakers bench as an apprentice, Gerd-R Lang worked his way across the industry. On serving his apprenticeship, he found employment with the Heuer watch company where he served from 1964 working on the famous Heuer sports chronographs and stopwatches.

Following the death of its’ Patron, the Heuer brand had struggled for some years, and it was this period of instability (ultimately culminating in the takeover by Technologies d’Avant-Garde later in 1984) which triggered G-R Langs’ departure, taking with him in lieu of severance a stock of Heuer chronograph movements.

In 1980, having returned to further study his profession in Würzburg, Gerd-R Lang emerged with his new title of ‘Master Watchmaker’ and immediately commenced setting in place the corner stones for what would, in a few short years, become Chronoswiss.

Gerd-R Lang’s passion for mechanical watchmaking during a time when the industry had turned “quartz” produced a series of remarkable timepieces including the Chronoswiss Régulateur and Chronoswiss Sauterelle models.

Having moved into a new purpose-built facility in Karlsfeld, Munich in 2006 the long term future for Chronoswiss appeared to be extremely positive.  At this time it is not clear if financial difficulties are responsible for the re-sale of the brand or if the Lang family simply wish to turn away from watchmaking, whatever the reason for this news, we at The Watch Press wish them every success in the future.

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New for 2012 is the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT.  This is the first time that the brand have added a GMT complication to one of their “proprietary” movements – and on the dial things look a bit different too…..

The textured dial pattern, characteristic of Aqua Terra models remains – there would be a backlash from fans if that were fiddled with – no, the model has undergone as few changes as possible in order for it to become a timepiece capable of indicating two timezones.  Omega’s designers have taken the 24 hour ring from the outer edge of the dial, and have relocated it further into the dial so that its numerals rest between the razor-sharp tip of each spiked hour marker.  Furthermore, the date window has been moved to the 6 o’clock position, resting within the GMT ring for added balance/confusion?

An unusual GMT dial layout then, but not completely original, Seiko have used a similar format for their Grand Seiko Automatic GMT and I distinctly remember an ultra-busy Glycine Airman which used both inner and outer dial space in order to display three timezones.

The Aqua Terra is a suberb collection, which you would have to say will always have appeal, good looks aside though this piece also has another “unique selling point” – inside is Omega’s Co-Axial Calibre 8605/8615 in which the brand have invested and now perfected – a movement which, once regulated should remain not only precise, but also maintenance-free for longer as it requires almost no lubrication.  In addition to the rather handsome steel model featured here, an 18 carat red gold case and a steel and red gold case edition are also available.

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT comes presented on a choice of either bracelet or matching leather strap.

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This is the Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch which will be unveiled at SIHH 2012, a piece which in the true heritage of traditional watchmaking has its creation measured in the hours, days – weeks even, taken by the craftsmen chosen to produce it.

This is a timepiece with a compendium of fine features, the instantly recognisable Cartier Roman Numerals have been painstakenly cutaway, revealing themselves taller and prouder than ever, blued steel hands (-what else?) are in complete entente with the crowning blue cabochon, the “C” bridge tourbillon – all combine to make this a striking and substantial piece.

The manual winding Calibre 9436MC features not only a tourbillon, but also a mono pusher chronograph and a perpetual calendar.  The latter uses its marvellous mechanical memory to count the days, weeks and months while taking into account variations of the months and also leap years – only a quirk in the Gregorian calendar which rules that 2100 will be a Secular year causes it confusion, so adjustment will be required on March 1st of that year.

This is a tactile and considerable piece handcrafted from 18 carat gold and measuring 59mm across.  As you”d imagine it is fairly weighty too but Cartier have thought of that and each piece comes with an equally grandiose obsidian and rock crystal stand.

The Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch will be a limited release of 10 pieces with a 5 piece diamond set edition to follow in 2012.

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Just released are details of the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar.

Not everyone likes the fussiness of a decorated watch dial.  For some there’s nothing quite like the plain high-legibility of a classic Pilot’s watch.  IWC are more than accomplished in the creation of clean-cut aviation pieces – I know of no man who would not gain an extra swagger if he had one of their Pilot’s Chronos strapped to his wrist.

This one has the added bravado of IWC’s in-house Calibre 89365 with a flyback function and a mighty 168 hours of power reserve.  Maybe you’re more familiar with a pilot’s watch with a big black face and white numerals?  This one has a sharp combination of a matt anthracite dial with covert colours for the hands and chapter ring.  The case measures 48mm across (… great, the more the better when a watch looks this good …) and is made from anti-scratch grey ceramic.  A military-styled textile strap completes the utilitarian styling.

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Miramar will form part of the brands new releases to be presented a SIHH 2012.

