For 2013 Zenith unveil a new collection of Pilot watches, here we feature the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar, which with its well designed and perfectly placed compendium of indications captures the spirit of the collection’s cockpit-inspired styling and is rather handsome to boot.

Last year Zenith unveiled a superb trio of aeronautical timepieces in celebration of a time when Zenith not only supplied precision cockpit instruments, but were also the watch of choice for some of the world’s most celebrated pilots, an entirely appropriate scenario for the brand who originally trademarked the term “Pilot” so no other watchmaker could use it.

Perhaps you may recall the 2012 Montre d’Aéronef Type 20, at 57.5mm across its out-sized case was proportionate considering that it was built around a pocketwatch calibre, the Zenith 5011.  This year’s continuation of the portfolio engenders more wearable pieces while retaining the authentic Pilot characteristics including the huge, grippy crown and the big manly squared-off lugs.

On the dial everything is readable and usable, the generous lume-filled Arabic numerals, the twin day and month apertures at 3, the date at six and the slightly overlapping counters.  The distinctive chubby hands, synonymous with the original 1938 Type 20 continue the authenticity.

Inside is the El Primero 4054B movement, an evolution of the brand’s in-house El Primero chronograph calibre to which the Annual calendar complication has been added using just nine moving parts, a suprising simplification which we have seen before in the Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar c/o the component-minimalising expertise of Ludwig Oechslin.

Two editions of the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar will be available, titanium case with 18 carat rose gold bezel or a stainless steel version each with a case size of 48mm.

More Zenith? Dip into our archives here.

Popularity: 1% [?]

The Zenith Academy Minute Repeater.

2012 – A fortuitous year for Zenith?  I’ll say.  Jean-Frédéric Dufour, the brand’s CEO has overseen a restructure which has brought them back into the limelight, back to their classical styling and traditional values and back in to favour with their customers.

This year’s splendid trio of Pilot watches were the darlings of the watch media, a new El Primero 1969 Chronograph was the perfect blend of retro and cutting edge and the new Star Open Collection for ladies, a cushion-shaped beauty, certainly caught my eye.

So – how do you crown such a year?  Zenith do it with a hat-trick of Masterpiece models to add to their Academy Grand Complications Collection, one of which we feature here, the Zenith Academy Minute Repeater.

A Minute Repeater is a notoriously tricky complication and its complexity would confound all but the most skilled and patient Master Watchmakers.  Zenith bring to  the bench a new patented mechanism – one track, three chimes, designed to ensure clarity, consistency of tone and perfect precision.  Integrated into and working alongside the Minute Repeater is an automatic high precision chronograph – that’s a total of 461 micro engineering components packed into a 45mm case – superb.

The El Primero 4043 movement is housed in the elegantly rounded Elite case, and wisely Zenith choose to construct it from 18 carat Rose Gold, warm and luxurious.  Finishing is meticulous including a 22-carat gold oscillating weight embellished with Côtes de Genève decoration.

Add a silver-toned guilloché dial, a little snailing on the counters, a combination of blued and gold hands and some slender elongated Roman Numerals and the result is unconditional and understated perfection.  More if it were needed comes in the form of a look-see through to the tiny hammers on the dial between 2 and 4 o’clock.

The Zenith Academy Minute Repeater comes presented on a lined alligator strap with an 18 carat gold triple folding clasp.

Dip into our Zenith archives for the whole shebang of 2012 pieces and more.

Popularity: 2% [?]

For those who lean towards choosing a wristwatch with an uncluttered face.  For those among you who do not feel the need to time a lap or maybe just an egg.  For those who never feel inclined to split the seconds then sometimes three hands are enough.

The Zenith El Primero Espada, released earlier this year ticks all the boxes – clean, classical, uncomplicated and quite frankly, gorgeous.  The decider? Inside is the El Primero 4650B automatic movement, the non-chronograph variety,  industriously vibrating at 36,000 vph.  Read more about it here.

Popularity: 2% [?]

The New Zenith Star Open Collection for 2012.

Zenith are back.  It’s been a great year or two for the brand’s design department which has taken them back to their traditional values and classical styling.  If you like the WatchPress.com then you’ll know that we like them.  After a superb collection of Pilot watches, here comes something for girly wrists – a new collection of Zenith Star Open models.

