2017 GPHG Petite Aiguille Category Finalist
With its unusual concave sapphire crystal, and clear and defined dial features, the Tambour Moon GMT Black by Louis Vuitton is a nicely thought out watch with a number of cool design details.
Along with Bulgari and Hermés, which also have competing watches in the GPHG 2017 Petite Aiguille category, Louis Vuitton are best known and loved for their wide ranges of luxury designer goods, but when it comes to their watch collections, all three have taken a serious approach, acquiring specialist ateliers, and embracing watchmaking for a more discerning customer.
The Tambour Moon GMT takes its name from the gentle but noticeable crescents of the concave sapphire crystal and around the waist of the case, and the effect is striking. A super slim bezel means that most of the face is given over to the dial, and with large white numerals and hands indicating the local time, the second time zone is denoted in yellow, making for a quick and easy reference.
With the inward curvature of the sapphire crystal, the dial seems closer and its features such as the applied numerals on its slanting inner flange more pronounced. It's encased in a 41.5mm stainless steel case, with rubber strap attached to centrally mounted lugs, and overall it has a classy chic yet casually sporty character.
Unlike the other finalists, it does not have an in-house movement (although strictly speaking, the same could possibly be argued about the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph). Instead it uses an ETA self winding calibre; a proven, high quality and reliable engine, although I wonder, with Habring² and their hand made manufacture movement, if ultimately that factor might eliminate the Tambour Moon early on. I think it might.
The Watch Press prediction
No. Although I like it, and it is quite different to any of the other contenders, I don't think that it has enough in comparison to take the category honours.
CASE: Stainless steel
BUCKLE: Pin buckle
MOVEMENT: Hand winding mechanical. Power reserve: 42 h, 28'800 vph
FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Date, Second Time Zone
SIZE: ø 41.5 mm
THICKNESS: 9.9 mm
WATERPROOFNESS: 50 m
PRICE EXCL.VAT: Est. c. CHF 3'882