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At SIHH 2012 Cartier will officially unveil the Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon, a striking piece with a three-dimensional dial so deep that you could become instantly immersed – images won’t do this one justice, it simply has to be seen on the wrist.

Cartier are a worldwide symbol of luxury and elegance, I have yet to meet anyone who does not find agreement with something in their portfolio.  These are effortlessly stylish pieces.  Perhaps you’ve noticed Cartier’s highly recognisable plain but prominent Roman numerals or the textured dial finishes and rail track trims – maybe it’s the splendid little cabochon-set crown which catches your eye.  All are features synonymous with Cartier watches, and all are present on the Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon, but this is no subtle dress watch, it is a boldly styled piece with a thoroughly modern twist.

Most striking is the 3D dial.  The open-worked Roman numerals on the left graduate to nil as the asymetric hours and minutes dial dominates the right side, as if that innocent little convex sapphire in the crown has distorted the whole thing with an almost lunar effect.

An inspired design – but not only that, just above 6 o’clock is a tricky little flying tourbillon, a marvellous mesmerising structure which appears to levitate above its bridges and into which a subtle letter “C” has been formed.

The Cartier Calibre 9458 MC which powers the piece has been awarded the Geneva Seal, evidence of Cartier’s ascendency into the upper stratum of Haute Horlogerie.  The case has been crafted from 18 carat grey gold and measures a very manly 46.2mm across.  Power reserve is up to 50 hours and the piece is water resistance to 30m.

The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon watch will be a limited edition of 100 pieces.

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In the build up to SIHH 2012 comes pre-show details of the Richard Mille RM037, a piece with a new in-house Calibre, the CRMA1.

Technical advancements and innovations are the norm at Richard Mille.  There is a methodological process involved in achieving the end product of all Richard Mille watches, one which is often measured in the hours and even days taken to produce even the most minute components.  Similar to the technology used to perfect and balance monocoque and engine in Formula One, watch case and calibre are constructed to have increased performance, precision and durability.

The new in-house Calibre CRMA1 features a number of re-designed features – the crown has been separated from the watch case, the removal of a winding stem means that there is a minimum risk of damage if the crown receives an impact; the new barrel rotates faster improving performance and precision; new gear teeth on the wheels of the going train result in better transmission of power to the balance wheel; there is a new rotor and new re-worked screws for all the major components – to design a new calibre, the Master Watchmakers at Richard Mille don’t tweak and fiddle with what’s in their spare parts tray, they begin with a blank sheet.  All the improvements made have a common goal – a more precise timepiece which is as close to indestructible as possible.

Two pushers are used for re-setting functions in place of a conventional crown.  The pusher at 4 o’clock is for winding (W), neutral (N) and hand setting (H) with an aperture at 4 o’clock on the dial to display the chosen option and at 10 o’clock is a pusher for the date change.

The convex case measures 52.2mm x 34.4mm and has, as always, been constructed using cutting edge techniques and more than a few trick manufacturing methods which ensure durability.  The Calibre CRMA1 has been created using skeletonised titanium and produces a mighty 50 hours of power reserve.

The Richard Mille RM037 will be available in Titanium, Red Gold or White Gold editions.

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Popularity: 2% [?]

This is the Greubel Forsey GMT, the latest timepiece from Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, masters of watchmaking, masters of innovation.  The pair are best known in the industry for their development of the tourbillon, they cannot resist experimenting with its complexities, tweaking it and putting their own “spin” on the fiddley little contraption.  Last year Greubel Forsey scooped the Golden Hand award at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, horological equivalent of the “Oscars” for their superb Double Tourbillon 30° Edition Historique – featuring a tourbillon caged within a cage, inclined at an angle of  30°.  The latest release also features a tourbillon – there would be industry rumblings if it didn’t, but it is the GMT function which makes this piece special.

Remember the globe that your teacher used to have on her desk when you were a child?  Greubel and Forsey bring it to their GMT watch in miniature 3D form to educate, captivate and to indicate the time in locations around the world.  The globe constructed from titanium rotates just like the real thing – once per 24 hours, anticlockwise.  Around it is a 24 hour ring which serves to reference time with global position – for night-time 6pm to 6am the ring is black, for daytime 6am to 6pm the ring is white.

A cleverly positioned window on the watchcase side works on two levels – it allows in light to emphasise the daytime half of the world and it also enables the wearer to have a continued view of the world.

What this timepiece does is make a complete visual representation of time around the world possible – who is having a sunrise, who is experiencing a sunset, who is awake, who is asleep – instantly.  At the 10 o’clock position is a dial for a chosen second time zone with a quick set function on the case side.  Also on the 18 carat gold dial are hours and minutes at 1 o’clock, small seconds at 2 and a power reserve indication at 3 o’clock.