If you’ve admired the Star Open collection in the past, perhaps you’ve appreciated it’s compendium of curves – rounded case, feminine pushers and curly, swirly graduating numerals.  I featured one as a Valentine’s Day special, the Queen of Love Star Open – surely the most romantic chronograph available.  The new pieces see a departure from the circular case to an equally voluptuous cushion-shaped caase, and with a nod to classical-ism some elongated Roman numerals – an instant make-over which creates a more formal and elegant variation.

Two dial editions are available, white mother-of-pearl or silvered guilloché, two case editions are available, stainless steel or rose gold – but these are trivialities, what is most important and what draws the eye is the heart-shaped cut-away where a seductive little heart counts the seconds and through which the escapement of the El Primero Calibre 4062 can be viewed.

The case measures 37x37mm with sapphire crystal front and back, neat tucked-in pushers and tapering lugs.  The hour and minutes hands are faceted and a central chronograph hand reaches right to the dial edge which features a fine railtrack chapter ring, an elegant detail echoed in the 30-min counter at three o’clock.  Further dressing-up, if it were needed comes thanks to a perfect little cabochon sapphire-set crown.  Those in the know will shun the sparkle and go for the stainless steel lesser-diamond version, serious kit and not in the slightest bit syrupy.

The Zenith Star Open 2012 collection come presented on a choice of brown or black alligator leather straps.

Our Zenith Archives – Includes the trio of superb Pilot watches new for 2012 and some more manly El Primero pieces…

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Popularity: 2% [?]

Continuing the trilogy of Pilot watches unveiled by Zenith this year here’s the Zenith Pilot Big Date Special.  Zenith describe this one as “Modern, balanced, classic, masculine…” and they’re right.  There are many fine Pilot-styled watches out there, but if you were given the chance to slip this one into your collection, well – you just would, wouldn’t you?

Zenith’s boss Jean-Frédéric Dufour ordered his design department to create a limited edition aviation-inspired watch for release in 2011, and the 500 piece edition was snapped up so readily that you would have to question the wisdom of a brand who were canny enough to trademark the term “Pilot” so no other watchmaker could use it, but who were daft enough not to make a “Pilot” watch since the 1960′s.

Of the three Pilot watches produced by Zenith this year, the Big Date has been singled out for special attention and would appear to be the most popular.  It certainly has all the required aviation-inspired attributes – the clarity of  white numbers and counters against a matt black dial, in-proportion counters and of course that “Big Date” aperture at 6 o’clock …. but there’s more.  There is a little quirkiness in the style of those white numerals, a little extra character in the deeply recessed date window and just a little extra diligence given to the contrasting finishing on the case.  It would appear that despite the years of discontinuity, that when it comes to creating a Pilot watch, Zenith still have the knack.

The Zenith Pilot Big Date Special is powered by the selfwinding El Primero Calibre 4010 movement with 50 hours of power reserve housed within a 43mm steel case and comes presented on a hand-stitched leather strap or a mesh bracelet.

More Zenith?

The other two Zenith  “Pilot” watches of 2012, the Zenith Pilot Doublematic World Timer and the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20

……………. or just something superbly sporty.

Popularity: 8% [?]

This is the Zenith Pilot Doublematic World Timer, one of a trio of superb aeronautical timepieces unveiled by Zenith for 2012, which hark back to a time when the brand  supplied not only precision cockpit instruments, but were also the watch of choice for some of the world’s most celebrated pilots.

We have already featured the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20, the Doublematic is every bit as handsome and is more than useful – it displays the instantly readable time in 24 time zones, it features an alarm function and it also packs in a 30-minute chronograph – that’s a whole caboodle of information, but on the dial all is orderly and neatly displayed, 24 city locations on an outer disc, day/night on an inner disc, the 30-minute counter a-top the number 3 and a generous date aperture located at 2 o’clock – an arrangement which leaves ample space for the alarm function.

And this is an alarm you can depend on – the calibre has two spring barrels, one of which is dedicated solely to powering the alarm function, once set using the pushpiece and crown at 8 o’clock a black and red hand displays the “alarm set” time, an opening at 8.30 indicates that the alarm function is turned on and as a further safeguard an alarm function power reserve indicator is located between 6 and 8 o’clock, a system so fool-proof, that to get it wrong would be simply ludicrous.

Inside is the automatic Zenith El Primero 4046 Calibre with 50 hours of power reserve, its hand-decoration viewable through the exhibition case back.

The Zenith Pilot Doublematic World Timer measures 45mm across and will be available in two editions – stainless steel or rose gold, both presented on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap.

Like Zenith? Dip into our superb Zenith archive for more.

Popularity: 6% [?]

This is the Zenith El Primero Espada, a new three-handed watch for 2012, styled with the restraint and refinement that have now become the “norm” at the brand’s design department.

The “new” Zenith has shed its excess weight and the “dead wood” in a portfolio bursting with models some of which were not exactly pleasing on the eye.  Now it is back to the classical styling and traditional values which made Zenith special in the first place – you can see it in everything that they do.  Last year’s models were superb, this year seems set to be even better.

The El Primero Espada will no doubt be a crowd-pleaser.  With a 40mm stainless steel case it is perfectly sized, with those broad applied indices and faceted hands it is perfectly styled.  The date window at three o’clock is tucked right at the dial edge, and the cool little Zenith star counterweight, always a charming feature overhangs the seconds hand.

Inside is the automatic in-house Zenith El Primero 4650B with 50 hours of power reserve, the first edition of the historical movement was introduced in 1969 and the brand have been “dining-out”on it ever since – and why not?  it was the first (-best?) high frequency chronograph and this variation beats at 36,000 vph.

The Zenith El Primero Espada will be available in black, white or a very vintage silver dial editions.

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The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Chronograph

The Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20

Popularity: 5% [?]

This is the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20, an aeronautical-styled piece which measures a substantial 57.5mm across.

Perhaps you think that the subdials are a little out of proportion?  That perhaps the design department should have pushed the power reserve just a little bit more to the right?  Actually this dial looks unusual because underneath it beats an unusual calibre.  Unlike many of those huge pilot’s watches out there which contain miniscule movements, securely clipped inside to stop them from rattling around (….. you know who you are…) this one is built around a pocketwatch calibre – the Zenith Calibre 5011, so you would have to say that this one has been upsized for all the right reasons and is completely proportionate.

With a dial this big of course everything is going to be legible – readability which has been increased by the use of chubby hands and numerals, lume-coated against a sleek black dial.  The small seconds subdial eats up almost all of the number 9 and even takes a nibble out of the 8 and 10 too.  The superb power reserve adds a touch of red on black style and symmetry.  On the case are big manly squared-off lugs and a grippy, out-sized crown.

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 will be a limited edition of 250 pieces, the first of which was auctioned for the Smiling Children Charity.

Popularity: 5% [?]

St. Valentine’s Day watch editions.   The perfect excuse for watch manufacturers to “let it rip” in their ladies watch design department, an opportunity to add a bit of bling here and there and a chance to pinkify the portfolio.  Just harmless candy coating eh?  Actually Valentine’s “tribute” watches are becoming quite serious business.

Blancpain, for example present a new “Saint Valentin” piece each year, a sprinkling of girly-ness on the outside, but inside these editions are powered by self-winding calibres with added complications – flyback chronographs, moonphase indications and complete calendar functions.  And there’s more – Frédérique Constant have in their portfolio the Double Heart Beat Collection, some of which have exquisite intertwined hearts on the dial, and of course Hublot have a Big Bang Valentine edition.  All of these are quite appealing, all are contenders, but one piece stands out – not just for its aesthetics – because it too is a beauty, but because it is powered by the perfectly precise El Primero movement, the original – best? automatic chronograph.  This is the Zenith Queen of Love Star Open.

Inside the 37.5mm rounded case, the El Primero 4021 beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accurate time measuring to 1/10th of a second.  A solid bi-directional central rotor, decorated for the occasion produces a respectable power reserve of 50 hours.  A heart-shaped aperture allows a look-see through to the calibre and that little heart fluttering at the cut-away is not just a quaint love token, it serves as a seductive ever-moving small seconds display.  At 3 o’clock is a 30 minute counter and above 6 o’clock  is surely the most loved-up power reserve indicator ever produced with it’s graduating dispay and “Cupidon Love Hand”.  The dial is silvered with guilloché decoration a backdrop for those distinctive, curly-swirly Zenith numerals.  Not syrupy in the slightest, this is simply the most perfect Valentine’s Day/Birthday/Anyday gift ever… especially if she is calibre-conscious.

The piece shown here is in stainless steel, but also available were 18 carat yellow and rose gold editions, and an obligatory diamond-set option, all forming part of the Zenith portfolio of 2006 – missed it? Keep searching…. they’re out there.

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The Hublot Big Bang Valentine’s Day Edition

And something for the lads -the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Chronograph

Popularity: 3% [?]