The watchcase measures 43.5mm across and is made from white gold, Greubel Forsey do not mind adding the odd bulge on their cases to accommodate their dial indications – they are quite a feature,  this one protrudes for both the global sphere and for the tourbillon and still manages to look elegant.

There’s more?  On the caseback, another superb feature, a disc scripted like an optical illusion, which displays the names of 24 cities around the world.  Simply match up a location with its designated local time on either the outer or inner 24 hour ring to set the globe on the dial to the correct position, the inner ring is for cities with summertime.  If this sounds confusing, my words are at fault – this is a complex function made simple and user friendly.

Inside and out immaculate hand finishing techniques are showcased.  The calibre features two co-axial barrels which give a generous 72 hours of power reserve despite the constant energy required to power the ever-spinning globe and the other indications.

The Greubel Forsey GMT watch comes presented on a hand-sewn black alligator strap.

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Popularity: 2% [?]

The Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod New Moon watch is perhaps a more subdued edition of the first Lunokhod watch released by the Saint Petersburg Master Watchmaker, yet the refinements do little to dampen down the impact of this watch.  It is still one of the most striking Moon Phase watches you are ever likely to see.

The first Lunokhod watch, named in honour of Russia’s pioneering moon rover launched in the seventies was constructed from wootz, a granular material – masculine, the stuff of daggers and swords.  At its dial centre a wootz ball representing the phases of the moon.  The limited edition Lunokhod New Moon swaps wootz for 18 carat gold, a noble and majestic metal and one which showcases the piece beautifully.  For this edition the moonphase is represented by a saltwater pearl, flawless and rare – the selection process of which would be excruciatingly difficult to say the least.  The pearl remains static while a silver mask serves to indicate the current lunar phase.  An inspired and original concept.

On the dial some subtle changes.  Minutes are displayed on a retrograde indication on the lower dial where previously the piece had a minutes subdial and the dial has been constructed from sapphire crystal allowing an mesmerising look-see at the micro-mechanics contained within.  On the upper dial the hours are displayed in both 12 and 24 hour format with sun and moon indicators for day and night. The unusual case shape remains this time constructed from satin brushed and polished 18 carat gold with chunky lugs which extend to form a frame around the dial.  Inside is a handmade calibre designed and created by Konstantin Chaykin.

The Lunokhod New Moon watch will be a limited edition of just 12 pieces.

More information on Konstantin Chaykin at his official website.

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Popularity: 3% [?]

This is the Records TB 10 000 Tours watch from BRM.  The brand state that “no other watch in the world is so impregnated with mechanical sports”  – you have my attention Monsieur Richards.

The watches produced by  BRM have a divine mix of vintage cars, motorsport and horology – these are small series, hand made pieces produced in a small workshop by a team of craftsmen and women committed to upholding the reputation of the company name, a manufacturing process reminiscent of the small scale production of the finest sports cars of years gone by.  It’s a comparison that simply has to be made. From the complex case construction to the unique screws, even the most miniscule component is created on-site, a process which results in a portfolio of individually unique watches.

The man behind BRM is Bernard Richards. When he founded his watchmaking brand, unusually located in France, he did so in contrast to the manufactures over the border in Switzerland, what he created is the antithesis of mass-production, a workshop akin to the “Garagistas” of the automotive industry.

BRM’s boss is a self-taught designer with a love of motorsport and automotive engineering, evident in the use of chequered flag motifs on cases and straps and in the construction of engine-shaped parts – forget chrono pushers shaped like air-ducts, this brand build watch parts similar to engine bits for functionality not aesthetics – like integrated shock absorbers. It is not just the praise-worthy ethos of this brand that will impress, these are unusual watches – each model features complex cases onto which the lugs are then screwed, this lends itself to contrasting finishes and a level of personalisation which other brands are unable to offer.  The brand are also unique in the industry for having a web site which is a pleasure to visit, one which true petrolheads will be unable to resist, turn up the volume on your system and enjoy (link at the end of this article).

The BRM Records TB watch has a sculpted case which when worn displays the time at the perfect angle for readability while driving, most useful when a quick flick of the wrist could send you into the nearest ditch at a high speed.  A true driver’s watch then, and one that looks great, is great.

Inside is a ETA 2671 which required heavy modification so it could operate at a 90 degree angle.   That unusual case measures 44 x 25.5mm and is made from titanium and stainless steel with the addition of some very tasty carbon fibre plates.  On the black dial are red hour, minute and seconds hands with the outsize 12-4-8 numerals synonymous with BRM.  The watch is named 10 000 Tours in tribute to Dix Mille Tours which has just completed a second successful season of classic racing on a mix of old and new European circuits.

The BRM Records TB 10 000 Tours watch will be a limited edition piece, each presented on a superb perforated leather strap with contrasting stitching.

More info at the BRM official web site.

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