In the market for a chronograph? One that can accurately split the seconds?  Despite the latest super-chronos unveiled at SIHH 2012, one calibre still stands apart – the El Primero, and the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Chronograph is such a worthy addition to the series, you’d be horologically unbalanced not to consider it.

Zenith introduced the automatic chronograph El Primero calibre in 1969, and although the brand’s design department may have gone aesthetically asunder in the past, most in the industry would agree, Zenith are back where they belong and have produced some of the best classically styled wristwatches unveiled during 2011.  Transgressions, aside the brand have always respected, nurtured and refined the El Primero movement and if your wristwatch is powered by one, wear it proud – that’s a little piece of horological history right there on your wrist.

The Chronomaster 1969 Chronograph continues the heritage, respecting the colours and styling of the 1969 models.  On the dial, midnight blue and anthracite counters rest on a silvered dial, the red sweep seconds chronograph hand has the cool little Zenith star counterweight and faceted hour and minute hands and applied baton hour markers catch the light.  The 42mm stainless steel case has vintage rounded pushers for the functions and no excess weight on the front and no unwanted podge on the sides, this is a neat and tidy case and this is a technical and very well behaved gents sports watch.

Of course the eye is immediately drawn to the cutaway section of the dial.  This is not merely a look-see feature requiring the skills of a dial-maker, but one which requires re-working of the entire calibre by the brand’s Master Watchmakers, otherwise you would be see only the mundane and very dormant base plate.

Inside is the newly developed El Primero Calibre 4061 which beats at a frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 50 hours.  This is the first El Primero Chronograph to feature a dial opening, so as you’d expect particular attention has been given to the detailing and finishing of its components.

The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Chronograph comes presented on a rubber-lined black alligator strap with either pin buckle or optional triple folding clasp.

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The Zenith El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph – the best El Primero Chronograph dial layout? …. you decide.

The Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar – featuring the supremely simple annual calendar module designed by Ludwig Oechslin.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Zenith present the new Elite Captain model for 2010.  The piece forms part of the trimmed down portfolio which sees the brand re-discovering its classical styling and traditional values.  Jean-Frédéric Dufour the CEO of the brand for just over a year had the seemingly mammoth task of slimming down the  collection of models which the brand had amassed in previous years.  He found himself in control of a brand whose collection was not  over-weight, it was obese.  Some of the models, part of the Zenith heritage had to stay, others whose designs were a bit more extreme ……..well let’s wait and see.

The 2010 Elite Captain model measures 40mm, its elegant sunray dial is ever so slightly domed, the  faceted applied indexes slightly shimmering, the whole design completely understated.  If ever there was a fine example of “less is more” then this is it.

Zenith Elite Captain Stainless Steel

The stainless steel model has a subtle red-tipped central second hand whilst the rose gold version features an exquisite blue central second hand with a new date window at the 6 o’clock position for both versions.

The Zenith Elite Captain Rose Gold

At the centre of both models is the  Zenith in-house calibre Elite 670 Automatic movement with 144 components and 27 jewels.   Côtes de Genève features on the oscillating weight viewable through an exhibition caseback.  Considered to be an “entry level” model within the Zenith family, the Elite Captain is surely a new piece which any manufacture would be proud to unveil.

Popularity: 5% [?]

At the recent 2010 SIHH exhibition Zenith present an elegant and understated piece, the Zenith Elite 681 Ultra Thin, released alongside their new stunning El Primero Foudroyante 1/10th Chronograph.

So far 2010 seems to be a year of distinctly classical watches, with pieces such as Jaeger-Le Coultre’s Master Memovox models and IWC’s Portuguese Yacht Club Chronographs appearing as contemporary interpretations of the original models.

Zenith’s Ultra Thin Elite 681 features a pure retro plain dial with faceted hour-markers, elongated sword-shaped hands and a subtle small seconds at 9 o’clock.  The sapphire crystal is slightly domed and the trim watchcase is available in 18 carat rose gold or stainless steel.  Various dial finishes are offered including two limited edition diamond set versions but it would be difficult to surpass the simple silvered style pictured here. The Elite self-winding 681 Calibre is just  3.81mm thick and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Zenith Elite 681 Ultra Thin

Early extra-thin mechanical watch movements were initially hand wound to avoid the added height needed for an oscillating weight and self-winding ultra thin calibres were pioneered by both Piaget and Vacheron Constantin in the 1950’s and 1960’s.  Both of these brands continue to excel in this niche and it is interesting to note that both have also released anniversary tributes to their original extra-thin calibres this year.

Popularity: 8% [?]